DIY mod for feeding time!

[BruiseAndy]

Hmm, please explain. I've been trying to figure out a way to secure the wiring. I thought about just using a couple zip ties and drilling a couple holes in that small tube were the extension cord will be coming out. Here is what I plan on using. I wanna keep it small this should hold the timer and one outlet...

 

Probably a 1/2" threaded fitting you have there...use a romex connector/clamp

 

[stallen]

Probably a 1/2" threaded fitting you have there...use a romex connector/clamp

 

Do they have those at Lowe's or do I need to go to Radio Shack or something.

 

No threads in there. Is there something if you don't have threads?

[BruiseAndy]

Do they have those at Lowe's or do I need to go to Radio Shack or something.

 

No threads in there. Is there something if you don't have threads?

They have those at lowes but you got a watertight connector box (grey pvc conduit). Just get a metal 4 way (square) it will have 1/2" and 3/4" knockouts on it. You can also buy SO/SJ cable connectors but you usually only use those when you're going to be moving the wire a ton. The metal 4 way will be galvanized but I'd paint it anyway so it didnt rust.

[stallen]

I just got my SPDT Intermatic Timer. Of course they don't make the instructions very easy to read for the electrical illiterate. All I got is this schematic to work with.

 

 

So can somebody take this image of the switch and outlet and tell me what color wires to hook up.

 

 

The wires go into the sides of the switch in the slots designated Load 1, Load 2, Line 1, and Line 2.

 

If it's not asking too much, if my image could be photoshopped to show what wires go where that would be great.

 

If not then maybe just tell me what wires go where and I'll post another image and y'all can tell me if I got it right before I try it out.

 

Thanks in advance! All of your help is appreciated!!

[GMan]

Wow? ... that diagram and photo gots me stumped ... maybe a "DIY Electrical Guy" will chime in.

 

Is that the only thing that came in the box with the switch?

[GMan]

My initial reaction would be to do the following ...

 

 

Do you have an electric meter you can use for testing? This configuration should power the outlet when the switch is engaged OR when the switch is not engaged. If you get undesired results ... move the black wire from LOAD1 to LOAD2.

 

Caveats apply ... Use at your own risk ... I'm no expert ... remember I've had a smoke detecter sitting on my DIY controller since it has been in service. All is well so far.

[BruiseAndy]

My initial reaction would be to do the following ...

 

 

Do you electric meter you can use for testing? This configuration should power the outlet when the switch is engaged OR when the switch is not engaged. If you get undesired results ... move the black wire from LOAD1 to LOAD2.

 

Caveats apply ... Use at your own risk ... I'm no expert ... remember I've had a smoke detecter sitting on my DIY controller since it has been in service. All is well so far.

 

Wire hot line from wall outlet to line 1 wire hot line going to pump plug to load 2.

Neutral will pass straight throught you dont have to break it.

 

Schematics are almost always written in the de-energized state.

[stallen]

Yeah, there isn't much in the directions besides a schematic (just like above) for each type of set-up. (i.e. normal operation, 3-way operation, and reverse action).

 

Thanks for photoshopping that gman. NICE! That makes it a no brainer for me.

 

Thanks BruiseAndy, I think you probably nailed it. Are you saying to do it just like gman described only placing the black wire from the outlet (labeled "HOT") to LOAD 2 on the timer switch (instead of LOAD 1 as gman described)?

 

With the help from both of you I think I can figure this out now. I just don't want to fry the timer switch and have to buy and wait for another one.

 

I'm at work right now. It might be later this week or even the week-end before I can put it together. I'll let you know.

[GMan]

Lets us know.

 

If you have an electric meter you could do some continuity testing and know for sure before adding any power. If not it shouldn't harm anything to run with the black wire on either LOAD1 or LOAD2, as they should just produce different results.

 

I agree with BruiseAndy that if the schematic is in the "de-enerized" state ... LOAD2 would be the correct connection for your desires.

 

What does the "Normal" operation schematic look like? Is it just like this schematic with LOAD1 and LOAD2 swapped? If so ... LOAD2 would seem to be correct.

[BruiseAndy]

Lets us know.

 

If you have an electric meter you could do some continuity testing and know for sure before adding any power. If not it shouldn't harm anything to run with the black wire on either LOAD1 or LOAD2, as they should just produce different results.

 

I agree with BruiseAndy that if the schematic is in the "de-enerized" state ... LOAD2 would be the correct connection for your desires.

