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red patch turns to death


Vi3tKid420

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well, ive had about 2 chromis die from my lfs beause they had this red patch, the next day they died.

Then i bought one healthy one, and a red small patch came out of nowhere. now he is dying slowly, the patch got bigger, looks almost like a blister and he is swimming upwards like hes trying to reach the surface. What is it, how is itcaused, and whats the treatment?

 

please help asap!

 

heres a picture... i just updated it, he croaked just now :(

 

DSC00805.jpg

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well, ive had about 2 chromis die from my lfs beause they had this red patch, the next day they died.

Then i bought one healthy one, and a red small patch came out of nowhere. now he is dying slowly, the patch got bigger, looks almost like a blister and he is swimming upwards like hes trying to reach the surface. What is it, how is itcaused, and whats the treatment?

 

Where is the red patch ? Beind the Gill Plate ?

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supreme_spork
well, ive had about 2 chromis die from my lfs beause they had this red patch, the next day they died.

Then i bought one healthy one, and a red small patch came out of nowhere. now he is dying slowly, the patch got bigger, looks almost like a blister and he is swimming upwards like hes trying to reach the surface. What is it, how is itcaused, and whats the treatment?

 

stop buying fish for a while -- your tank isn't ready for them. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...p;#entry1327204

 

wait a few weeks, test your water and then try again with *one* fish.

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how is my tank not ready? i had a tank before and i only cycled it for 2 weeks and everything was fine.. there has to be a cause for this. the other chromi is doing fine,

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Sorry but I was not looking for a treatment for the fish. I was trying to show you that your fish are dying from ammonia poisoning and that you are not cycled yet. Please reread the article and it will tell you that one of the symptoms are what you showed on your picture, red areas on the fish.

 

Description: Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions.

# Symptoms: Fish gasp for breath at the water surface

# Purple or red gills

# Fish is lethargic

# Loss of appetite

# Fish lays at the bottom of the tank

# Red streaking on the fins or body

 

Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly, or over a period of days. Initially the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.

As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.

# Treatment: Lower pH below 7.0

# 25 - 50% water change

# Use chemical to neutralize ammonia

# Discontinue or reduce feeding

 

If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately. Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.

If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.

Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.

At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.

# Prevention: Stock new tanks slowly

# Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food

# Change water regularly

# Test water regularly to catch problems early

 

The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. Even in an well established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking. Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Test the water for ammonia at least twice a month to detect problems before they become serious. Anytime a fish appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia poisoning. If the filter stops, test for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected.

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alright i just did a water change, we ran a test again

nitrate: 20ppm

nitrite: 0ppm

salinity: 1.024

alkalinity: ideal

 

my lfs did my water test n they said since i have no nitrite there was no point doing an ammonia test, then they tried sucking me in to buying some medication, but i think ill pass.. im sure its just a water change that was needed.

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supreme_spork
alright i just did a water change, we ran a test again

nitrate: 20ppm

nitrite: 0ppm

salinity: 1.024

alkalinity: ideal

 

my lfs did my water test n they said since i have no nitrite there was no point doing an ammonia test, then they tried sucking me in to buying some medication, but i think ill pass.. im sure its just a water change that was needed.

 

i still think it's worth waiting several weeks before putting anything else in there -- you're killin' an awful lot of fish here. :P and when you do add something else, for crying out loud just add one fish at a time!

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i still think it's worth waiting several weeks before putting anything else in there -- you're killin' an awful lot of fish here. :P and when you do add something else, for crying out loud just add one fish at a time!

ditto. actually get a test kit yourself and make sure you're completely cycled. better safe than sorry, sucks for those fish you're slowly poisoning to death. I'd sure hate to hemmorrage from my brain and have my nervous system slowly shut down :o

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