Maintaining Water Parameters

[Wizzy]

I am in the process of setting up a 40 gallon DT, 40 Gallon Sump, and 20 gallon Long chaeto refugium/kriesel tank (All plumbed together).

 

I'm new to having to actively maintain my water parameters (only ever kept soft coral/nano tanks).

 

I am concerned with how I'll maintain my water parameters for corals such as SPS/LPS and clams.

 

Are Calcium, Magnesium, and Alkalinity the elements I need to worry about?

 

What's the best way to maintain these elements?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[lakshwadeep]

Yes. For supplementation, a DIY three part dosing method would be useful and inexpensive.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

[Wizzy]

Yes. For supplementation, a DIY three part dosing method would be useful and inexpensive.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

 

Thanks for the link

 

I'll try to read the whole article, but at a glance I have a few concerns.

 

Is the DIY recipe any different than what you could purchase from a big name company?

 

Should I be concerned about the quality of something I am making myself and whether it is safe to put in my aquarium?

 

On another note, does a calcium reactor supply these 3 elements or only calcium?

 

What other methods, besides 3 part dosing, can supplement my tank with these elements?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[altolamprologus]

Besides dosing, pretty much the only way to keep up with demand is to do a lot of water changes. I dose 2 part B-ionic and brightwell magnesion (liquid magnesium). After a while, you get used to how much your tank consumes daily and you only need to test water once a week or so.

 

IMO big SPS tanks aren't very hard to take care of. Just make sure you get a good skimmer, keep up on dosing, and do regular water changes

[Wizzy]

Besides dosing, pretty much the only way to keep up with demand is to do a lot of water changes. I dose 2 part B-ionic and brightwell magnesion (liquid magnesium). After a while, you get used to how much your tank consumes daily and you only need to test water once a week or so.

 

IMO big SPS tanks aren't very hard to take care of. Just make sure you get a good skimmer, keep up on dosing, and do regular water changes

 

Knowing this, who can recommend the best products I should dose my tank with?

 

Also, what's the best way to automate this process. If I get to the point where I need to dose I don't want to have to do this manually.

 

I am planning on only starting to dose when/if my corals start consuming more calc/alk/mag then my water has.

[wombat]

I make my own salt and never have to worry about adding Mg. It is always on the high side around 1350-1400ppm. YMMV.

 

Calcium reactors will not supply a significant amount of Mg if you are dissolving aragonite media. They do supply calcium and alkalinity. These are used up way faster by corals. You can add a bit of a media called dolomite to add some Mg if you like.

 

I have always found it very simple to use a peristaltic pump to add a kalkwasser/vinegar solution for Ca/Alk and then manual additions of Mg if needed like once a month or so based on testing. You should be aware that hobby test kits are going to be within 10% of the actual concentration of calcium and magnesium, on a good day.

 

If a tank is really high demand SPS then I add a calcium reactor, but for me they are really an unnecessary complication and expense.

[Wizzy]

I make my own salt and never have to worry about adding Mg. It is always on the high side around 1350-1400ppm. YMMV.

 

Calcium reactors will not supply a significant amount of Mg if you are dissolving aragonite media. They do supply calcium and alkalinity. These are used up way faster by corals. You can add a bit of a media called dolomite to add some Mg if you like.

 

I have always found it very simple to use a peristaltic pump to add a kalkwasser/vinegar solution for Ca/Alk and then manual additions of Mg if needed like once a month or so based on testing. You should be aware that hobby test kits are going to be within 10% of the actual concentration of calcium and magnesium, on a good day.

 

If a tank is really high demand SPS then I add a calcium reactor, but for me they are really an unnecessary complication and expense.

 

You make your own salt?

 

And then how does dosing compare to calcium reactors as far as cost?

 

I'd rather pay more up front and not have to worry about continued costs as much.

 

What sort of media would I put in a calcium reactor and how much SPS would I need to have before one became necessary?

[wombat]

The only continuing cost with kalkwasser dosing is to pay for the calcium hydroxide powder and, optionally, vinegar if you prefer to add it. These are both probably less than a dollar a month for a system your size. The upfront cost is the cost of the dosing pump and any associated plumbing, the jugs, etc. You can do it right for around $120.

 

Calcium reactors vary a lot in price but for a good small one you are looking at several hundred dollars. Plus a CO2 tank, reg, pH meter...you're looking at around $500 for a good setup. The continuing costs include tank refills, media replacement, ph probe replacement every year, etc. These are substantial. Calcium reactors can require a lot of "fiddling" in the beginning as well.

 

Some people find that kalkwasser does not provide enough calcium/alkalinity for their tank's demands as corals grow in and get bigger. Easy solutions to this are to add a fan on the sump to increase evaporation and adding vinegar to the mix (it increases the solubility of CaOH). If that's still not enough, you can also set up a 2 part dosing system to add calcium chloride and sodium bicarbonate. This requires two dosing pumps, two timers, and the associated plumbing/jugs. You can do it right for around $200. The continuing costs are the dry salts, which are very cheap. I prefer kalkwasser dosing over this method because it 1) precipitates phosphate and removes it from solution, 2) it does not skew the ionic ratios of Na and Cl to the tank water, and 3) it raises the pH of the water. Some people skip the kalkwasser and go straight to the 2 part dosing and have great results.

