Come in and join me....

[coolwaters]

lol just noticed that your using that for a freshwater tank.

and your using all cool white. i see why.

 

for plants its shown that red and blue light (pinkish light) is the best if your trying to grow plants. wal-mart has a T-8 and T10 bulb for fresh and saltwater fish. iv read the chart and it seems to have a lot of both but since red is more dominating its really quite pink to me so dont really like it but its great if u want to grow chaeto.

 

btw do u have to have all thos wires sick out? u make it seem harder then it really is. XD

[Gomer]

btw do u have to have all thos wires sick out? u make it seem harder then it really is. XD

 

well, I need atleast 6 wires for the 2 LED drivers and fan You don't see them when they are on he tank though.

[evilc66]

Looks very cool. What are you using for drivers on that?

[evilc66]

Ok Gomer. Here is what you aked for - side by side comparison over my BC14:

 

 

Stock 48W CF on the left, DIY LED setup on the right.

 

I tried as hard as possible to get the setting the same between the two shots. I got the F-stop and the shutter speed the same (I think), but the ISO is different. I don't think it will make for that big of a difference.

 

Just a recap: this is 12 LEDs (8 white @130lm, 4 470nm blue @30lm) with a combined output of 1160lm at about 29W.

 

Brightness looks pretty similar. You can see a significant difference in the shadows in the tank, and you can see a little shimmer. I think someone could easily mistake it for MH.

 

What do you think?

[snowlancer2720]

looks nice! im still waiting on my power supply and the stars for mine, i hate buying from overseas! lol

[legodude]

Ok Gomer. Here is what you aked for - side by side comparison over my BC14:

 

 

Stock 48W CF on the left, DIY LED setup on the right.

 

I tried as hard as possible to get the setting the same between the two shots. I got the F-stop and the shutter speed the same (I think), but the ISO is different. I don't think it will make for that big of a difference.

 

[snip]

 

What do you think?

 

Unless all camera settings are the same, such a comparison is useless. At the very least, exposure must be the same: "Film speed is used in the exposure equation to find the appropriate exposure parameters. Four variables are available to the photographer to obtain the desired effect: lighting, film speed, f-number (aperture size), and shutter speed (exposure time)."

 

From:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_5800:1987

 

White balance should also be identical. You really need to put the camera into full manual mode for such comparison to even have a hope of being useful.

 

Mike

[evilc66]

Well, there really isn't any difference between the pictures and what it really looks like, but for the sake of argument I will take the pictures again tonight. I figured out how to manualy adjust the ISO levels so I will do it again.

[legodude]

Well, there really isn't any difference between the pictures and what it really looks like, but for the sake of argument I will take the pictures again tonight. I figured out how to manualy adjust the ISO levels so I will do it again.

 

That's the point. Consider a photo taken outside in bright daylight and one taken inside... there won't be much difference in the photos because the camera automatically sets the exposure (of which ISO is one part) to bring the dark room and bright outdoors to the same proper exposure. Your eyes do the exact same thing. They may indeed be very similar, but to properly say you'd have to have the different lights on two identical setups, or take two photos of a single setup with constant exposure.

 

Mike

[evilc66]

Ok Legodude, here they are.

 

 

Stock on the left, LED on the right.

 

These were taken in full manual mode, ISO 100, f4.0, shutter at 1/8sec, same distance, same height, no ambient light, no flash. I hope this is now satisfactory, cuz I can't get any more manual on my camera. It actually did some good because the LEDs now actually look brighter in the pics.

 

I don't mind doing this kind of stuff if someone will actually benefit from it. I hope this is helpful to someone.

 

Let me know what you guys think.

[lotekfish]

Thanks very much for taking the time to take and post those photos!! That's the first time I've seen a side-by-side comparison of CF and LED- now I know what is possible and what to shoot for in terms of number of LEDs.

 

Looks great, congratulations!

[legodude]

Ok Legodude, here they are.

 

 

Stock on the left, LED on the right.

