Christo Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 i have B ionic 2 part solution, im currently trying to figure out how much my corals are using each day, i tested for alk on monday which sat at 8.5, and ca which was at 325, im going to test again today and friday to see the trend and base my decision on that, sothat i can get a rough idea of how much b-ionic i should be adding each day. but before i test again today i wanted to ask the following: 1) should i first get my ca up too the 400-420ppm (as far as ive heard "optimal" range) before i continue my testing? 2) if my alk is sitting at 8.5 which is right in the middle of the 7-10dkh range then how do i raise calcium without raising alk? do i add the calcium part only first to get to 400-420ppm? 3) Do corals remove calcium to the point that there is no calcium left? as in, is it possible for corals to remove all calcium? or does it get harder to remove calcium as the calcium ppm drops(im going to assume that this is probably how it works)? --> if this is the case then i asume i need to get my ca concentration up to 420 before i start the testing right? thanks guys Link to comment
Pship Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 This is a good read for the answer to question number two. Read the out of balance piece it is about 3/4 down the page. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-05/...ature/index.php Link to comment
EtOH_is_good Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 i would start by checking what your calc, alk and mg levels of new salt water mix would be. if they are good, do a water change. then get your calc levels up, i use seachem reef advantage. Link to comment
HecticDialectics Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 1. Yes. Get your calc/alk levels right first, then keep a chart of the usage over a few days. Readjust the levels. Keep a chart over a few more days. Average all the results. Dose that much per day/week. 2. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm 3. I think it's more of an exponential thing, but if the calc gets too low, they'll just start dyin'... someone else will have to help with exact biology of it all Either way, you definitely should start with optimal levels... Link to comment
SPS20 Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 i have B ionic 2 part solution, im currently trying to figure out how much my corals are using each day, i tested for alk on monday which sat at 8.5, and ca which was at 325, im going to test again today and friday to see the trend and base my decision on that, sothat i can get a rough idea of how much b-ionic i should be adding each day. but before i test again today i wanted to ask the following: 1) should i first get my ca up too the 400-420ppm (as far as ive heard "optimal" range) before i continue my testing? 2) if my alk is sitting at 8.5 which is right in the middle of the 7-10dkh range then how do i raise calcium without raising alk? do i add the calcium part only first to get to 400-420ppm? 3) Do corals remove calcium to the point that there is no calcium left? as in, is it possible for corals to remove all calcium? or does it get harder to remove calcium as the calcium ppm drops(im going to assume that this is probably how it works)? --> if this is the case then i asume i need to get my ca concentration up to 420 before i start the testing right? thanks guys 1) Get your Ca+ up to 400-420 first, then start measuring consumption. Your corals will use it at a rate affected by total concentrations. In other words, if you want an accurate estimate of how much it will take to maintain a given level, you should start off at that level or else you will get skewed results. 2) Water changes, and calcium chloride. You could just add the calcium half of the B-Ionic, but I would suggest that you make any change gradually, over the course of a week or two rather than all at once. 3) Your corals will die long before you reach zero. Not only that, but your pH will go haywire once you start getting very low. Link to comment
Christo Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Thanks for the speedy replies guys, i think what ill do is: 1) checking the ca+ and alk concentrations of my premixed saltwater 1.1) dose until the correct concentrations of ca and alk are reached 2) do 20% water change 2 days in a row 3) adjust the new concentrations to correct amounts in the display tank 4) start my testing thereafter and take the average of the ca usage per day 5) dose every day Sounds good? Thanks again! Link to comment
EtOH_is_good Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 sounds good. didn't see what size of your tank, but going slow on getting your calc in line is safer than jacking it up real quick. Link to comment
Christo Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 tank is a 46, plus 10 gal sump i added 50ml each (c-balance 2 part) yesterday which bumped alk to 8 (from 6.5) and cal to 350 from 312.5, today i added another 50ml's and im guessing ill be sitting at 9.5 - 10 alk and 385ish for cal, taking it slow right now so we'll see Link to comment