 

Long story short I don't think a calcium reactor is a good choice for anything but fairly large systems.

 

You make your own salt?

 

Yup. This makes 20,000-ish gallons.

 

(a)=anhydrous salt

 

NaCl 4412lbs

MgSO4 (a) 632 lbs

MgCl2 (a) 368 lbs

CaCl2(a) 196 lbs

KCl 124 lbs

NaHCO3 35 lbs

 

H3BO3 1875 grams

SrCl2 6H2O 1730 grams

KI 11.33 grams

ZnSO4 7H2O 5.23 grams

CoSO4 7H2O 3.92 grams

MnSO4 1H2O 2.30 grams

Na2MoO4 2H2O 2.16 grams

V2O5 0.43 grams

[Wizzy]

The only continuing cost with kalkwasser dosing is to pay for the calcium hydroxide powder and, optionally, vinegar if you prefer to add it. These are both probably less than a dollar a month for a system your size. The upfront cost is the cost of the dosing pump and any associated plumbing, the jugs, etc. You can do it right for around $120.

 

Calcium reactors vary a lot in price but for a good small one you are looking at several hundred dollars. Plus a CO2 tank, reg, pH meter...you're looking at around $500 for a good setup. The continuing costs include tank refills, media replacement, ph probe replacement every year, etc. These are substantial. Calcium reactors can require a lot of "fiddling" in the beginning as well.

 

Some people find that kalkwasser does not provide enough calcium/alkalinity for their tank's demands as corals grow in and get bigger. Easy solutions to this are to add a fan on the sump to increase evaporation and adding vinegar to the mix (it increases the solubility of CaOH). If that's still not enough, you can also set up a 2 part dosing system to add calcium chloride and sodium bicarbonate. This requires two dosing pumps, two timers, and the associated plumbing/jugs. You can do it right for around $200. The continuing costs are the dry salts, which are very cheap. I prefer kalkwasser dosing over this method because it 1) precipitates phosphate and removes it from solution, 2) it does not skew the ionic ratios of Na and Cl to the tank water, and 3) it raises the pH of the water. Some people skip the kalkwasser and go straight to the 2 part dosing and have great results.

 

Long story short I don't think a calcium reactor is a good choice for anything but fairly large systems.

 

 

 

Yup. This makes 20,000-ish gallons.

 

(a)=anhydrous salt

 

NaCl 4412lbs

MgSO4 (a) 632 lbs

MgCl2 (a) 368 lbs

CaCl2(a) 196 lbs

KCl 124 lbs

NaHCO3 35 lbs

 

H3BO3 1875 grams

SrCl2 6H2O 1730 grams

KI 11.33 grams

ZnSO4 7H2O 5.23 grams

CoSO4 7H2O 3.92 grams

MnSO4 1H2O 2.30 grams

Na2MoO4 2H2O 2.16 grams

V2O5 0.43 grams

 

Wow, 20,000 gallons is a lot of water

 

But as far the dosing goes, you've sold me on the Kalkwasser/Vinegar method.

 

I am planning a mixed reef, so I don't know how much SPS I'll have as of yet.

 

Do you recommend I dose from the start or wait until my calc/alk/mag levels start dropping?

 

I also have no idea what sort of hydroxide powder/vinegar I should be using and how I would add it to the tank?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[wombat]

Wow, 20,000 gallons is a lot of water

 

But as far the dosing goes, you've sold me on the Kalkwasser/Vinegar method.

 

I am planning a mixed reef, so I don't know how much SPS I'll have as of yet.

 

Do you recommend I dose from the start or wait until my calc/alk/mag levels start dropping?

 

I also have no idea what sort of hydroxide powder/vinegar I should be using and how I would add it to the tank?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

 

I would not dose right from the start, necessarily. Let your water testing guide when to start dosing. You certainly want to start slow when you do start because the demand for Ca/Alk will not be high.

 

For the calcium hydroxide (Ca[OH]2) powder, you want to buy what is commonly called "pickling lime". It is sold as a food ingredient by Mrs. Wages and Ball. You can pick it up at Wal-Mart and other places. Very cheap. You can also pick up the calcium hydroxide at BRS:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...lcium-hydroxide

For the vinegar, you just want common white distilled vinegar. Do not use any other type.

 

Here is a good article on how best to mix up the vinegar and calcium hydroxide:

http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html

(Note that you mix the vinegar and CaOH together before adding to water.)

 

The acetate in vinegar will act as an organic carbon source and fuel bacterial growth. For more on how this works, see here:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

The prerequisite for this type of dosing is that you have a very good skimmer. It will remove the bacterial cells and N and P along with them. This is very effective at keeping N and P low if done properly.

