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Nano Chillers vs AC


bubbles3660

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bubbles3660

Hello all,

 

I wanted to solicit some advice with the summer heat quickly approaching. Ambient room temps where my BC14 is will reach 90F on really hot days (no central air). Would a nano-chiller combat this effectively? (For example a USA Prime nano chiller Model #2680) Or should I just get a honking big AC window unit and bite the bullet with the extra hydro costs?

 

 

--bubbles

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Well you can buy an Arctica Nano chiller thats up to 25G and costs around $250 or as you said you can get a honking AC and you can enjoy it too :P Just think about the time this AC will be ON. Make sure if you turn of your AC your temp not hit the 90's again. consider the electricity bills. AC all day long vs chiller turns on every other minute.

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fraggle rockette

i recently got the prime chiller and so far, it is AWESOME. super duper quiet, noise level less than a mini fridge when the compressor kicks on, and only does so for a minute or so every thirty minutes (mine is rated up to 50G and my tank is 12G so that helps too). definitely don't expect to see that bumping up my energy bill like our swamp cooler would! i recommend the chiller- about $300-400 to get up an running (pump, hoses, etc. not included) but worth it in the long run i think.

 

p.s. the guys over at one of my LFS say dont buy arctica/jpj- they've had a lot of returns with fans breaking and stuff, and told me that it's a big risk- i wanted their new nano chiller, but for a little more $, i'll buy peace of mind for the long summer ahead. (and i'm totally a cheapy too- lol. :P)

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chrisstankevitz

My CurrentUSA chiller is loud loud loud. Bought it new from nanotuners. Certainly gets the job done though.

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I have the JBJ Arctica Nano with no issues so far. In fact I believe JBJ started out originally as a chiller company, not lighting. ;) My chiller is SUPER quiet except for the moderat thump when it switches off.

 

That aside a chiller would cost you less in the long run I believe. You'd pay as much as a nice wall A/C unit, but it'll use A LOT less energy to run, and it doesn't have to run very long like an A/C would. Also you can't guarantee the A/C will keep your tank at your desired level, a chiller can almost assure that.

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SecondBreath

Current USA Chiller on my 34g works like magic and since it's inside a cabinet I can't hear it at all.

 

Definetly recomend this guy, especially if you want it regulating your heater at the same time!

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Current USA Chiller on my 34g works like magic and since it's inside a cabinet I can't hear it at all.

 

Definetly recomend this guy, especially if you want it regulating your heater at the same time!

 

i will tell you guys in a few days how my 1/5 artica works

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Socalsuperhero

I have a 1/10th hp prime chiller and it works like a charm. Do yourself a favor, get a chiller, and never worry about it again.

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i will tell you guys in a few days how my 1/5 artica works

 

Seeing what my 1/20th did to my 30g, I'm sure your chiller with do you great justice! I'm guessing 1 min of cooling should keep it good for at least 45 mins or so with that monster, lol!

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Seeing what my 1/20th did to my 30g, I'm sure your chiller with do you great justice! I'm guessing 1 min of cooling should keep it good for at least 45 mins or so with that monster, lol!

if i knew before hand that the pump required would be this big, i probably would've just gotten the 1/20 as well. matt, how much was ur chiller brand new including the pump?

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Chiller was $220, plus pump and tax... I'd say I paid no more than $260 out the door! B) Chiller from Pacific Reef of course at the last swap, and then the pump I got from MD for whatever the price of them is, $19 I believe... i was real skeptical about using an MJ1200 with mine though unsure of the head flow after about '6 of hose travel that mine pumps through from intake to return. I'd say I'm getting a minimal of 90-100gph at the return end, and the chiller is rated for 110-160gph pumps... It still seems to cool the water effectively and quickly. Drops my temps down by 2.5 degrees in about 20-25 minutes. Beats the ICA in my AP12 which did the same overnight, LOL!

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Chiller was $220, plus pump and tax... I'd say I paid no more than $260 out the door! B) Chiller from Pacific Reef of course at the last swap, and then the pump I got from MD for whatever the price of them is, $19 I believe... i was real skeptical about using an MJ1200 with mine though unsure of the head flow after about '6 of hose travel that mine pumps through from intake to return. I'd say I'm getting a minimal of 90-100gph at the return end, and the chiller is rated for 110-160gph pumps... It still seems to cool the water effectively and quickly. Drops my temps down by 2.5 degrees in about 20-25 minutes. Beats the ICA in my AP12 which did the same overnight, LOL!

 

2.5 degrees only? do you think it can push it down more?

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2.5 degrees only? do you think it can push it down more?

 

Oh yeah, it definitely can push down more, that's just my initial observations when I hooked it up and my tank was at 83.2F and I bumped it down to 80.0F that night. Lowest I've had it bump down to before establishing a good setting on it was 79.5F So far it's keeping my tank within a 1 degree spread for the past 3-4 days since "tuning" the thermostat to where I want it to be at. Right now I have it kick on at 81.4F and it shuts off at 80.6F per my Tom's Aquatic thermometer.

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My Tom's digital thermometer read 1-2 degrees high. I picked up a mercury thermometer so now I know exactly, not the prettiest thing though.

 

Tagging along, I need a chiller.

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I have a E.C.O. Plus from Sunlight supply. Its a 1/10th and its super quiet. I got pump and all for under $375.00.

