Maeda Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I have no idea how to plan a big tank. Help! 60x30x18" The stand will probably be built from welded steel, with a 1/8" wooden shell. The side pieces to cover the 3 lower cavities will be made from fabric stretched on wooden frames, press fit into the stand. I was going to try and hide 2 Tunze Streams, or 4 Nano Streams behind the false wall for flow. The stand has a removable side piece for super easy access to the sump, and skimmer. In the stand is a 20g ATO reservoir. I might downsize this. Right in front of the ATO reservoir, you can see the sump return pump. Anyone got any tips? More pics to come. The sump is built out of a 20 long AGA. It should only takes 4 pieces of acrylic to make. Dual overflows, one into a phosban-reactor section, and the other into the skimmer chamber. The chamber's big enough to fit... BK Mini 160 Tunze 9010 H&S Deltec mc500 It flows into a center bubble trap, and then a center exit to an external pump. There's room for sensors and probes in the last chamber. There will be NO FUGE. I hate them in sps tanks, and I refuse to use one. Link to comment
eddie29 Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 don't do the same mistake I did....acrylic expands and breaks glass tanks =( I wish I could get the Bk Mini 160, your sketch abilities are pretty good btw Link to comment
Maeda Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 More detail of whats behind the false wall. If I go with powerheads of anykind, i'll have to divide the rear chamber to prevent flooding my sump in a power outage. Sorry for the ######ty diagram. You get the point. The left chamber, and the right chamber hold spots for Tunzes. The center chamber is driller for a dual overflow + a return. Under the rear chamber cover, there's a slot for keeping cords. I figure I can make the slot pretty small, and use a cover piece much like the cover for the sump. Does anyone know who makes LARGEr glass tanks in socal? Preferably braceless, but i could deal with eurobracing if I have to. Link to comment
illuminano Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 More detail of whats behind the false wall. If I go with powerheads of anykind, i'll have to divide the rear chamber to prevent flooding my sump in a power outage. Sorry for the ######ty diagram. You get the point. The left chamber, and the right chamber hold spots for Tunzes. The center chamber is driller for a dual overflow + a return. Under the rear chamber cover, there's a slot for keeping cords. I figure I can make the slot pretty small, and use a cover piece much like the cover for the sump. Does anyone know who makes LARGEr glass tanks in socal? Preferably braceless, but i could deal with eurobracing if I have to. wow if you can pull this off it would be amazing. good sketchup Link to comment
msn711 Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 On a tank that long, I would want dual returns on opposite ends of the tank. I'm not sure that putting the tunzes on one end of the tank will really cover the flow throughout the tank. And for the price of 2xTunzes, you might consider the vortech's. I was looking at the tunze 9010 and deltec mce500/600, but I wasn't impressed with the reviews I found...too inconsistent. The H&S skimmers look really good. I agree on the fuge...I hate them period. What are you thinking for stocking? And lighting? Link to comment
Maeda Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 SPS. Lots of SPS. Very few fish if any. I have a realllly hard time keeping my fish alive for some strange reason. I own a 9010, and i love it. i'm getting a mc500 in two days so i'll see how that works out. I'm still not sure on lights. 2x175w iwasaki's 15000l + 2 60"t5 HO 3 150w + 4 t5ho 2 150w + 2 daylight t5ho + 2 actinic 5ho Link to comment
mattyice Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 hmmm i still disagree about the fuge, you need some sort of nutrient export unless you go with a media reactor and plumb it into the sump as for the glass i would say if you want those dimensions and a rimless tank that it would take 3/4" glass, at least thats the thinnest glass that a tank manufacturer would go with just to cover their ass as for the flow its going to be hard to keep SPS in a 5" long tank with only nanostreams on one side, i would say save some money and go with two vortechs on the wireless controller when they come out, you can pretty much have unlimited kinds of flow and would look very clean in the tank Link to comment
SPS20 Posted December 2, 2007 Share Posted December 2, 2007 Out of curiosity, why the fuge hating? Of course, you prob will have plenty of pods and such in the display itself if you don't have much in the way of fish, but i'm still curious as to why you dislike fuges. - Josh Link to comment
Maeda Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Still planning? FUNDRAISING. Out of curiosity, why the fuge hating? Of course, you prob will have plenty of pods and such in the display itself if you don't have much in the way of fish, but i'm still curious as to why you dislike fuges. I only really dislike the fuge in a strictly SPS tank. My last 2 tanks have proved to me that they just collect garbage. I found it a LOT easier reducing my phosphates and nitrates to nothing(near nothing) when I ditched my fuge. Link to comment
Maeda Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Here's the updated plan Lighting DIY canopy from aluminum 2x Lumenmax 2 reflectors 2x 60" T5HO Display 60"x30"x20" LOW water level at about 16" to prevent splashies Plumbing Panworld 1200gph sump return Vortech(?), Polario(?), Dart CLS(?) I think i'm going with a closet sump room or something on this. It doesn't make sense to build my sump near my stand at this point in time. Link to comment
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