GuyontheCouch Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Well, my first attempt at a pico ended this weekend. HA and Cyno were rediculous. Good thing i didnt have any corals or fish in the tank, I only lost 3 lbs of rock and an astrea snail. So Im thinking about giving it another go, this time, with a sand bed. (last attempt was a bare bottom) I was just wondering if i could get any suggestions from your guys for my tank. Im going to be running an AC 20 filter. Should I do the fuge conversion i read so much about? What do i keep in it, and how do i light it? And also, what type of heater should i use? Salt brand?? ( I hear instand ocean is not that great, perhaps oceanic??) My lighting is going to be the coralife 18 watt PC fixture. Any help would be great! Link to comment
CGNano Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I use Oceanic and I love it. Lighting is fine, I used one myself. Make sure you have good algae-eaters. Also, get very high-quality rock for your pico. Nuisance Algae's wrath is amplified by the small size of the aquarium. In my 2.5 Harlequin Pico I use a sandbed of Gray Coast reef sand by Seachem. I love it now that it's clean. The only thing I don't like about it is how long it took to clean. Link to comment
GuyontheCouch Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 CGNano, thanks for the reply. For a sand bed i was thinking about using some dry sand left from my 75 gal reef, and seeding it with maybe 1 or 2 lbs of live sand. What would you suggest for "good algae eaters"? I live in a sad, sad area, and most of the lfs offer astrea snails(but dont worry, they label them turbos) Same goes for the rock. I gotta take my chances. Ill keep everybopdy posted. Link to comment
SaVeThEeELs Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 your water was probably contaminated w/ soap....or did you use tap??.....i got tide residue in my pico from me hand washing ma work clothes....its all neon green! kinda neat but not the direction i was goin.....i got mac algea fighting it off at the moment....so far only one casualty....a chiton died from the tempature dropping to 60! i need a heater.....my picotope is also an attempt to regrow my tanks.... Link to comment
GuyontheCouch Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 I was using bottled water for everything, and im thinking that was a big mistake. Since then i bought an RODI unit, so water quality shouldnt be an issue. I found a heater in a lfs, its a tetra 50 watt. It says its for tanks 2-15 gallons. on the plus side, its only like 4 1/2 inches long. On the negative, its already set at 78 degrees, meaning i cannot adjust the temp. (that might be a good thing though.) About the AC20, should i mod it to the fuge? and if i do, what should i put in there, and would i light it??? Link to comment
AVALover5498 Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 The best brand of salt to use would be reefcrystals. There was a study done on salt and instant-ocean was the worst. Link to comment
GuyontheCouch Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 Thats funny how instant ocean is the worst, but its probably the most recognized salt available. (At least in my area) I was thinking about putting a few pieces of rubble in the compartment of my AC20. Would this be a good idea? Would i have to light this small compartment?? Link to comment
CGNano Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 GuyontheCouch, why don't you try ordering your supplies online? Link to comment
Daemonfly Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 IO is more for general saltwater (FO tanks, etc..), with reef crystals being their "reef" version. I still hate either one, as they leave behind too many undisolvables in the bottom of the bucket. I use Oceanic as it's cheap, mixes very well, and is high in calcium. A bit low in alkalinity & iodine, but I mix some in when I make it. Many other good salts too. There's a bunch of Salt-brand threads around here already anyway. Imho, AC20s (the Minis, right?) are too small to go with lighting, more of a pain than anything. Have fun getting lighting to fit easily, then after that, trim chaeto quite often due to it easily out-growing such a small space. I usually just fill it with LR rubble if I were to use any HOBs that small. Another option is to use an AC 300 (whatever it's new moniker is), but put in an impeller from an AC Mini. You get the lower flow, but larger space, and could then run a lit fuge. ONly thing you have to do is come up with a new screen for the intake, or cut the stuck intake tube to about 5/8 below the turn, so you can fit the stock piece onto that and actually have it fit in a 2.5g. As for heaters, I always just use the 25w Hagen Thermals(I think thats the name). They're small and I've never had oen go bad yet. Link to comment
GuyontheCouch Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 Not just a bump, but also a slight update!! I'm simply waiting to get the salinity up to where it needs to be, no rushing this time. , before i get some LS and LR. I was walking through petsmart and noticed small LED lights by Marina, and i wondered if anybody has used them if they were any good. There was a 3 way unit there that i was considering. 2 for the blue LEDs for moonlights, and perhaps one white LED for the AC20 compartment. Anyone know about these lights?? Link to comment
Hekim Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 You might consider using Purigen (or simular) in the AC20 to reduce nitrates and phos, cheap, easy and no lights required. Link to comment
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