masterbuilder Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I am not sure that the MJ1200 behind those holes is going to do anything but re-circulate the water that in the chamber it sits in...I could be wrong, I was once. Link to comment
redfishsc Posted October 2, 2008 Author Share Posted October 2, 2008 I am not sure that the MJ1200 behind those holes is going to do anything but re-circulate the water that in the chamber it sits in...I could be wrong, I was once. The flow through the holes isn't dependent on the direction the MJ is pointing, though I could see how it seems that way. Here is a cheesy cutaway view sketch of what this would look like if you were inside the tank facing the sump. Water is drawn down through the filter media chamber (which gets it's water from the overflow that's cut out at the top). Passes through the powerhead, into the sump chamber. What returns the water into the main tank through the "hole array" is simple gravity and the fact that the water will self-balance so long as the powerhead it's too powerful. The test runs I've made with this show that the holes are more than capable of keeping up with the MJ1200, although I am considering using my smaller 160 gph pump for this purpose and using the MJ1200 for in-tank circulation. . Link to comment
disaster999 Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 I think the OP must have the intake on his circulation pump pulling from the overflow chamber next to the chamber in which it sits. (I.e., the intake of the pump must be drilled through the wall dividing the two chambers of the "sump") Otherwise, there would be no displacement to keep water flowing over the teeth and into the overflow chamber. Is this correct? Its either that, or its magic. (In other words, the pump is pulling water into the chamber in which it sits rather than pushing it out. The effect is the same in the end, but it "looks" deceptive, since you can't see how the pump is plumbed in the pictures.) ahh..that clears everything up...thanks Link to comment
masterbuilder Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Ahhhh...I get it now. I didnt see how you had the intake of the MJ1200 pass through the wall. Should work the way you intended. I love the MJ 900's vs. the 1200's . The flow rate is only slightly lower and the heat produced (wattage) is much much lower. Keep us posted Link to comment
fish_chips Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 you are sick sick man... why do you torture the ones that does not possess the building skills like myself. so when does this rock box go on sale? Link to comment
redfishsc Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 you are sick sick man... why do you torture the ones that does not possess the building skills like myself. so when does this rock box go on sale? Lol, I appreciate your encouragement! At the moment I'm not totally sure the epoxy will be the best adhesive long-term. Part of me is solidly sure based on the tests I did with it. Part of me wants to worry about something and chose this to worry about. I'm also not totally sure the epoxy is reef-safe, though I know people who used this epoxy for various things in their tank, so I know it's got a least *some* credibility. Lastly, I'm not totally sure the Hi-macs acrylic material doesn't contain some goofball mineral that will make my corals suffer. But I am sure I had a blast making it. I am moving into another apartment next week, and once moved, I'm setting this baby up! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 You've got mad Paint skillz Don't worry for now. Once you have everything set up, fill with water and let it run for a week or two. Bust out the test kits and see what you get. It may be basic, but any glaring issues should stand out. Link to comment
redfishsc Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 You've got mad Paint skillz Don't worry for now. Once you have everything set up, fill with water and let it run for a week or two. Bust out the test kits and see what you get. It may be basic, but any glaring issues should stand out. The only chemistry that I'm really worried about would be things our test kits (or at least the ones I can afford) cannot test for, such as any dissolved amino-alkyd type compounds and any compounded metals. I dunno exactly what epoxy (or Hi-macs) is made of, but I believe they are both pretty safe. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Are they rated as food grade? That would be a good sign overall. Edit: after a little digging, it seems pretty good (at least the material). Designed for countertops and lab grade surfaces. Still looking into the epoxy. Link to comment
tmelhiser Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Since I am not even remotely close to a tank builder, I was wondering if there is a structural reason or some other reason that the sump and the tank do not share the same wall? It appears that each of them has their own box created? Very cool idea! I will anxiously follow what happens next! -Travis Link to comment
wahoo_drew Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 I think I read through all the posts and I dont think this got asked... How much does that thing weigh and how many gallons is the display? Link to comment
redfishsc Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Since I am not even remotely close to a tank builder, I was wondering if there is a structural reason or some other reason that the sump and the tank do not share the same wall? It appears that each of them has their own box created? There could be any number of reasons for doing it the way that I did, partly because I was designing the tank as I went and built the tank first. I very well could have built it so that they shared a wall, and it's a good idea. If I ever build another one, I may do that. Actually I do partly regret not putting the sump behind the tank, about 4" wide, and as tall and long as the tank. Then, all you'd see is the front of the tank without this unusual square block sitting beside it (I may hide the sump behind a surround-enclosure kinda like the old console-TV did with the picture tube--- and put a storage cabinet on the right side to match the sump side). How much does that thing weigh and how many gallons is the display? The display tank will hold in the ballpark of 7 gallons. The dimensions are very similar to a standard 10g, except the material is 1/2" thick which throws off the equation a bit. I don't have the exact inside measurements handy to calculate it right now. 7 is pretty close though. The sump will add another 3. By the time I add all the rock and stuff I have, I figure the tank will hold at least 3/4 cup of saltwater Weight? A lot heavier than a standard glass tank but not even close to being heavy enough to worry about. I guess the tank, empty, is around 20 pounds or even less. The stand I'm putting this on is a half-height bookshelf that I built like an army-tank. Link to comment
wahoo_drew Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 Build the stand like an army tank? no way I doubt you would do that... I figured it would way a ton more then only 20 pounds good work Link to comment
redfishsc Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 Yeah, the material looks like solid marble or sandstone, but is only 1/2" acrylic. Not quite as heavy as it would appear, but GRIEF is it heavy when it's a whole countertop going in your kitchen. Link to comment
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