 

What does the "Normal" operation schematic look like? Is it just like this schematic with LOAD1 and LOAD2 swapped? If so ... LOAD2 would seem to be correct.

 

All mechanical equipments schematics are drawn in the normal, de-energized state. Yes just do it like I said, what might throw off others is the schematic is showing an electric heat element wired as an example of application. If you dont have a meter to test with you can use a 9 volt battery and test for voltage and lack thereof that way. For safety reasons I wont say how you use the battery to test with but I remember when I was little they would shock my toungue if i licked both sides so my tounge made continuity across posts.

[stallen]

Arrrrrrgh! I appreciate you guys hanging in there with me. BUT....

 

I just tried doing it the way gman described. It works perfectly as normal operation. i.e. the pump is normally off, turning the timer dial will turn on the pump. That is the oppostite of what I want it to do. So I tried BruiseAndy's suggestion which I think is the same as gman's description except I moved the hot wire from LOAD 1 to LOAD 2. With that set-up it does nothing at all. No power to the pump regardless. Any suggestions? Here are the full instructions...

 

 

 

After looking at the difference between the SPST "Normal Operation" schematic and the SPDT "Reverse Action" schematic, I see that it looks like something should be connected to "LINE 2". I just don't know what or how. Anyone care to do another photoshop on my original photo?

 

Any thoughts on this. I'm afraid to try it until somebody tells me that it looks reasonable.

 

[BruiseAndy]

Arrrrrrgh! I appreciate you guys hanging in there with me. BUT....

 

I just tried doing it the way gman described. It works perfectly as normal operation. i.e. the pump is normally off, turning the timer dial will turn on the pump. That is the oppostite of what I want it to do. So I tried BruiseAndy's suggestion which I think is the same as gman's description except I moved the hot wire from LOAD 1 to LOAD 2. With that set-up it does nothing at all. No power to the pump regardless. Any suggestions? Here are the full instructions...

 

After looking at the difference between the SPST "Normal Operation" schematic and the SPDT "Reverse Action" schematic, I see that it looks like something should be connected to "LINE 2". I just don't know what or how. Anyone care to do another photoshop on my original photo?

 

Any thoughts on this. I'm afraid to try it until somebody tells me that it looks reasonable.

 

 

 

The schematics make it much clearer now. Line two from power source. Load two hooked to outlet for pump. Weird thing is the way its worded and the way the schematic is drawn reverse action should work from either line.

[stallen]

I just don't follow exactly what you are saying. Will any of these work? I think maybe "PLAN C" is what you are describing.

 

 

PLAN A

 

 

PLAN B

 

 

PLAN C

 

[BruiseAndy]

PLAN C

 

 

 

winner winner chicken dinner

[stallen]

PLAN C Works!!!

 

 

Thanks for hangin in there with me BruiseAndy!!!!

 

I'll post a pic of it all put together as soon as I get a chance.

 

Thanks guys!!!!

[GMan]

Wow that is a little strange ... Glad it worked out in the end.

[stallen]

Thanks again guys. I'm pretty excited about this little mod!

 

[stoney waters]

Very sweet. Did the face plate already come with the knock out for the switch?

 

I've been considering adding one to my controller.

 

Nice work.

[GMan]

SWEET!

[stallen]

I ended up purchasing an additional timer at Lowe's to get the face plate I wanted. I suppose I'll find a use for the standard timer.

 

The actual timer switch I used is the FF360M which comes with a full metal faceplate:

 

 

The timer I bought from Lowe's (all FD models) comes with this faceplate:

 

 

Basically if you buy a model that starts with FF you get a silver metal full faceplate. If you by a model that starts with FD you get the "designer" plastic smaller faceplate.

 

Aside from the faceplate, the most important thing is to buy an SPDT timer for reverse action.

[Esper]

wow, thanks for the groundwork on this! i've always wanted to do this project but never wanted to muck with the wiring. thanks!

[peanut1181]

This is a REALLY old thread, but I just wanted to say thanks because this tutorial on here helped tremendously. I no longer have to crawl into the cabinet to unplug the pumps for feeding time. Excellent idea!

 

 

Peanut1181

[stallen]

This is a REALLY old thread, but I just wanted to say thanks because this tutorial on here helped tremendously. I no longer have to crawl into the cabinet to unplug the pumps for feeding time. Excellent idea!

Peanut1181

Bummer, I had to take down my tank since I was am busy with school. But I still have that timer mod packed nicely away for when I can get it all going again. That was one of my favorite mods!