supernip Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 most people will say 400. I think the ocean varies from 350-420. I might just be making those numbers up though. Great Rose, is it yours? Link to comment
Christo Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 most people will say 400. I think the ocean varies from 350-420. I might just be making those numbers up though. Great Rose, is it yours? Yes it is its split 3 times since i bought it and and ive made what i paid for it twice over now, in only about a year and a half especially here in vancouver, rose bta's in short supply they go for around 90-120 back when i bought it i got it for $65 and it was like 6inches across at that point Link to comment
EtOH_is_good Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 no fair. that's a jumbo nano tank be careful with the alk, there's no real benefit of keeping it above 8. you may want to add calc suppliments in addition to your 2 part solution, so your alk levels don't get so screwy. also, time to start reading more in depth about what levels you want to maintain. Link to comment
Christo Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 okay, so now im sitting at a little bit high 430 ca and 9.5 dkh, im going to monitor it now for the next two weeks, in addition to my 20% water change every two weeks, my ph is at 8.2 so i think its looking good to start the monitoring, ill probably test every two days Link to comment
EtOH_is_good Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 i'd almost be happy with those numbers. try to keep them for a couple days and then do a usage test. Link to comment
MrAnderson Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 3) Do corals remove calcium to the point that there is no calcium left? as in, is it possible for corals to remove all calcium? or does it get harder to remove calcium as the calcium ppm drops(im going to assume that this is probably how it works)? no, if you have aragonite substrate and live rock it's not possible for calcium to reach zero. the carbonate/Ca equilibrium constant will drive dissolution of calcium from the solid form. Link to comment
dsoz Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 especially here in vancouver, Vancouver, WA, or Vancouver BC? I am only asking because I am near Portland, OR which is close to Vancouver WA, then we would be neighbors. Otherwise, we are much further neighbors. dsoz Link to comment
The Propagator Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 How much calcium is actually needed in your system is completely dependent of what species of coral your keeping. A lot of LPS or a Lot of sps will need more ( they suck it up fairly fast ), a tank full of softies will be just as happy with 380 as they would 420. Typically you will see your alkalinity being used up more rapidly then your calcium. If you notice this don't be to alarmed. You can add one with out the other ( calcium or alkalinity ) to raise one or the other to the desired level, or to balance with no problems. Since your dosing B-ionic I suggest dosing the alkalinity part after lights out for the evening as it significantly but temporarily raises your PH. When the tank lights are off the tanks PH naturally lowers so dosing your B-ionic alkalinity would be easier on your inhabitants doing so after lights out IMHO. Link to comment
Christo Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 okay, cool. i have heard about the ph drop at night but wasnt to sure, never the less i have been dosing at night just in case (thought it would be better over all). anyway dsoz im in vancouver bc. unfortunately lol sometimes i wish i was in US so i wouldnt have to pay import duties and internation shipping rates AND broker fees, freeking ridiculous. anyhow my water change is comin up im thinking ill measure ca and alk before and after the water change to see how it is affected, i use instant ocean salt mix so from what ive heard the Ca concentration is lower in IO than in some other brands, so im guessing my alk/calc concentration will drop significantly. What i could do is mix up my fresh water with my C-Balance (sorry i got names mixed up before, (was reading about b-ionic just out of curiosity and ended up miximg the names up lol) but it is a two part product anyway... same thing) and raise the alk/calc concentration before i add it to my tank.... what do you guys think? only prob i see with this is if my calc/alk concentrations get out of whack and they need to be lowered i wouldnt really have water with the capacity to lower the concentrations significantly. Link to comment
The Propagator Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Now make sure you read the directions on what ever alkalinity buffering product your using carefully. Some raise PH temporarily like B- Ionic, some temporarily lower it and should be dosed with lights on. (C-balance part B ( alkalinity) temporarily raises your PH as well ) I find Oceanic to salt mix to work best for me. I have never had a calcium, or alkalinity issue with it and PH is always around 8.2 minimum. Link to comment
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