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My Tom's digital thermometer read 1-2 degrees high. I picked up a mercury thermometer so now I know exactly, not the prettiest thing though.

 

Tagging along, I need a chiller.

 

My CoralLife digital read 1-1.5 higher than my Tom's so I trust the Tom's a lot more.

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My CoralLife digital read 1-1.5 higher than my Tom's so I trust the Tom's a lot more.

 

now its time to buy a controller so your chiller doesn't accidentally freeze your tank!

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now its time to buy a controller so your chiller doesn't accidentally freeze your tank!

 

For my setup, I don't think it would serve me well... I keep the chiller dial at around 80, so I don't foresee it freezing my tank, I haven't heard of them sticking on at least like heaters commonly do. And that of note, I haven't had to readjust my heater either since I got the chiller. I remember with my AP12 and my ICA, I had to crank my 50w Theo down to 73 to keep it from turning on when the chilled water would run by it. Eventually I might get an RK (RK2), but not anytime in the forseeable future, no need for one right now. Plus the chiller has an alert system in it for if the water cools more than 2 degrees lower than the dial setting. My Tom's also has a min/max alarm at 75F and 82F respectively. :)

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Phixion, how often does your 1/20 come on? I have a 1/15 and set it to 81, the highest setting. My digital thermometer reads less than 80 but the chiller kicks in at least every 30 min, this without the lights on. I probably should get a more accurate thermometer but I'm wondering if there's an issue with the chiller's thermometer as my other thermometer (ie finger) tells me my water isn't above 80 degrees.

 

BTW, I much prefer the digital read out on my 1/10 to the dial on the 1/15.

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Finger test, I should try that out, lol! But seriously, mine comes on every 20 or so minutes at the setting I have it at right now. With our recent overcastness, the tank doesn't seem to be peaking over 81.2F according to my Tom's and thus I don't hear my chiller kick on at all but maybe once or twice in the evening between 5:30 when i get home from work and midnight when I usually crash out for the night. But when it's warmer out, it's about every 20 minutes, and runs for 5-10 minutes, then recycle... I too would prefer a digital temp readout, but analog is fine with me as long as the chiller works. Mine is set between 79 and 80. Kicks on at 81.5 per my Tom's and shuts off around 80.4-6

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I have the JBJ Arctica Nano with no issues so far. In fact I believe JBJ started out originally as a chiller company, not lighting. ;)

wuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuh>?

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bubbles3660

Looks like I'll be going with the Arctica Nano. What sort of pump would be recommended for this? I have the stock pump but it's a pathetic 137 GPH. I'll be running a few feet of tubing into my stand.

 

Also, placement in a BC14. Pump in chamber one and chilled water return in chamber two?

 

 

 

--bubbles

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Looks like I'll be going with the Arctica Nano. What sort of pump would be recommended for this? I have the stock pump but it's a pathetic 137 GPH. I'll be running a few feet of tubing into my stand.

 

Also, placement in a BC14. Pump in chamber one and chilled water return in chamber two?

--bubbles

 

I'm using an MJ1200 with mine with great success. I was skeptical about using an MJ with it originally per both max GPH power and head pressure, but it's working out nicely so far. :)

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For others considering a chiller vs. AC unit:

I went through this with my 60 gallon tank last summer when the electricity prices were sky high. I'd been running the air to keep the tank cooled, and it wasn't the most accurate way to keep the temp down, but at least it worked. Then I got my electric bill that month. It had gone up over $300 from normal!!! I went out and bought a chiller that week.

The chiller was able to cool the water better (kept the tank at 78 all the time) and it didn't run all the time. My electric also dropped all the way back to its normal levels, so even though I was cooling a 60 gallon tank, it maybe added, seriously, $2 or $3 to my electric bill. I was totally shocked. I thought it was going to cost a lot to operate, but it really doesn't, especially when compared with the AC.

A couple caveats-- the apartment I was in was older, the AC unit was older, and was probably an energy hog. Newer appliances that are more efficient won't cost as much to operate.

For a large tank with an open top, running the AC maybe isn't such a bad way to keep the entire room cool, along with the tank. For small nanos with a closed canopy, it doesn't work as well-- trust me. It's how I keep the nano tank at work cool.

With all the lids closed on mu JBJ 24g NC the only way for heat to leave the tank is through the glass, and that takes a lot longer and is less efficient than cooling the water directly like a chiller does.

If you close up the canopy and make it hard for the hot air around your lights to get out, the water temp will stay high. You've got to keep your room at 70 just to keep the tank at 77 or 78. Seriously. And running the AC that much gets expensive.

Now, even if you just open up the feeding lid on the NC, you can make it easier to cool via AC. IME, the AC thermostat has to be approximately 5 degrees colder than where you want your tank. If you set your AC to 70, your water temp might be 75. So, opening the feeding lid can drop your temp a few degrees, but you also get more evaporation, so you have to stay on top of your water levels.

A chiller allows the canopy to run closed, doesn't add much to the cost of running a tank, and also keeps a more stable environment. With AC turning off and on, you're not cooling the water as effectively, but just sort of establishing an equilibrium between the tank and the air in the room. It can work if you can't afford all the money for a chiller, but with electricity costing what it does now, it was actually cheaper just to buy the chiller. Plus it will reduce the temperature fluctuations in the tank and reduce thermal stress on your animals.

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