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check valve?


nano427

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Which one is better, the common swing valve or the wye type valve? As in reliability and also not reducing flow too much

 

 

I use a true union swing type check valve and it seems to work fine. I've even had my power go out for 7 hrs and my sump didn't flood (nothing died either!!). The main thing is that you make sure that there a sufficient amount of water above the valve or the seal won't be too great. Whichever type you choose make sure it has no metal parts. If you can avoid using a check valve I would do that too. I couldn't because I didn't think through my sump design well enough.

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What ever you do, do not design the system to need the check valve to seal. All it will take is a small item on the seat, like a small snail, etc and it will leak. Myself, I have never had one work 100% in a saltwater aquarium, and I am very suprised javisman did not have any problems.

 

Kim

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i have a swing type check valve and the damn thing doesnt even seal when the flow is reversed. paid 40 bucks for this junk.

 

could it be not enough pressure to hold the flap closed?

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Whatever kind you use, plumb your system such that there is no chance of catastrophe in the event that both of the following things happen:

 

1. Power failure

2. Check valve failure

 

DO NOT depend on check valves. They are a convenience to make the tank backsiphon a little less during feedings and the like, but NOT to be truly depended on. Place your returns near the water line, and use a sump that can hold all the backsiphon in the event of a power failure.

 

All check valves will eventually fail, even the best money can buy. Just keep that in mind as you set things up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There are no good check valves for aquarium installations, they will all eventually fail, usually at the worst possible moment. Design your returns close to the surface so you get a minimal easily calculated backsiphonage and alway maintain that freeboard in your sump. Nothing replaces an air gap which is what you have once the returns are exposed to atmosphere.

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The best thing is to have a siphon break so a small hole in the return just below the water line in the tank that will suck air if the level drops. that with a check valve has always worked at 100% for me. I used the clear one someone listed above

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Actually the best thing is keeping the returns high enough the nozzle breaks suction with a slight backsiphonage. Drilled holes just like check valves require maintenance and cleaning and even then the odds are against you when it comes to failure. Drilled holes can be defeated by a snail parking over it, a piece of alage or frozen food, a fish sucked up against it, an anemone etc. Same with check valves, all it takes is a grain of sand, it does not have to be a catastrophic failure, even a small trickle will eventually overflow the sump. You could clean your drilled holes or check valve this afternoon and have them fail tonight, its not worth the risk.

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