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The pitfall of LED lighting?


Gomer

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Excitation wavelength / Emission wavelength -- protein name

Blue Fluorescent Proteins

383 / 445 -- EBFP

399 / 511 -- Sapphire

399 / 511 -- T-Sapphire

Cyan Fluorescent Proteins

439 / 476 -- ECFP

433 / 475 -- mCFP

433 / 475 -- Cerulean

435 / 477 -- CyPet

458 / 489 -- AmCyan1

472 / 495 -- Midori-Ishi Cyan

462 / 492 -- mTFP1 (Teal)

Green Fluorescent Proteins

484 / 507 -- EGFP

480 / 505 -- AcGFP

482 / 502 -- TurboGFP

487 / 509 -- Emerald

492 / 505 -- Azami Green

493 / 505 -- ZsGreen

Yellow Fluorescent Proteins

514 / 527 -- EYFP

514 / 527 -- Topaz

515 / 528 -- Venus

516 / 529 -- mCitrine

517 / 530 -- YPet

525 / 537 -- PhiYFP

529 / 539 -- ZsYellow1

540 / 553 -- mBanana

Orange and Red Fluorescent Proteins

548 / 559 -- Kusabira Orange

548 / 562 -- mOrange

554 / 581 -- dTomato

554 / 581 -- dTomato-Tandem

558 / 583 -- DsRed

563 / 582 -- DsRed2

555 / 584 -- DsRed-Express (T1)

556 / 586 -- DsRed-Monomer

568 / 585 -- mTangerine

574 / 596 -- mStrawberry

576 / 592 -- AsRed2

584 / 607 -- mRFP1

584 / 610 -- JRed

587 / 610 -- mCherry

588 / 618 -- HcRed1

598 / 625 -- mRaspberry

590 / 637 -- HcRed-Tandem

590 / 649 -- mPlum

595 / 655 -- AQ143

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So what's the verdict on which LEDs to get for best viewing spectrum, white, blue, cyan and a little red?

 

White is still the best, BUT you need to fill in the inadequacies. If it was me, I would have a tank with 12 white, 4 royal blue, 4 UV (~400-420) 1 green and test out t see how a red works.

 

I have a 6pack 700mA cree already. I am tempted to order those UV emitters and stack 6 of them with my 350mA driver. I wonder if the thermal plug is electrically isolated. I know it isn't on the Luxeon bare emitters.

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thermal plug? u mean the thermal base of the LED?

they should be right?

 

i want to test it out too

 

i got 10 white, 4 blue, 1 UV, one RBG. i'll probably use the red just to bring out the red parts of coral.

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thermal plug? u mean the thermal base of the LED?

they should be right?

 

i want to test it out too

 

i got 10 white, 4 blue, 1 UV, one RBG. i'll probably use the red just to bring out the red parts of coral.

 

Yes the base

sku_4334_2_small.jpg

 

Take the Luxeons for example. Bare emitters, while not having the positive or negative leads directly died to the base, ARE electrically connected through a type of diode arrangement. This is why in the fine print, luxeon tells you to electrically isolate emitter bases.

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Interesting discussion guys.

 

In regards to the red LEDs, I had thought the the somewhat selective emmisions of LEDs, and as a result the lack of red, was of benefit because it won't excite the growth of plant life, and problematic algae. It would be great for a fuge, but could problems arise from having it in a display setting? I guess the problem would be from having too much red saturation, but what levels would be needed to pick out the colors in the corals without getting to a detrimental level? Looks like some experimenting is needed.

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dam i misread that...i thought they said they are electrically isolated...

 

i hope my cree LEDs are....and im kinda skeptical about the Edison LEDs...

thats y i was having a hard time wiring my old K2 luxeon leds...

 

i was unsure about the red LEDs too in your display.

im going to do 1w just for color

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As long as you snip the corners of the cree emitter you'll be fine.

 

Also, any LED mounted to those little boards will be isolated.

 

Not sure about the edison

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Hi CW

 

The Cree LEDs have electically isolated thermal pads so you should not have a problem with them. In their data sheet it say "electically neutral thermal path"

 

Cheers

NRG

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Damn all this is over my head, but I'll try and catchup to your tech lingo. If possible can you use more laymen's terms for people who are just getting into making LED arrays. If there is no easier way of explaining things, oh well, I'll just handicap it.

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I am looking to add actinics to my tank. I am toying with the thought of an array of LEDs instead of the two 20 Watt HO T5 tubes I have been planning. How many of the high output LEDs would it take to be the same output? I have used K2 emitters (a single royal blue is my moon light). Are there others (Cree)?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

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Unfortunately, putting some conversations in layman's terms is highly conterproductive. If there is a term you do not know, just ask or wiki it.

 

 

Actinics: Cree has Royal blues right now which should rock without optics. They are ~450nm. However, they will not completely replace an actinic. They will give a nice blue/purple and some good fluorescing, but lack the deeper 400-430 region where you get other nice fluorescing that some actinic PCs can give you.

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Unfortunately, putting some conversations in layman's terms is highly conterproductive. If there is a term you do not know, just ask or wiki it.

 

 

Actinics: Cree has Royal blues right now which should rock without optics. They are ~450nm. However, they will not completely replace an actinic. They will give a nice blue/purple and some good fluorescing, but lack the deeper 400-430 region where you get other nice fluorescing that some actinic PCs can give you.

Thanks for the reply Gomer. Right now I have a 175w 15K Iwasaki in a lumenarc reflector. For the moon light I simply drilled the center of the lumenarc and inserted the K2 for moon light. Essentially, I am using the lumenarc reflector with the K2. It works well. I would consider doing the same thing for the actinic if I can find the right leds. The only actinic that I have found was a 460nm from current. The tubes have to be less than 20". Do you have a link for the Crees?

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