Green algae problems in 14gl biocube

[Osse77]

Specs:

 

14g biocube

14lbs fiji rock

4lbs live rock biofilter

Stock lights 10-8

 

So my tank was cycled for about a month and stocked with a tomato clown and damsel when I decided to add a second 4lb rock. I thought it was cured enough, but it spiked the nitrates, so I pulled it out and stuck it in a bucket w/ a pump for about 2 weeks until it was ready to put back in. After that I had a strong growth in algae, both the bright green, stringy stuff (as much as 4in) and a fan-shaped red algae a/b 1-2 inches in length. My pH has been running very high sometimes past 8.6/8 so I've been doing water changes every couple of days. The fine green algae keeps coming back very quickly, sometimes within 24hrs on the glass and eventually collects on the water surface. I added 3 more snails to the 2 I already had, but I was wondering if there were any chemicals or buffers I could use to keep that pH level lower and slow down the algae growth? I've slowed feeding down to a pinch of formula 2 once a day, so I don't think I've been overfeeding. Any ideas as to what's growing wrong? Here's a pic I shot with my blackberry.

 

[Pickle010]

What kind of water are you using? Have you checked phosphates?

 

I'd make sure you your water was good (ro/di) make sure the phosphates wheren't out of wack - maybe even slow down the feeding even more. If it get's really out of hand you can turn off your lights for a couple of days. But you still need to find out what's fueling it or it will eventually just come back.

 

OH.. and excuse me....

[Osse77]

It's tap water that's gone through a softener, been primed, and added to instant ocean. I also forgot to mention that it sits in front of my window facing away from the sun, and sometimes when the blinds are open the sun catches the side of the tank, which might explain why the stringy algae is mostly growing on the right side of the tank. Sorry to be a forum noob but what are ro/di?

[smokey_the_bear]

hmm tap water is not ideal

oh

Reverse

Osmosis

/

Distilled

[iFISTmoose]

that your problem, tap water

[Irushin]

Keep it out of the sunlight too.

[Osse77]

So I'm assuming I should used distilled water that I could buy by the gallon at the grocery store, or is there another option?

[E36 328i]

The best water to use is RO/DI water. You can buy this at many fish stores (check your area) by the gallon. This usually runs around 25 cents per gallon. (Which makes it much more affordable versus store bought distilled water). If you have a "water store," or a grocery store near you that sells water by the gallon in one of those weird machines, ask about it and it may be RO/DI water as well. It is imperative that if you buy RO/DI water from someone to ask them if they routinely test for TDS which RO/DI water should have very little to no TDS. TDS stands for total dissolved solids, these solids are inside the water (which feeds things like nuisance algae nutrients and can cause issues on other levels).

 

You can also use distilled water, but it isn't as preferred as it doesn't completely remove a lot of the gunk in the water (some TDS and silicates namely) but it does just as well for many people. It is more expensive, however.

 

The best route would be to buy your own RO/DI machine (they aren't that expensive) and make your own RO/DI water so you know the quality. The units generally save you money depending upon the amount of water you routinely use, if you add up the costs of traveling to Local Fish Store/Grocery store for weekly water changes. You can purchase them online, one of the websites I have seen recommended is http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1MMDI

 

I myself don't have one yet personally because as a college student, it seems hard for me to amass more than $30 at one time. I buy from my freshwater from my local fish store.

[warhol1]

Most LFS sell RO water for about $1-2 per gallon. Don't spend anymore than $2

[Osse77]

I think my biggest problem is the water softeners that my college apt complex uses. Unlike the saltwater mixes like instant ocean, the salt used by the water softeners is loaded with phosphates.

[speedbump]

I think my biggest problem is the water softeners that my college apt complex uses. Unlike the saltwater mixes like instant ocean, the salt used by the water softeners is loaded with phosphates.

 

it might not be "salt". potassium chloride is also used in water softeners. it performs the same task as the sodium chloride, but dose effect those requiring low sodium diets and it wont kill plants.

[Osse77]

in addition to a ro/di water change, will a carbon filter help remove the phosphates as well?

[Osse77]

bump

[disaster999]

first i would stop using tap and use RO/DI water. oh yeah, DI stands for deionized, not distilled. LFS sells it. if LFS isnt easily accessible, distilled water from walmart would work just fine. i dont see how running carbon till help in algae problem

 

like others have suggested, get phosphate under control, manual remove as much as possible. if else fails, put rock in 5gal bucket with pump and heater, seal it up and let it sit in the dark for a month or 2.that should get rid of the algae

[Osse77]

i added a couple snails including a turbo, so the algae is already gone. i was wondering if the carbon would remove the phosphates...which the original question was pretty clear about.

[bdare]

i added a couple snails including a turbo, so the algae is already gone. i was wondering if the carbon would remove the phosphates...which the original question was pretty clear about.

 

Carbon is primarily for removing dissolved organics. If you want to remove phosphate you'll need to get some GFO (granular ferric oxide). It's best used in a reactor like a 2 little fishies phosban reactor.

[johnmaloney]

the red algae is halymenia. your turbo will eat it, really cool looking algae when the specimen is cared for, you might want to save it.