Teach me about Metal Halides

[FamousGuy]

I know all about PC's but for future reference:

 

-how many different bases are available and what is the -best? Say you get a standard 175w base, does that mean you can run any standard base bulb in it, no matter what company makes the bulb?

-From what i've seen they come in 10000k and under, you cant get them in actinic right?

-how hot do they really get?  Do you absolutely need a fan, and do you need to put glass between then and the water like pc's?  Thanks!

[Metznreef]

mh bulbs go up tp 20000k but there are no actinics. there is enough bue in the 20000k bulbs so you don't really need actinics. if you get lower k bulbs thoough you need to have pc or vho actinic supplements.

[gabe3eb]

Fans are neccesary because those bulbs get hella hot! NO joke, and i think for a 175 watt bulb you will be using a mogul balast only pretty much. You can get Halide bulbs in like 20K 15K and 12K and then down from 10... If you want clams the lower spectrum bulbs are the best, 6500K, but the 10K is a full spectrum with actinic supplements being optional,,, hth,

gaber

[Metznreef]

dp clams like the more yeallow light provided by the lower spectrums? do you have to supplement the lower spectrums with actinics if you have clams?

[quiksilver5768]

You dont HAVE TO supplement actinics if you get anything under 20,000K. 12,000K is usually the borderline. Its mainly how it looks...if your tank looks yellow with say a 10,000K bulb than yes, you will need to supplement pc, vho, or no actinics. Not all 10,000K MH bulbs look the same either. Each brand is different. I suggest going with a 12,000K Aqualine or a 15,000K Xanium. Both of those bulbs look very nice and have a good tint of blue which still give off the actinic effect. The 15,000K is a bit more blue than the 12,000K though.

 

P.S - IMO, the 15,000K looks better...gives off a nicer reflection on the water and looks more like ocean sun...

[Dave ESPI]

PFFFFFFTTT... get a Prizim Pendant with a 250 watt Iwasaki 6700 K with 2 x 32 watt PC actinics. Swap one of the actinics for a smartlamp bulb and run the halide on a timer for 6-9 hours. Keep the pc on for 20 hours a day, see my pic of the 37 gal reef in POST YOUR PICS. and oh yeah my mugh shot is there too ( Im the scary dude)

AS FAR AS YOUR COMMENT "TEACH ME ABOUT HALIDES" dude do some reading and check FAQ's on lighting pages www.championlighting.com is a place to start.

also www.Drsfostersmith.com look under ..... uhhhhh lighting   ( dauh. LOL J/K)

[Lunchbucket]

20hr FOR ACTINICS???!!!  when the hell in nature do corals see 20hr of light??  they don't right?  not saying it would hurt them but why not try to mimic it ia little more.  i would say MH for about 10hrs and actinics 12-14 max.

 

no they don't get so how you HAVE To have a fan.  only if your tank heats up too much.  no UV glass is required to be put on unless they are HQI mh's

 

what size tank is it (l x w x h) what do you plan on keeping etc.  

 

Lunchbucket

[Guest AbSoluTc]

Even bulbs at 20k need supplimentation.  Now alot of people do add any because it would bake it too blue for most users.  However, always remember - its not for YOU.  It's for your corals!

[NanoReefer53]

Fan's arn't needed. always. I use to keep a fan on top of my tank under a 175w MH but the temperature stayed under 80 degrees always. I might need it though when I hook up a 250w this thursday. IMO, i would go for a 10k with actinic supplements. The iwasaki 65k is by far the brightest and will grow your light luvin corals like mad, but you'll need tons of actinic to get the crisp white look or even a tint of blue.

 

Bases:

There are different kinds of bases. There's the standard medium mogul base. They're the kind that you screw incandescent bulbs into. This base will not fit any MH bulb other than the 70w and 150w moguls. Anything like 175w-400w use a different mogul base which is a lot bigger. All of these of course will need to be made out of somethin tough like ceramic to withstand the heat.