Eclipse Hood Twinlight PC conversion

[MrConclusion]

This conversion is easy, effective, and cheap. Mine has been running for almost a year with no problems. The down side is, no great reflector, but at least the lights are close to the surface.

 

The first thing you should know is that PC ballasts aren't special. The expensive ballasts sold at aquarium suppliers are just re-packaged, standard fluorescent ballasts. Electronic ballasts are preferred. Any ballast which is rated to drive (for example) two 96-watt t12 (8 foot normal fluorescent) bulbs will drive two 96-watt PC (3 foot) bulbs without a hiccup. And it costs about $20 at Home Depot!

 

Some people will tell you that this is not correct, but they're wrong. Any doubters can check out my systems before they say I'm wrong. Or ask a lighting technician.

 

So to get started, here's your material list:

1x Eclipse 1 or 2 twinlight hood ($80)

2x 28 or 32 watt PC bulbs with square pin pattern ($40-50)

2x Circline single lamp OR 1x Circline dual lamp ballast.

....(I used 2 Magnetec 445-XXX-XXX ballasts) (2x$7)

1x Electronic ballast for 2x32 watt t8 or t12 lamps

....(I used a GE?Magnetec B232l120RH) ($14)

....(Also the Advance REL-series for 2x32watt is good)

1x 3M Electrical Tape (there is a difference - $2)

6x Small wire nuts ($1)

4x Wire Ties ($1)

[MrConclusion]

Oops, I forgot something from the parts list!

 

1x 6-foot length of 4-conductor, 18-gauge wire.

...(This is easily available at Home Depot. There is some nice red-colored wire sold as "fire alarm wire" or something, and that works great.)

1x Small, very short, self-tapping sheet metal screw

 

OK, now take the light-and-door-unit off of the eclipse hood. One of the hinge pins pulls out (the white one) which allows the other to slip out, too. If you can't pull this off without a diagram, you shouldn't be playing with electricity. Don't lose the white pin!

 

Now take off the clear lens. There are two white screws that need 1/4 turn to release... then lift off the lens. Don't lose the screws! They will fall out when you move or bump the lens!

 

Now unscrew the metal "reflector" and remove all of the wiring. Don't cut anything - it's unnecessary. Be careful removing the endcaps, so that you can reinstall them later. Keep this whole old wiring system tucked away somewhere, it makes a great emergency replacement lighting system.

 

Here's what you've got, and the power cord and ballast are still attached:

[MrConclusion]

Now get out your two single-circline-ballasts or your one dual-circline-ballast. Cut the socket-endcaps off, they are the bulb sockets you need. Leave as much wire on the sockets as you can. Trash the ballast(s) - circline ballasts won't run PC lights.

 

I know this seems wasteful, but I've seen the sockets selling for $12 on the internet, plus shipping.

[MrConclusion]

Now put the sockets where they're needed:

[MrConclusion]

Your electronic ballast has three bulb wires. Usually two red and one blue, but that isn't important. One red (or whatever color you have 2 of) goes to each bulb, and the other one gets split and sent to each bulb. Splice the 4-conductor wire to the ballast lamp wires, take this opportunity to split the single (whatever color) wire into two of the 4-conductor wire's strands.

 

Here's the wiring diagram:

[MrConclusion]

Attach the sockets:

[MrConclusion]

Secure with wire nuts:

[MrConclusion]

And seal securely with electrical tape:

[MrConclusion]

At the ballast end, you will hook 4 conductors to the three ballast leads:

[MrConclusion]

And secure with wire nuts:

[MrConclusion]

Get an old extention cord and cut off as much as you need to supply power to the ballast. Do not miswire the hot and neutral leads! If you don't know, go to Home Depot and some guy will sell you a cord and socket, and show you which end is for the white (neutral) wire and which is for the hot (black) wire.

 

Secure this to the ballast with wire nuts, and then tape everything.

[MrConclusion]

Now you can install the bulbs! Use wire ties to hold them in place, but leave the wire ties loose so that the bulbs can move. The lens will push them into the right place when you put it back on.

[MrConclusion]

Put the lens back on and you're in business!

 

Test the lights before you get them near water. If they don't light immediately (electronic ballasts are instant-starting) unplug it and check your wiring pattern and connections.

 

I recommend a simple ($10) plug-in timer from Home Depot to act as the on-off switch.

[MrConclusion]

Here are the lights working properly - now you have better than 6 watts per gallon! I left it down for this photo, but I would strongly recommend screwing the ballast to the wall, or enclosing it, so that a salt water spill doesn't create damage or danger.

 

Questions?

[reefphreak]

Cool ! Very cool!