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It Finally happened


Pgreco

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Well,

 

Things were going so good that something bad had to happen to offset it. My skilter developed a small leak and began dripping water down the power cord. My surge strip is located under my tank so naturally the water began to acumulate right around there. Got home last night to a house that smelled of smoke. Wondering what it could possibly be, i looked areound the whole house and then...

I got to the room my nano was in. Lights were out, nothing was running, luckily there was no fire, just smoke soming out from the back of the tank. When i finally looked I saw a melted surge protector along with all the power cords plugged in. A list of casualties:

1. Skilter

2. Aquaclear filter

3. Heater

4. Power surge strip

Amazingly, none of the livestock was affected. I guess i got home just in time. Anyway I have a LFS right down the street so i picked up a heater and a air pump. The new equipment should arrive today or tommorow in the mail.

 

So what lesson did i learn? Dunno, Sh*t happens i guess.

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Drip loop. Every aquarium appliance warns you to have one. Read the instructions! You are some lucky dude, you could have lost your house!

 

BTW, why did u post this in the lounge? Don't think its off-topic.

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Christopher Marks

Proof that those drip loop instructions that come with all aquarium equipment really do serve a purpose.

 

Fortunately you were there to take care of things!

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yeah-- can't say it enough---drip loop!!

 

when i did my tank, i mounted the power trip/protector on the wall behinf tank t about stand top level - that way ALL cords automatically have drip loops - also-- for more safety--- i took one of those gallon freezer bags and split it down the sides - made it be about 14-16 inches long - and i taped it to top edge of power strip and draped it down----that way even wayward spalshes, etc cant get to the outlets!!!

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junglejim83

Well, you've obviously learned your lesson. So about getting your tank running again, you could replace the plugs and cords(make sure you cut the cord a good distance from the damage) only do this if you are comfortable and familiar with connecting wires. then after connecting the new plug and cord test them out and if the connection is good cover the connections with electric tape and the coat that with silicone. This is all assuming your actual equipenmt wasnt damaged. If it was this should save you alot of money. while you're at it find the leak in the skilter or and go over it with some plastic cement(like the thicker glue you would use for glueing acrylic/plexi glass). That should fix the leak but be sure go over all the seams with the glue and then go over that with silicone, incase there is other weak spots and possible leaks.

Jim

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apophis924

when you get the tank up and running skip the skilter, I had one and it was nothing but a fancy noise maker. take your old skilter and the next time something gets you fired up. take the skiter and kick it as hard as you can. It is an exellent stress remover. And use the drip loop or bettter yet just get an extension cord a heavy duty kind they are gray in color and mount your power stip above the tank. It might not look good but it looks better than a pile of ashes that was once a house.

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Chamkeeper

Do you use a GFI Outlet ? If not you are crazy. This is the kind of thing they are designed to prevent. No Smoke, No Fire, but no power....

 

If you don't feel you have the DIY abilities to replace an outlet, then buy a cord with GFI stuff.

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freakaccident

GFCI

 

Skilters are great to use for current flow, running carbon, and making gurgling noises. Actually I got mine to work pretty good with some mods.

 

1. Yank tube off of motor and turn chamber 180* so the water doesn't blast through the chamber.

 

2. Use wooden skimmer airstone and airpump instead of venturi. Stick the stone through the top of the skimmer and out the top. I drilled a hole in the lid to run the airline through. Make the hole smaller than the airline so you can adjust the stone height in the chamber.

 

3. Adjust stone height in chamber so bubbles don't fill the tank.

 

4. Use little valve to adjust the airflow so the cup doesn't fillup with water in 30 seconds.

 

I would bet that you could drill a hole just at or above water level on the chamber and the bubbles would push the water up and out. It would probably work pretty good too. Of course the bubbles would invade the tank too.

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