175W MH mounted in Minibow hood?

[GiL]

First off would like to say hello to all my new fellow minibow reefers ) I've been registerd and reading this board for a several weeks now, and have had ideas of setting up a minibow also. I have just been studying and researching a lot before starting anything. Seeing what does and dosnt work, recommendations, experiences and such.

 

Well, i've jumped in and begun my project as well. I purchased the 7gal Minibow yesterday, and have already painted the back black.

 

For the substrate I got a bag of Southdown, plan on placing like a 1"-1.5" sandbed down. Anyone have any problems with the Southdown blowing around? Any opinions on wether I should raise or lower the depth of the sandbed?

 

For circulation I rigged up a CPR BPII that I have. I replaced the rio with a MJ600, without the venturi, so its only pumping water, thus giving me a place for the heater inside the Bakpak and a little extra water volume. I've restricted the flow on the output so I get a nice strong flow, and no bubbles. However, I wonder if it is worth the hassle, it looks kind of obtrusive in the tank, but I keep wondering that it has to beat a downspout, powerhead, and heater in the tank. What do you all think? Has anyone else tried this?

 

My last statement/question is as my subject states, I mounted a 175W AB 10K MH with IC ballast (equipment i've had from previous setup) in the minibow hood. I strapped the mogule bulb in there from the base (ceramic part). I havent fired it up yet, nor have i installed any fans or form of ventilation in the hood yet. This is why i am here to ask some questions on this idea before proceeding. First off, does anyone believe this might be overkill? Even with fans, i believe the heat this bulb might generate may cook the little minibow hood, as well as the water and anything in it. I didnt really want to construct a hood, and was only trying this because i have the parts around, would it be wiser and safer to just go with the Retro SmartLight Kit.

 

By the way, this was supposed to be simple setup, and most of the equipment I am attempting to use are items from a previous setup that I had. I was forced to take down that setup due to a move. I was planning on keeping one small fish, and some very simple corals, like xenia, zoo's, room's, and perhaps a brain. Would my setup as i have it be too much for these corals?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but I just want to get some other peoples thoughts and suggestions on my ideas, and to also describe to you the progress of my setup. Thank you in advance!

[chele]

Gil,

I'm very new to SW (with a 55g) and only have a 10g nano just getting stock right now.. So take this FWIW..

I have to agree that 175w on a 7g is way way way on the side of overkill!! I've often read that between 3 and 6 w/G is recommended with most all corals, inverts, and fish.. A few may require 8w/G.. But what you're talking about is 25w/G!! I doubt your corals will do well, or even survive! If I were you.. I would reconsider your lighting plans...

JMHO,

Chele

[Korbin]

Do you plan on keeping water in this tank?

 

I would get a pendant and hang it high above.

[Xwhite]

That MH bulb will, quite literally, melt that hood if it's made out of plastic. I think if you turned that light on for any period of time, you would be looking at a fire.

 

John

[zizmans]

d00d, (hey espi) , I have a 7gal bow and I have 36 watts on it. A metal halide in my opinion is only valid if you are doing clams, and even then 175 WATTS.H-o*lY sh**it, that's alot of sunshine. OK you have 7 gallons of water, let's be safe and say you need 5 watts per gallon for most things..that's still only 35 watts. OK let's be pesimistic and say 10 watts per gallon, that's still only 70. 175 watts is massive, are you going to put it 10 feet above your tank? Now don't get me wrong. The gallonwatt ratio is only important to what you put in the tank and I'm sure there are many who might disagree. Let us know what you want for life in your tank, you might be reading too much into the wrong threads.

[GiL]

It was just an idea...I know these bulbs do get hot, even with plenty of ventilation. I looks awesome though, I wish I had a camera to show you guys how i fit this thing in the hood, looks almost built-in Too bad it wouldnt work, i think i might just go ahead and get the Retro Smartlight.

 

Heres another idea, if I do decide to build my own hood, and get two 32W lights. Should I get two of the CSL SmartLight Kits or just run two PC's off a ballast. For the bulbs, would it be better going with 1 -10K and 1-10k/Actinic or two of the 10k/actinic. I've read about these hellolights being pretty well recommended, if i were to do this second option i could go for these bulbs.

[freakaccident]

If you already have MH then use it. Build a cheap hood and hang it from the ceiling. MH is the way to go.

[kalare]

175w is not too much for a 7 gal...as a rule of thumb, i do not believe that there is any such thing as too much light nor is there a watt per gallon ratio. Do not believe in watt per gallon ratios, they are ballpark and usually false. If i were to suggest some sort of rule of thumb, it would be based on tank depth. As a minimum amount of light 175w halides should work on tanks up to 18" deep, 150w on anything up to 24" deep and so on. If u are willing to make a custom enclosure for the halide with good cooling i would recommend using the halide. It is by far the best type of lighting available for the reef, nano or not. If u do not however plan to keep sps or clams, u dont need it and can get away with a couple PC's. However, the halides will still create more lush growth and color for softies, so its up to you how much you want to do. When i started out around 15 years ago, i went through about 5 fixtures till i finaly broke down and bought halides, believe me, you'll be happier with them.

[freakaccident]

Im going MH as soon as I have the $$. PCs have no nutz.

[DLN]

I have nutz....

[Dave ESPI]

It is not about Watts per gallon, it is about proper environmental needs of what you wish to keep.

I WOULD HIGHLY RECC NOT USING THE PLASTIC HOOD !

Go to a custom glass shop, and have a solid 3/16th plate glass top cut with a partial radius to fit the top of the tank. This will be 4 things, Dust shield, U/V protection, and prevent splashing and Evaporation.

The 175 W halide is fine, thou your corals will most certainly need some ramp up time to get acclimated to the intensity. SPS and many other corals may turn a darker brown as they eccentialy "Close the Blinds" to block the intense light. Once acclimated, some light loving corals will retain the brilliant colors. Try Riccordia mushrooms, and some species of Zoos as well as Encrusting Gorgonians, Favia, and Montiporas as they tend to grow in shallow reef patches of less than 15 feet of water often.

 

See "The Dancing Bear" d00d as he runs 400 Waters on his 20 H.

 

As to your CPR, the VENTURI is what supplies the skimmer air to fractionate against. I hope you realize the more air and more contact time, the better the skimmer will perform.

 

The sand.

Is cool. Try to add some mixed grain size aragonite, and some GOOD live sand (The kind that has actual LIFE in it) shoot for 2-3 inches sloped back to front. The oolitic does indeed blow around. Quite annoyingly at times of maintnance.

[Iphantom]

I agree that 175 watt 10k MH is WAAAY too much for a 7 gallon

I am getting a 175watt MH 10k for my 20 gallon high and even that is quite high and I have to hang it pretty high above the tank

I whould personaly advice high watt PCs for anything under 20gallons unless you are keeping something that really needs this (clams)

also plastic hood+MH=FIRE!

if you do it go with glass a pendent and hang it really high

-Matt