Goonter Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Alright i just tested for alklinity and it is at 7.0, isn't this a little lower than what it is supposed to be? My calcium is also at 400, these have dropped majorly i think since i got chaeto. I am thinking i am not liking the chaeto, sure it may reduce nitrates, but it seems to suck out a lot more than it does good (that i can see in my opinion) i would rather have a clam to do the same function so i may just throw it out. So how do i get these back up to appropriate levels? i am doing a 10% water change tomorrow, but i am currently using distilled water from walmart until i can an appropriate RO/DI system. Should i add two part buffers? i have the ESV comp 1 & 2 alk/cal buffers, i just haven't ever had to use them. This leads to my next question, i have been looking at RO/DI systems, i want one that i can use to drink as well as use for aquariums, i got some people telling me buckeye field supply is very good, and so far i am considering one of their products; however, i was told kent marine ones are just as good and cheapier. So what is a good brand, with great filters, in which i can buy and install for both drinking and aquarium usage. (and not over $180) Thirdly, I know most people say that ph isn't anything to bother with because it should fix itself, but it appears that my is a constant 7.9 and doesn't really fluctuate up to the 8.1-8.3 range it is supposed to, and yes this testing was mid day. So should i buy a ph buffer? thanks for your help in answering my questions. Link to comment
The Propagator Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 1st check your magnesium levels before you blame the poor chaeto for all of it If you have low Magnesium your alk will fade fast and your calcium will suffer as well. BUT chaeto it IS a calcium loving algae so it will use some calcium and some alkalinity as well. The reason we don't see this as a big deal is because it removes things that even most skimmers can't and you don't want. Its a good trade off IMHO because you can always add more calcium and alkalinity, bt you don't want more nasties. I would use your two part system. Its a good idea to keep your alkalinity between 9-11 DKH. Your calcium at 400 is fine. I never worry about dosing until my calcium sees 380. Then I dose to 420 ppm. I know " its always best to have them stable and available as needed " But I never see a problem in doing so, and haven't yet as long as its dripped in. Your alkalinity should be around 9 for a balanced mix of calcium and alk with your calcium reading 425ppm ( So says the reef chemistry calculator any how ) There is a HUGE market full of RO/DI units out there to choose from. With even more opinions on which one is the best. Just remember that 9 out of 10 times you get what you pay for. Buckeye field supply is local to me and they do carry top quality stuff. You should call and speak with Russ. He will give you honest answers and if he isnt the cheapest for your needs he will guide you in your quest with honest answers. Great people over there. Link to comment
bdare Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 One other thing to consider about the cheato and your increased Alk consuption... The cheato is consuming Phosphate. With reduced phosphate in your tank calcification rates are increased. Thus, it's problably NOT the cheato that's sucking up all the Alk, rather your corals are now growing faster because of the reduced amount of PO4 in the tank! This is the same reason that people say, GFO will suck up Alk. This just isn't true. Your Alk drops because calcification rates increase. Link to comment
quixand Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 One other thing to consider about the cheato and your increased Alk consuption... The cheato is consuming Phosphate. With reduced phosphate in your tank calcification rates are increased. Thus, it's problably NOT the cheato that's sucking up all the Alk, rather your corals are now growing faster because of the reduced amount of PO4 in the tank! This is the same reason that people say, GFO will suck up Alk. This just isn't true. Your Alk drops because calcification rates increase. Which is why you put Chaeto in there in the first place. Correct? Link to comment
bdare Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Which is why you put Chaeto in there in the first place. Correct? Yes. The reason Cheato is beneficial is because of it's ability to export phosphate and nitrate. Link to comment
Mischeif Nite Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Until I can afford a good RO/DI setup, I get RO water from my LFS ( they just fill up my 5 gallon bucket). I started off just using the Walmart water, same as you, but I have a lot more piece of mind getting RO from my LFS. Just thought it something you might want to check out...... Link to comment
Goonter Posted September 21, 2008 Author Share Posted September 21, 2008 Until I can afford a good RO/DI setup, I get RO water from my LFS ( they just fill up my 5 gallon bucket). I started off just using the Walmart water, same as you, but I have a lot more piece of mind getting RO from my LFS. Just thought it something you might want to check out...... i used to, until i discovered their water has a TDS over 100. Link to comment
skydive Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 that is some crappy water......the waste line from my RO/DI is around 175 Link to comment
The Propagator Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 yup.. unless you REALLY REALLY trust the source or test the water frequently the safest bet is to just shell out $95.00 for an RO/DI unit of your own. I mean it cost you substantially more then that just for the lighting. Why would you not spend the same on something that will enable you to have better control over the life blood of your aquarium with hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of live stock sitting in it ? Link to comment
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