Best filtration system

[peppermint22]

Hi guys. I've got a 6 gallon nano running for over a month already and I just discovered that I have a huge 30 gallon aquarium that has been hiding somewhere. So, (naturally) my mind gets filled with "naughty" thoughts and I plan to transfer everything from my 6 gallon to my 30 gallon aquarium.

 

Question is: what's the best filtration system? I've read quite a lot of books that suggest undergravel filtration as the best sort of filtration for marine aquariums. I plan to keep only 2 clowns or damsels in the huge aquarium. Any ideas?

 

Oh, and what's a refugium?

[Crakeur]

best filtration system is live rock and live sand. bar none

[peppermint22]

Speaking about live rock, I was just wondering whether this would do in a 30 gallon aquarium: 2 powerheads, a layer of live sand and a few pounds of live rocks. (Bear in mind that I'm only keeping 2 fish that will grow no longer than 5cm, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp and 1 trochus snail). Then what about that plastic plate and the air-lift? Should I just forget about 'em???

[Crakeur]

I would avoid the undergravel system.

 

a few pounds of live rock might not be enough.

 

liverock filtration article:

http://www.nano-reef.com/articles/?article=3

[fishbabies]

A plenum combined with LR and LS might be what you (peppermint 22) are thinking of. This is also referred to as the Monaco System: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sep...002/feature.htm

 

These are generally used in much larger reef setups that employ only LR and LS as filtration.

 

Regular plastic undergravel filters attached to powerheads are waste and nutrient traps = high nitrates and algae. a plenum can be constructed from a cheap plastic UGF plate though......but i doubt you would need one.

[peppermint22]

Thanks guys for ur advice! I've decided what method to use. I'll use natural filtration method. So for a 27 gallon tank with dimensions (L X W X H) 76.5 X 38.5 X 37.5cm, is 1 powerhead enough, and how many pounds of LR do u think I need?

[reefmouse1]

Peppermint22 below is my new 29 gal setup, Im still cycling with uncured live rock so I have no live stock yet. When Im ready for corals I will bump up my lighting a bit more, maybe another 65 watt pc in 10k instead of the NO lights.

[seabass]

I prefer to avoid deep sand beds. They work, but they can create toxic substances :x that may or may not effect your tank (personally, I'm not willing to take the risk). I feel that an inch to an inch and a half of sand is good (20 to 30 pounds for your tank). 45 pounds of LR would also be good for a 30-gallon tank.

 

In addition, (but optionally) you could also add a HOB power filter (running SeaGel in a media bag instead of the cartridges). You could even run a skimmer (testing and dosing are usually needed if you decide to use a skimmer).

[cboy]

seabass-

in deep sand beds, couldnt you use snails and hermits to losen it so it recieves water flow and get rid of the toxic subs?

[seabass]

I feel that the proper use of a DSB can be a useful tool to an experienced reef keeper, but I prefer a shallow sand bed (1 to 1.5 inches deep) with detritivores and micro-invertebrates. Cerith snails, Nassarius snails, and Scarlet Reef hermits can also be used to help oxygenate the upper layers of the bed.

 

Hydrogen sulphide is said to be a byproduct of DSBs, which you don’t want in your tank. In addition to this risk, it has also said that DSBs absorb nutrients and stop working when they become saturated (or even leach these nutrients back). Others say that they are not as effective in small tanks.

 

Anaerobic bacteria in the deeper oxygen depleted areas of the sand bed (or LR) can convert nitrates to nitrogen. However, oxygenating these areas will prevent these bacteria colonies from forming.

________________

Edited by seabass: You shouldn't stir the sand bed yourself; leave that to your sand sifting critters.

 

You’ll find plenty of people on this site that have successfully reduced nitrates with DSBs for years without any problems at all. I’ve read various books and posts and have determined that there is more to learn about the effects of keeping a DSB.

 

Either with or without a DSB, you should have a good population of critters (worms, snails, crabs…) to clean up your sand bed and help oxygenate the upper layers. Without suitable critters for your sand, excess nutrients become compost and could result in algae blooms.

 

Keep in mind that there is less tolerance for error in a nano reef and that they do take up valuable space and water volume. Removal of excess nitrates can be accomplished with partial water changes, which provides the additional benefit of replenishing buffers and trace elements. However, due to special feeding requirements of some inhabitants, some of our tanks produce more nitrates than typical weekly water changes can remove. For these cases, a refugium and/or a protein skimmer will assist in keeping nutrient levels in check.

[cboy]

Srry about this stoopid sounding question, but what is a DSB? And could you use blu hermits as well as the scarelt hermits?

[seabass]

No problem; a DSB (deep sand bed) is a sand bed that is deep enough to support anaerobic bacteria. The depth at which this happens depends on things like sand particle size and sand sifting critters. Typically you read about deep sand beds being 3 to 6 inches deep; however, depending on the size of your sand particles, de-nitrification can occur in sand beds as shallow as an inch and a half.

 

Yes, Blue Leg Hermits and Scarlet Reef Hermits are the two most popular reef safe hermit crabs and can be kept in the same reef tank (just put some extra shells in your tank for them to grow into).