Which ATO system to buy?

[I2eefer]

I'm going on a couple vacations soon and currently in the market for an ATO system. Other than the JBJ ATO system, can anyone else suggest any other alternatives? Should I buy a complete ATO system (minus the pump of course, but I do already have one) or just DIY an ATO system? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance!

[moneyman6891]

It depends on the amount of money you want to spend.

[sl-atl]

You can't beat the price of a DIY auto top-off system. There are a couple how-to's in the DIY area. I use the air driven version- it's very simple. (See "Wet's" thread.) I'd suggest replacing the batteries before you go on vacation- personal experience! Or, you can use a modifed cell phone charger in place of the batteries.

[d0ughb0y]

My suggestion is to get this

 

http://top-off.com/viewitem.php?it_id=18

 

$28.95 only. I would have bought that if I had seen that before.

 

Don't bother with wet's diy, you will never get the price mentioned. I have tried the diy top off based on air tight containers (like wet's and sun tea jar) and my conclusion is they are not reliable. at best they are good for 5th grade science project curiosity. too many things can go wrong. For instance, on sun tea jar diy, if the jar loses vacuum, then all the freshwater will empty out into your tank. not good.

 

if you choose to diy, the most expensive part is going to be the float switch. I don't know why the price is so high on these, I think they should cost like $2. I found one on ebay for $7.49 shipped a while back, but I think the seller is gone. If you calculate your DIY parts (including pump) will cost you more than $30, then I think you are better off getting the top off mini for $28.95 plus the price of a pump.

 

The most basic diy is simply wiring the float switch in series with a water pump (that's what I have, $7.49 switch + $7 harbor freight submersible pump). and make sure you hang the float switch out of reach of snails. the top off mini is snail proof.

 

For water pump, you can get this

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~cat...ory~FIPHCP.html

 

it can run dry for 30 days according to the description. If you can make sure your reservoir is large enough that you can refill it before it runs dry using your existing pump, then you don't need thsi pump.

I think auto top off is indispensable part of reef tank, and it does not have to cost an arm and a leg to get one.

 

good luck and make sure you test it well before you go on vacation.

[sl-atl]

...The most basic diy is simply wiring the float switch in series with a water pump (that's what I have, $7.49 switch + $7 harbor freight submersible pump). and make sure you hang the float switch out of reach of snails. the top off mini is snail proof.

 

Where did you find a float switch that can be wired in-line with a pump? It would be helpful if you could post that product link also for anyone who wants to try this. All of the switches I have seen operate on low voltage, DC and would present a fire and shock hazard if someone were to wire them in series with an AC line voltage device like a pump. For those switches, they would need to be used in conjunction with a relay to control the line voltage source.

 

BTW, Wet's air driven top-off design is fail-safe. The water is located below the tank, and the air pressure pushes the water up out of the holding bottle so if anything goes wrong the water stays where it is. I definitely agree with you about gravity driven designs!

[bdare]

Why NOT get the JBJ? I have one and LOVE it. Works like a champ. The Tunze is pretty cool, but I don't like the fact it uses suction cups.

[d0ughb0y]

Where did you find a float switch that can be wired in-line with a pump? It would be helpful if you could post that product link also for anyone who wants to try this. All of the switches I have seen operate on low voltage, DC and would present a fire and shock hazard if someone were to wire them in series with an AC line voltage device like a pump. For those switches, they would need to be used in conjunction with a relay to control the line voltage source.

 

BTW, Wet's air driven top-off design is fail-safe. The water is located below the tank, and the air pressure pushes the water up out of the holding bottle so if anything goes wrong the water stays where it is. I definitely agree with you about gravity driven designs!

 

Last I checked, the seller does not sell the switch on ebay anymore. I found the source from another NR post. The original poster wired the switch in series with the pump also, though his is still based on air tight container. Any float switch rated over the line voltage and pump current rating will work, which is pretty much all float switches I have seen and will not cause a fire or shock hazard. Are you sure the float switches you see are for low voltage DC only? float switches are sealed because they are meant to be used submerged. If it is true that it will cause a shoick hazard, then you should not put in your power head into the water as well, because it is operating at line voltage.

 

any air tight design adds another point of failure (will not work if bottle is not air tight). You have to remember to change the battery of the battery powered air pump if you do not use an AC adapter (another point of failure) Not to mention, it is a PITA to refill the water and it keeps on pumping water until pressure equalizes after the switch has turned off. reliability goes down with more points of failure added. just keep it simple. I don't think I have seen any commercial ATO based on air tight container. I think the top off mini I provided in the link in my previous post is simply the switch wired in series with an extension cord.

[bugbabe623]

Ok I'm going to sound like a noob but does the JBJ come with every thing I need except the water container? (sorry to steal your thread I'm debating about which one to get too) Or is there something else to buy? That goes for the one d0ughb0y is talking about too that is 28. I know I sound like a noob but the whole ATO thing is very confusing, but i know I want/need one

[d0ughb0y]

I think there were a few people who got bad jbj ato unit.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=163103&hl=

 

 

you also need to add a pump.

[CorvetteJoe]

I was planning on getting this soon.

http://www.purelyh2o.com/catalog/Automated...it-p-16224.html

 

I just ordered all new stuff for my RODI unit, customer service seems to be good so far, well see how long it takes for my stuff to get here. I ordered new membrane, filters etc and a dual TDS meter.

