Starting a 20 gallon SW tank

[pinballwizrd315]

Hey everyone,

 

I am thinking about starting a 20 gallon tank. I want to keep some coral and fish and was wondering what you would recommend I need. I have been reseachering a lot lately and have an idea what i need. I just need help on what companies are good, and do i need a refugium? I have a lot of questions if you could start helping me with what i need hopefully you guys can also help me later.

 

Thanks

[JulienB]

I'll be following this topic closely. I am also just starting a 20 gallon setup. Looking to keep it as simple as possible. So much information out there - most of it conflicting - not sure what to think.

 

Good luck!

 

Julien

[Hinecken]

Looking to keep it as simple as possible.

 

Very smart.

 

Here's my advice. Keep your first tank super simple, you need to understand water chemistry and to see first hand the effects of the nitrogen cycle, those two things will be the most important things you need to learn, and no book will replace seeing it for yourself. To get yourself started, get some sand and some rock, throw it in the tank with a powerhead or cheap-o HOB filter and let the tank do it's thing while you are researching the rest of the equipment.

 

The rest of the equipment:

 

Lights: Save for a metal halide, I promise you won't regret the decision. (research color and wattage, then make your own decision based on what you've read.)

 

Skimmer: although not required, I recommend them to all n00bs, it will help make your life a little easier. I've had good luck with the Remora, and you can usually find them used.

 

Flow: Closed loop IMHO is always best, but if you must go with powerheads, look into the new propeller type ones such as the Koralia (spelling sux), a narrow jet of water isn't exactly natural.

 

Heater or Chiller: depends on where you live, but you will most likely need one or both, major temp swings are never a good thing. Heaters are cheap, chillers can be $$ but worth it.

 

Test Kit: PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Calcium, KH, Hydrometer (I still use an old school one that I float in either my water change bucket, or in my fuge, they're better than the swing arm jobbies)

 

That's it, you can start a very nice reef with just the items above. You can also choose to ignore this post, have a tank that looks like NASA set it up and have a very nice reef too. I used to tell all of my customers that were just starting out to not buy the fancy gadgets right at the start and instead spend the money on a couple of good books that will keep you occupied and learning throughout the cycling process.

 

Ooops, almost forgot the most important item.

 

PATIENCE!!! Take it slooooooooooooooooow. It takes a very long time to create a functioning ecosystem, don't expect it to be ready to handle a full load immediately, the longer you wait, the healthier your reef will be.

[nlucianos]

a lot of heineckens points were very valid and good, solid advice. patience is the key factor in a successful reef, consider you are replicating the ocean, which has had millions and millions of years to develop. you can go two ways: All in one tanks (biocube, nanocube, aquapod) or set up your own. this choice should be decided on whether you would prefer simplicity or more complexity. for a newbie, i would recommend an all in one tank. depending on your size pref. i have heard all positive things about the BioCube 29 and 14 gallon models. i am impressed with the nano cube besides the fans.

 

dont go with a skimmer, it will remove beneficial bacteria as well as the bad, which can be dealt with by filtration products.

 

your decision can also be based on how you would like your tank to look (more "cube" or long)

 

i disagree about starting with metal hallide, start with simplet Compact Flourescent light and in a year or so, decide if you want to venture into toughter species. theres many good fixtures like the Current SunPod if you decide to do so. soft corals and a lot of LPS do fine under compact flourescent.

 

if you decide to go with one of these all in one tanks, replace the stock pump with a MJ900 (12-14 gallon models) or MJ1200 (24-29 models) as well as a koralia 1.

 

heating: 12-14 gallons get a 50-75W 20-29 get a 100W (Ebo Jager is best)

 

testing: instant ocean reefmaster kits are good as well as salifert

 

use a refractometer! drsfostersmith.com offers a $40 one that works incredibly, so much more accurate than swing arms

 

if i were you just starting out try either BioCube 14 gallon, Nano Cube 24 gallon, or BioCube 29 gallon.

again, its your choice if you want to set up a system thats not all in one.

 

if you do decideto go all in one, buy chemi-pure (its INCREDIBLE) convert one of the back chambers into a fuge. if you have any other questions post them on this thread and ill answer back.

[Rocket]

Their are a lot of Pro's and a few con's to consider if you want a protein skimmer. As for me, I love it, and the elements it removes will be replaced with water changes, as for bacteria its organic and protein skimmers remove organic stuff. So in other words its your decision to get a protein skimmer. Either way you will have to do regular water changes.

 

 

And as for MH lights they are a little tough to get used to as you have to actually measure out how much they increase your water temperature per your photo period, but the single point light source allows for a "shimmer effect" I just love, and the colors are unmatched. It is just you have to manage the HEAT carefully. One solution I employ is suspending (Sunpod 14k 150w HQI) 8 inches above the tank, very little heat transfer and it has a built in fan for some cooling.