 

These were taken in full manual mode, ISO 100, f4.0, shutter at 1/8sec, same distance, same height, no ambient light, no flash. I hope this is now satisfactory, cuz I can't get any more manual on my camera. It actually did some good because the LEDs now actually look brighter in the pics.

 

I don't mind doing this kind of stuff if someone will actually benefit from it. I hope this is helpful to someone.

 

Let me know what you guys think.

 

Looks great. Thanks for providing the first objective data that I've seen about LED lighting. Not entirely sure if I like the more directional light of LEDs, but it's certainly something that warrants more investigation.

 

Mike

[CapHillReef]

Thanks for all the helpful info. I've dabbled in the LED's previously, but only the 5mm ones and only for actinic supplementation. Makes me want to set something up for this 5.5 gal AGA that has been in the works for a while now.

 

Have you seen these?

http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=5535...o=7007-PWC-08-3

 

Might be useful to save people trying to reflow LED's themselves. If only I could talk them into two white and one blue per star.

 

How many total LED's (blue and white) are on in the photos?

[evilc66]

I had originaly looked at those LED stars, but couldn't justify the price. I have a board with a similar setup and I'm running 2 white and one blue on each board. Thats one reason for doing it myself is that you can't get this color combination pre-made, or pretty much any other combination. Plus, I can build them a bunch cheaper than that too.

 

As I mentioned before, that picture is 8 white (6500K @ 130lm) and 4 blue (470nm @ 30lm).

 

Would anyone be interested in buying these units for a decent price, configured any way you want?

[CapHillReef]

Would anyone be interested in buying these units for a decent price, configured any way you want?

 

Sure. I assume you can beat the Luxeon price...

 

I'd probably be interested in two white led with one blue led and maybe some all blue led's.

[evilc66]

PM me and we can talk a little more.

[SaltyJohn]

Hi guys, a very promising DIY project as far as I am concerned, since my electricity bill is one of the biggest expenses of my tank nowadays, and it seems with the new price hike coming it will become a show stopper for many of us here in Greece!

 

Does anyone have a clue as to how well does the light from the high power leds (Rebels or P4s) penetrate water? I am mean, my tank is roughly 23" (water level that is) and since I have not seen any tanks showing considerable growth while being lit by LED lighting -of any sort- this is still an experiment in my mind, a rather expensive experiment at that -tank is 71"X25"X26" so there is a lot of ground to cover compared to a nano/pico setup that you are testing these out.

 

I am not so much concerned with the PAR/PUR of these arrays at certain depths (although I would love to be able to measure it, but equipment is so expensive) but rather at how much light does reach the sand without lens, with which lenses can we improve that etc.

 

Anyone care to take a stab at these Qs?

[evilc66]

Well, I'm trying to get my hands on a Lux and PAR meter for testing of my setup, but is proving to be difficult especially the PAR meter. Light penetration and PAR tend to go hand in hand. PAR will be more beneficial for growth of photosynthetic corals. Higher PAR levels are generally linked to higher light intensity, but if you get the light spectrum right, it's not as critical.

[kgehrke]

Your thread has tons of great info, thanks for taking the time to explain all of it. I have a quick question or two. Did you use the LED's with this part number, LXML-PWC1-0100? If not could you show me a link or something? If I'm not being to forward, how much did they cost? I've been looking around on the future electronics site. I work as a co-op at a large corporation so I have access to all the equipment I would need, but I'm still on the fence about taking the plunge.

[evilc66]

No, I used the LMXL-PWC1-0070 (130lm @700mA). They were the brightest ones available at the time that I could get without ordering 250. I see now that they have two steps up available at Future. Future is the best place to buy them right now, and thats where I ended up getting mine.

 

I say do it. It's a great experiment if you are willing to put the effort into it. I've had a blast researching and building everything.

[sparky77]

i thought of given the led experment, after rushing in and buying 100 led white and 100 led blue, think i may of over ordered.

