Mikec0078 Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 I'm ready to see some pics of this. It sounds like a great idea, and maybe cost effective in the long run?! How do you control the temperature (Kelvin rating) of the LED's though? From what I have read about the Solaris units, they have almost unfettered configurations of brightness and color.... thats just crazy. I want one Link to comment
lanceleaderx Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 i wouldnt recommend using thos LED drivers since their really not for this type of project.basically its a stabilized 12v DC power supply made for things that take exactly 12v. 3 LEDs x 3.5v = 10.5 total v and it needs ~2 v higher than total v input -_+ too bad Link to comment
Gomer Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 LEDs can save you more power. But you need to look at the total efficiency of both systems. There are numerous losses that you need to account for. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 i tried using 4 LEDs in series with a 12v LED driver but the LEDs just gave out...u need constant current drivers. aka voltage switching regulators. for sure its better in the long run. also its easy to control the temperature (Kelvin rating). if u like a deep blue look use 60%-80% more blue LEDs then white. im stick with 40%-50% blue cuz i like the crisp white looking with a bit of blue shimmers. deep blue is overrated to me... Link to comment
The Propagator Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 PHOTOS !!!!!!! We want PHOTOS !!!! Link to comment
Gomer Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 i tried using 4 LEDs in series with a 12v LED driver but the LEDs just gave out...u need constant current drivers. aka voltage switching regulators. for sure its better in the long run. also its easy to control the temperature (Kelvin rating). if u like a deep blue look use 60%-80% more blue LEDs then white. im stick with 40%-50% blue cuz i like the crisp white looking with a bit of blue shimmers. deep blue is overrated to me... Which is why I have never driven with a voltage source I always use a constant current driver, or a constant voltage source modified for constant current. Never had a SINGLE LED burn out. I am just about convinced at expanding my 12 LED project to 25 (4 strings of 6 plus a single for nightlight which also drives an LED sump light of maybe 3-4 of my older K2s. for the 25, I plan on using 16x white, 5 royal blue @450nm(1 on 24/7) and 4x blue @465 nm. now I just need to fundraise for another tank LOL anf figure out how I am going to pay for stocking it LOL Link to comment
TJ_Burton Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 PHOTOS !!!!!!!We want PHOTOS !!!! +1 Link to comment
lanceleaderx Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 to coldwaters, if you use Highly Efficient LED Circuit Board (4V-18V) then what power input that you going to use ? if use power adapter ? then how many it can run ? (total watts) Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 to coldwaters, if you use Highly Efficient LED Circuit Board (4V-18V) then what power input that you going to use ? if use power adapter ? then how many it can run ? (total watts) if your going to go with the circuit board (like one of my projects) u can use any DC power supply with a voltage output of 4-18v. iv noticed that on a standard 12v power supply i can run 3 LEDs in series without any dimming. so if u want to drive 4 LEDs (i recommend that to be the max number to avoid any potential danger...) and a max voltage of 16v. u can find a cheap universal laptop power supply that has 16v like this one. (make sure its always at 16v...super glue to switch or something. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8854 if your daring u can try the MAX at 18v and run 5 LEDs. make sure u cool down the Circuit Board with a fan. each Circuit Board takes about 750mA and w/e voltage. for example i have a 12v 5amp power supply (which i will be using.) 5000mA divide by 750mA = i can run about 6 regulators with that power supply. so 18 x 3Watt LEDs but im only using 3. and 9 LEDs. 5 white and 4 blue. if anyone else is having a hard time let me know. or i can rephrase my info. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 btw what happened to all the other LED threads? Link to comment
The Propagator Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 AND PHOTOS !!! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 I'm still working on mine. School has taken a bit of a priority for now. School is done this week and I will have some more time to work on my fixture come the weekend. Link to comment
lanceleaderx Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1917 will this help ? (better) saw a current usa powerbritee 4 blue led today, dam this thing is so bright. ^^ wonder how 4x3watts blue led looks ~~ alright ''big news'' now PFO Solaris LED has green color now ~~ about 3 in every 25 Leds ~~ Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 lol finally people's complaints got through XD about the green LED wow lance i was just about to post that link but u beat me to it. i was about to add that but dont feel like w8ing another 3 weeks to get it... so i'll finish without it and just use a standard light diffusers if that light is too patchy. im planning to get my soldering iron 2morrow. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 alright i checked this morning and i got all 6 BLUE LEDs. when i get back hopefully with the soldering iron i'll start start putting this stuff together after i change the spark plugs on my sisters car... Link to comment
ENraged Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Could someone break down a comparison of a single 1w 10K LEd to MH wattage? If such a thing is a possibility at all I would love to add some LED supplementation to my AP12 Link to comment
ENraged Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 OK went over each post a bit slower this time and i get how it works now. It would be fun to convert a spare coralife fixture i have over to a LED for a pico. I might have to try this. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 lol i found the soldering iron and its only $5 but didnt have the solder... im missing the side braces for the heatsink so cant really do anything right now... Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 ok since i dont have the thermal epoxy. i just mounted the boards on to the heatsink. the white LEDs arent glued down yet but i just placed it on top to show you what i would look like. sorry its been so long but heres a pic update... btw the outside ring is Negative and the circle in the middle is positive. make sure u dont revers it cuz i'll get hot and burn out. thats if people get these. as u can see im wiring this in series one 3. im not sure if the regulators are going to get hot but im putting it next to the fan anyways. i'll finish what i can today. and hopefully update again soon. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 ok the cost break down is about $65 (less if u already have a good DC power supply) $20 for the 4 Blue LEDs $17 for the 5 white LED $5 heatsink and fan $15 for the DC power supply $9.30 for the regulators wires and heatsink compound i already have. but their like less then $10 if u buy it. since im w8ing for the good glue i'll finish my 10 LED project. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 well that was faster then i expected. LED project 1 is done i just replaced 2 LEDs with BLUE Cree. one was kinda broken and the other one was white when it should be blue. its a lot bluer then i expected but i'll look whiter on a tank. enjoy the cost break down for this was almost $90 mainly cuz of the overkill heatsink and it was a prototype. the most expensive thing was the LED driver $30 shipped. i'll replace the other 2 old LEDs once i get a chance but its working great. from the last shot it seems that the 10 LEDs are most effective 1 feet away...thank god my tank is only 6" tall XD the second project is closely packed together in groups of 3 so im betting it would be effective on deep aquariums. hope u guys enjoyed this so far. now i cant w8 to restart my tank XD. Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 what no props? u know how hard soldering thos regulators are? thats a 22g wire btw... Link to comment
coolwaters Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 i bet most of u guys are saying "man thats too blue" its only about 100 lumens of blue and 800 lumens of cool white. can someone help me make up a hood plan for the 9 LED array? the whole thing is 8" X 2.5" X 1.5" im trying to go low profile....seems to me i'll have to w8 for project 3....for sure im making that less then 1" thick. Link to comment
0823angeles Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Thats impressive and yet very simple. Great job!!! Just wondering how's the temperature of the setup? Link to comment
somoney Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Sweet! Nice job. "PROPS!" It looks near white at center. Depending on just how TALL your tank is going to be will determine your outcome here. You may want to get a yard stick on a white poster board and measure the color spread at different heights. All this is Theory of corse since any measurement will change when you throw water into the equation, however I imagine it won't be too off. Link to comment
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