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PH question


Sergeant-G

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What would cause the PH in a new tank to drop after the cycle I was getting readings of 8.0-8.2 earlier in the week and now im getting 7.8, I did add a CUC this week could that be causing a small drop in PH due to a mini cycle because of an increase in bioload? Just curious is all everything in the tank is doing fine but it just has me watching it and being cautious.

 

thanks,

Casey

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The Propagator

It's completely normal to have a PH swing in a new tank fresh off the cycle.

Just do a water change and see if it buffers back up, if it doesn't then add a little PH buffer but keep an eye on your alkalinity when you add it.

Then test again a couple days later.

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Another reason your ph may be dropping is CO2 buildup. Open up your windows and get some fresh air in the house. It makes a huge difference.

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well ok I am at work as of right now but tuesday when I get off work I will be mixing more water to do my weekly water change, They get done on Wednesdays. Ok with the Co2 buildup now this may be a possibility, I have the NC 24 DX with the hood on and my sump is a 15 gallon I built myself but part of it is covered by acrylic to reduce evap this could be a viable reason because there is only an area that is the size of a 5 gallon tank over the fuge that is open and this is also inside of the stand so there is no airflow.

 

Also with the Ph being at 7.8 would I have a problem if I put a small zoanthid frag in there I am supposed to be getting one shipped prolly this week and with the weather still holding here in ohio (wait ten minutes it will change) I dont want to risk it getting too cold.

 

Thanks,

Casey

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My ph drops from 8.5 to 8.1 every night.

 

When did you test the ph? If the peak is 7.8 then at night it would be dangerously low.

 

What test kit are you using?

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I tested it when the lights were out and it is an API test Kit and I also have an AC JR reef controller with a Ph probe that is calibrated, the ph probe says the ph is around 7.7 the api test kit says its 7.8, the thing is I also have a light on my sump for the macro in there as welland it is on a reverse photo period.

 

Thanks,

Casey

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Ok so I went home and tested my PH quick (lol i love being a medic) it is reading higher than last night 7.75 but it is still not 8.0 I again tested it with the lights off since im battling some algea from a bad batch of top off water. I will do a WC on wednesday and see if that helps.

 

 

Casey

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Ok so I think I may have found a culprit to the low PH. I have a NC 24 DX that is drilled and plumbed for a sump, well the plumbing totally cust out any waterflow in chambers two and three, I am thinking the water in these chambers is becoming oxygen depleted and pulling the PH down, is this possible? I am going to replumb and add a powerhead into chamber three to see if this is a culprie if anyone has any input please chime in.

 

Casey

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I did a water change, and recalibrated the PH probe and now my PH is running 8.0 at night to 8.3 at the peak of the day. My alk is at 7.3

 

 

 

thanks for the help everyone,

 

Casey

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Ok I will keep a close eye on it I am using oceanic salt so that may be the culprit of the low alk. I think I am going to change salt anyway Oceanic is alittle on the expensive side but the calcium is over 500.

 

thanks

 

Casey

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Ok my alk is hanging right around 7.3 I use oceanic salt. I want to get it up has anyone that has used Oceanic ever tested their mag levels I know that effects calcuim and alk but I dont have a test kit for it. I also do a 5 gallon water change on an approx 25 gallon system every week, I use water from a vendor that is RO/softened and filtered, could the softener be the culprit of low alk? I tested the fresh water and the DKH is like 3.

 

thanks

 

Casey

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The Propagator

Yup. I used it for years.

Super high magnesium levels, low alkalinity and the calcium was all over the place.

I switched just recently to Seachems reef salt actually. My corals LOVE the switch I have to say.

Ever thing is more vibrant and healthier then before.

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Great thanks for the info Prop. I did a google search on oceanic salt last night and I see it has quite a bit of heavy metals, it runs in the middle of the pack but still, and I also read where it contains an agent that helps it disolve faster, and it is toxic to corals over time. I am gonna have to look into seachem now, thanks again prop and I will be getting ahold of you soon to get some frags.

 

Casey

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Well Prop im going to switch to seachem salt I just ordered a bucket from DRS and I cant believe the price, I would easily pay twice that price buying it locally, I have seen IO for like 70 dollars a bucket up here, I paid 39 dollars with 9.99 shipping heck you cant beat that. I am hoping it buffers my dkh up, i figured if this salt is good enough for prop I will give it a try. B) thanks

 

Casey

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The Propagator

How much it buffers will be determined by the consumption rate of your tank.

Of course what your starting with helps tremendously too though LOL!

Yeah here in Ohio EVERY body over charges for every thing form crabs to salt.

Its sickening isn't it.

The best place around ( phishy business in Columbus ) is the most expensive even though they do the most volume. A small acan frag is like frigg'n $90.00 bucks there. But nice.

OC salt goes for $69.99 a bucket here, Seachem reef salt goes for around $45.99 ( saltwater solutions)

IO goes for about $55.00 a bucket, Reef crystals go for about the same as OC $69.99. Those are pretty much our only choices here :haha:

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lol ya I make the 1 hour drive south to columbus to get stuff from PB I like the store as for frags he had some small acan frags down there for like 10-20 dollars last time I was in. he is expensive on his frogspawn tho im not paying 70 dollars for a frogspawn. His dry goods arent bad, and I payed less for 30 lbs of LR driving an hour south that I could have gotten here at home from my LFS I think I saved like 20 dollars even after gas. and my LFS charges 4.50 for a turbo snail if that gives you any idea how expensive they are

 

Casey

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I think it was acan lord it was the typical red grey colored acan lord that I normally see but the color was good, it looks almost like the good ole scarlet and grey.

 

Casey

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The Propagator

pftt... how could I not its ALL OVER the place up here.

They treat it like a rare aussie acan around here :lol:

" OOOOhhh I have something special for you ! Look at this acan !! You can only find it this nice here !"

When EVERY ONE has it already :D

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Hey guys, great topic by the way. I have a question. I want to mix my own (Seachem) saltwater as suggested, but I don't have an RO/DI. Would water from watermill (you know them lighthouses) work? I read it is checked and cleaned daily and they use carbon, uv, ro/di, and a few other stages. My LFS uses kent or red sea salt or something. I don't like that the PH is always low when I buy from them. My current water params.

 

Salinity - 1.025

Cal - 390

PH - 7.9

Alk - 14dkh

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I get my water from a supplier here in town I will be doing this till I can get an Ro unit I havent had any problems with their water, I do test it for phosphates tho. As for you parameters your dkh is alittle high imo the normal range you want to try and keep it is between 7-11 dkh, I had to buffer my dkh up some because I am using Oceanic salt, LOL I have a 160gallon bucket of seachem sitting here but i dont want to waste the oceanic. I am not worried about dosing a buffer for my ph/Alk I have learned how to do it and dont mind it now.

 

Casey

 

LOL I know Prop isnt that true

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