[SPS20]

Why NOT get the JBJ? I have one and LOVE it. Works like a champ. The Tunze is pretty cool, but I don't like the fact it uses suction cups.

 

I use an osmolator by tunze, and it doesn't employ a single suction cup. It's all clamp-on brackets, very secure.

 

If you want the most reliable unit out there, get a Tunze Osmolator, but expect it to be expensive relative to the other options. The sensor has no moving parts, can so it cannot get stuck. I love mine.

[vangvace]

wow... I really like that tunze unit

[badbread]

I had some issue's with my JBJ, went with a Tunze and it works AWESOME. Not sure about the suction cup thing, my tunze doesn't use suction cups.

[Tanque Verde]

I had some issue's with my JBJ, went with a Tunze and it works AWESOME. Not sure about the suction cup thing, my tunze doesn't use suction cups.

many of the tsunami units use suction cups. maybe that's the confusion.

 

I love my Tunze. There was a guy a while back selling them below market NIB on ebay, but I don't know if he's still there.

[bdare]

Tunze is the best because of the laser deal, but my JBJ has worked flawless for me if you don't want to spend the money.

[gulfsurfer101]

Just go to youtube and type in diy auto top off. There's lot of good vids on top off's, sump and fuge's and lots of other helpful stuff on there. If you already have the pump the switch is about 20 bucks at lowes or homedepot and you probably already have a small extention cord to fisnish it. I will be doing one later on when I get off my lazy buttt to go pick one up.

[SPS20]

Tunze is the best because of the laser deal, but my JBJ has worked flawless for me if you don't want to spend the money.

 

The Tunze unit really is ridiculously accurate. I can take enough water to do a test out of the tank and the damn thing will click on. It's amazingly sensitive, and yet it won't get turned on and off by turbulence in my sump. I really think other companies need to start moving to optical level sensors, they are SO much better than float switches.

[YeahitsK]

The Tunze unit really is ridiculously accurate. I can take enough water to do a test out of the tank and the damn thing will click on. It's amazingly sensitive, and yet it won't get turned on and off by turbulence in my sump. I really think other companies need to start moving to optical level sensors, they are SO much better than float switches.

 

How do you do your water changes with such a sensitive system? I'm going to be installing my osmolator shortly and I would assume that after the water change you want the water level in the return pump chamber to be right at the sensor. It seems like that would be difficult to get right depending on whether or not you leave the return pump on during the water change. Where do you remove water from and how do you add it back? Am I overcomplicating things here?

[Tanque Verde]

How do you do your water changes with such a sensitive system? I'm going to be installing my osmolator shortly and I would assume that after the water change you want the water level in the return pump chamber to be right at the sensor. It seems like that would be difficult to get right depending on whether or not you leave the return pump on during the water change. Where do you remove water from and how do you add it back? Am I overcomplicating things here?

 

I keep one powerstrip dedicated to pumps, powerheads, and my tunze osmolator. When it's time to do I water change, I just flip the switch on that strip.

[SPS20]

How do you do your water changes with such a sensitive system? I'm going to be installing my osmolator shortly and I would assume that after the water change you want the water level in the return pump chamber to be right at the sensor. It seems like that would be difficult to get right depending on whether or not you leave the return pump on during the water change. Where do you remove water from and how do you add it back? Am I overcomplicating things here?

 

I just pull the power plug out of my osmolator tight before a water change, and plug it back in afterwards. I have a line drawn on the outer wall of my sump which indicates where the osmolator is set. I just make sure that the water level is at the line after my water change before I plug the osmolator back in.

 

As for how I do water changes, I just kill the return pump, siphon out 5 gallons, dump the new water in, and turn the pumps back on. It takes me 3 minutes to do a water change, easy as pie.

[YeahitsK]

Yeah, I know the second part is pretty easy but I just wondered how people were getting the water level right for the osmolator. As long as the water level in the sump doesn't change too much from turning off the return pump or removing 5 gallons it should be pretty simple. I've never had an external sump before, can you tell?

[Break]

My suggestion is to get this

 

http://top-off.com/viewitem.php?it_id=18

 

$28.95 only. I would have bought that if I had seen that before.

 

Anyone actually tried using one of these?

[smedge]

Yeah, I know the second part is pretty easy but I just wondered how people were getting the water level right for the osmolator. As long as the water level in the sump doesn't change too much from turning off the return pump or removing 5 gallons it should be pretty simple. I've never had an external sump before, can you tell?

 

It's easier than you would think to get close enough. I just add water back to the system till it rises enough to visibly touch the electronic eye, then i plug the tunze back in.

 

I too have had it click on when I took out a few mLs to test with.

 

The tunze is more expensive but you get what you pay for in this case.

[Tanque Verde]

Yeah, I know the second part is pretty easy but I just wondered how people were getting the water level right for the osmolator. As long as the water level in the sump doesn't change too much from turning off the return pump or removing 5 gallons it should be pretty simple. I've never had an external sump before, can you tell?

 

oh. I siphon out my water into a pitcher that's marked for volume. then I replace it with the same quantity, plus a bit more for the water that comes out with my filter floss.

[martiniReef]

if you are planning on using it long term its good to get a good one like the JBJ, Kent or electronic fill switch ones. if you are just using it for a few days you can do it like the Solana with a hard plastic bottle (poland spring) and fill it up. prop it at the right height that you need and there you go. a totally free and environment friendly ATO!

 

of course there are better ways to do this but i have done this for like every tank i ever had at one point or another.