 

look on the bright side

 

these leds are 3mm pre wired just plug and play according to the web site.

http://www.BestHongKong.com

100 x 12VDC 15cm 5mm Wire Ultra Bright Blue LED (BEC0501022) = $45.00

100 x 12VDC 15cm 5mm Wire Ultra Bright White LED - Built with BUWC333W (BEC0601092) = $55.00

 

anyway the results from MH and Compacts T5 are LUX Levels

Mh 70w Front left Front right Front centre Back left Back right

Lower 117 71 128 41 35

Mid 77 128 568 46 52

Top 58 90 270 130 96

 

2x T5 36w Front left Front right Front centre Back left Back right

Lower 94 150 76 19 28

Mid 137 171 151 68 76

Top 88 90 75 70 86

 

All lights Front left Front right Front centre Back left Back right

Lower 143 288 427 60 80

Mid 251 305 800 155 166

Top 230 180 191 374 273

 

when the leds arrive i will compare the results

 

my plans are

 

5 x led moon moon light 24Hrs

xxx x Ultra Bright Blue LED 10am to 10pm

xxx x Ultra Bright White LED 11am to 9pm

2 x T5 36W (bluemoon + Daylight) 12pm to 8pm

1 x MH 70w 20,0000K 2pm to 6pm

 

@ the moment if the Mh is on for 12Hrs i get a 4degree F heat transfer

[evilc66]

What are you intending to get out of the LEDs? Will it be for suplemental lighting, or to replace something that you already have? Also, how big of a tank is this going over?

[sparky77]

What are you intending to get out of the LEDs? Will it be for suplemental lighting, or to replace something that you already have? Also, how big of a tank is this going over?

sorry about that, is a nano cube 24

and after reading a bit more into your and other posts i hope the Led's are ok, to late now.

have'nt made my mind up, i hoped to stagger the lights from dawn to dusk, have temp problems if the MH is on more than 8hrs,

 

led's

led's + 2x26w T5

led's + 2x26w T5 + MH 70w

led's + 2x26w T5

led's

 

all depends the lights are ok in the winter months, just does not like the summer.

thou the corals seem to do ok,

[evilc66]

3mm LEDs aren't going to do much for you in terms of overall brightness. They may work out ok for a stage in your light cycle. Just don't expect anything to grow from them alone.

[SaltyJohn]

Well, life, work and my two little daughters have been kicking my arse, so no real update here on the DIY side of

things, but had plenty of time to think things out (long commutes) and I have concluded on the major parts for a LED array to light my upcoming (Gods knows when) new reef tank.

 

I am looking at getting something equivalent to the 72" (or 60", the jury is still out on that one) Solaris or Aqua llumination units for well bellow the price they are selling those.

 

Main drivers for me are:

 

1) I like the cooler temps the entire setup will run at.

2) I am not able to dish that kind of ca$h out.

3) It's much more fun to DIY this one, than to dish out the cash (even if I had it!)

4) I do not think I need all the extras and trimmings those guys put on-board (clouds etc).

5) None of the 2 have met European Standards compliance according to my knowledge yet...

 

The controller has been a major pain, but it seems that all is ironed out (at least on paper....sshhh... I know, I know) and I have placed a partial order for microcontrollers, digital electronic components, LEDs, lens, Power Supplies, etc for a first prototype (for my 48" fresh water tank)

 

One main issue still to be addressed is that of PAR measurements, I hope someone will source instrumentation and finally go through the hassle of getting us some reading, so all I can do till then is play with different lenses to get the desired effect for my eye (not necessarily for the fish unfortunately!)

 

If anyone is on the same path and needs a few short cuts, post away, although nowhere near an expert, maybe I can help...

[coolwaters]

i noticed that solaris uses 1:1 blue and white. and AI uses 1:2 blue and white. either AI dont be as blue as solaris or solaris just isnt using efficient blue leds...

 

anyways if your going to do a 72" array of LEDs then i think getting regulators and a good PC power source. (somewhere in the 400w area.) dont use close to the max output...

 

the LEDs alone should cost almost $1000...(about 200 of them)

thats y im sticking with small tanks...should cost me like $30 for all the LEDs.

 

salty your right u dont need the extras and trimmings. people with VHO/MH for years and they never complained about dimming or color control...