 

Get your tank and add the rock, as it can take a month to cycle the rock.

 

Best of luck.

[Hinecken]

dont go with a skimmer, it will remove beneficial bacteria as well as the bad, which can be dealt with by filtration products.

 

That's a pretty "blanket" statement. He needs to do his own research and decide whether or not a skimmer is for him and within his budget.

While it is certainly not required, and I personally don't always use them, I do sincerely recommend that n00bs use one. It will help to remove the decaying matter during the initial cycle, keep O2 levels up which in turn reduces night time PH swings, allows a larger cushion for mistakes, helps pull excess food out of the water due to overfeeding (IME that and moving too fast are the #1 n00b mistakes), help shorten the length of algae blooms and more. I keep using the word n00b because an experienced reefer can form an educated decision on whether or not they prefer doing the small amount of extra maintenance ( I do. ), or run a skimmer. Also, the skimmer can always be removed after the cycle and a few months of educating him/herself on water chemistry and aquarium maintenance. It's sad to think of how many people have gotten discouraged and gave up on this great hobby when it could have been avoided by simplifying the tank and lessening the maintenance.

[JulienB]

Thanks,

 

I hope I'm not hi-jacking this thread, but pinbllwzzrd might be wondering the same thing:

 

What lighting levels are needed for basic corals?

[noobwithatank]

Thanks,

 

I hope I'm not hi-jacking this thread, but pinbllwzzrd might be wondering the same thing:

 

What lighting levels are needed for basic corals?

 

it would depend on the size, and the depth of the tank as they are a key factor.

[nlucianos]

That's a pretty "blanket" statement. He needs to do his own research and decide whether or not a skimmer is for him and within his budget.

While it is certainly not required, and I personally don't always use them, I do sincerely recommend that n00bs use one. It will help to remove the decaying matter during the initial cycle, keep O2 levels up which in turn reduces night time PH swings, allows a larger cushion for mistakes, helps pull excess food out of the water due to overfeeding (IME that and moving too fast are the #1 n00b mistakes), help shorten the length of algae blooms and more. I keep using the word n00b because an experienced reefer can form an educated decision on whether or not they prefer doing the small amount of extra maintenance ( I do. ), or run a skimmer. Also, the skimmer can always be removed after the cycle and a few months of educating him/herself on water chemistry and aquarium maintenance. It's sad to think of how many people have gotten discouraged and gave up on this great hobby when it could have been avoided by simplifying the tank and lessening the maintenance.

 

yes your right it is definetely his own decision. IMO frequent water changes combined with benefits of filtration products ike purigen, chemi-pure, with a fuge defeat the need. but you are correct in that it could simplyfy things

[nlucianos]

Thanks,

 

I hope I'm not hi-jacking this thread, but pinbllwzzrd might be wondering the same thing:

 

What lighting levels are needed for basic corals?

 

the general rule for softies is you need about 2.5-2.75 Watts/Gallon in Compacts Flourescent Lighting, i go with actinic too (you definetely want it) on the other hand, there are some corals thats simply enjoy the shadows like sun polyps that rely more on food than photosynthese, as well as mushroom coral which is more similar to anemones, and require low-light. if you want to keep LPS you will want at least 3 Watts/Gallon (Note this is only for hardier and less-light requiring LPS like frogspawn, torch, plate, hammer, bubble)

For SPS and Clams you will want about 6-7 Watts/Gallon, but they NEEED Metal Hallide lighting. if your new, starts with a Compact Flourescent/Actinic Light setup with LED moon lights and when your ready for the complications and financial needs of a metal hallide setup, go for it, it is the closest thing to natural sunlight and your corals open more than ever before, you will be pleased with the results.

 

If you want to go with an all in one tanks (biocube, nanocube, aquapod) these all have enough in stock lighting for zoas, mushrooms, xenia, some LPS, all softies. if you decide to not go with an all in one tank check out drsfostersmith.com lighting fixtures.

[JulienB]

Thanks,

 

I'm gona stick to 3W/Gallon. I hope this was also helpful to Pinbllwzzrd. I think I'll have 2X20W T5 lighting and some CF. I'm building my own canopy. Scrap pile at school has LOTS to salvage from, and a woodshop to fabricate.

 

Thanks,

 

Julien

[pinballwizrd315]

Thanks,

 

Keep asking good questions Julien its helping us both. Can a Biocube or Nanocube be upgraded to a MH? and what is the advantages and disadvantages of buying everything seperate. Price? Functions better?

 

Thanks,

 

The Pinball Wizard