 

Having said all that you can just skip the vinegar part and just do calcium hydroxide. It really depends on what works best for you and your system.

 

As for how to add it, the best solution for me has been to use a peristaltic dosing pump. This is a good one:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...per-minute.html

It will add about a gallon per hour once you account for head loss. The way you control how much it adds per day is via a light timer. I like the ones that you can easily change on 15 minute intervals. You can get fancy and start adding things like float switches and such, but these are not really necessities.

[Wizzy]

I would not dose right from the start, necessarily. Let your water testing guide when to start dosing. You certainly want to start slow when you do start because the demand for Ca/Alk will not be high.

 

For the calcium hydroxide (Ca[OH]2) powder, you want to buy what is commonly called "pickling lime". It is sold as a food ingredient by Mrs. Wages and Ball. You can pick it up at Wal-Mart and other places. Very cheap. You can also pick up the calcium hydroxide at BRS:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...lcium-hydroxide

For the vinegar, you just want common white distilled vinegar. Do not use any other type.

 

Here is a good article on how best to mix up the vinegar and calcium hydroxide:

http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html

(Note that you mix the vinegar and CaOH together before adding to water.)

 

The acetate in vinegar will act as an organic carbon source and fuel bacterial growth. For more on how this works, see here:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

The prerequisite for this type of dosing is that you have a very good skimmer. It will remove the bacterial cells and N and P along with them. This is very effective at keeping N and P low if done properly.

 

Having said all that you can just skip the vinegar part and just do calcium hydroxide. It really depends on what works best for you and your system.

 

As for how to add it, the best solution for me has been to use a peristaltic dosing pump. This is a good one:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...per-minute.html

It will add about a gallon per hour once you account for head loss. The way you control how much it adds per day is via a light timer. I like the ones that you can easily change on 15 minute intervals. You can get fancy and start adding things like float switches and such, but these are not really necessities.

 

Thanks!

 

But, how do I get other elements (Alk/Mag) up?

 

Also, how much of this powder do you think I would go through on a 100 gallon system?

 

Sump/Kriesel=60 gallons with a 40 Gallon DT full of SPS?

 

And how do I add this to my system?

 

Do I just let it drip into my sump or do I add it to my Top off Water?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[wombat]

Thanks!

 

But, how do I get other elements (Alk/Mag) up?

 

Also, how much of this powder do you think I would go through on a 100 gallon system?

 

Sump/Kriesel=60 gallons with a 40 Gallon DT full of SPS?

 

And how do I add this to my system?

 

Do I just let it drip into my sump or do I add it to my Top off Water?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

 

Calcium hydroxide will add calcium AND alkalinity (in the form of carbonate/bicarbonate).

 

Generally people who use it make all their top off additions with kalkwasser; I have no idea how much that would be on your system but probably somewhere around 2 gallons a day would be a good upper estimate. If you added this as concentrated kalkwasser you'd be fine even with a fairly heavy load of stony corals.

 

You NEED to add kalkwasser slowly, thus my recommendation for a dosing pump. It has a high pH (around 12). You can't just dump it in all at once. You will want to drip it in slowly in an area of high water motion that is not near a pump intake (it will precipitate on the impeller as calcium carbonate). An ideal location is in your overflow box or in the area where the water dumps into your sump.

 

Magnesium can be added separately as a salt, you can pour the crystals right into your sump. Magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate in a 7:1 ratio are pretty standard. Like I said, I never add magnesium and its concentration is rock solid even in SPS heavy tanks. Just buy a good quality salt like Reef Crystals.

[Mojorizn]

I use the bulk three part from Bulk Reef Supply ( had it for over 2 years and still have a few months left ) plus two BRS dosing pumps on my RKL controller.

 

Works for me. I do WC's frequently and have only needed to add Mg a couple times.

 

I'm dosing ~ 28ml each of Cal/Alk over 24 hours to maintain 9-10dkh / 440 cal

[Wizzy]

Calcium hydroxide will add calcium AND alkalinity (in the form of carbonate/bicarbonate).

 

Generally people who use it make all their top off additions with kalkwasser; I have no idea how much that would be on your system but probably somewhere around 2 gallons a day would be a good upper estimate. If you added this as concentrated kalkwasser you'd be fine even with a fairly heavy load of stony corals.

 

You NEED to add kalkwasser slowly, thus my recommendation for a dosing pump. It has a high pH (around 12). You can't just dump it in all at once. You will want to drip it in slowly in an area of high water motion that is not near a pump intake (it will precipitate on the impeller as calcium carbonate). An ideal location is in your overflow box or in the area where the water dumps into your sump.

 

Magnesium can be added separately as a salt, you can pour the crystals right into your sump. Magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate in a 7:1 ratio are pretty standard. Like I said, I never add magnesium and its concentration is rock solid even in SPS heavy tanks. Just buy a good quality salt like Reef Crystals.

 

 

I use the bulk three part from Bulk Reef Supply ( had it for over 2 years and still have a few months left ) plus two BRS dosing pumps on my RKL controller.

 

Works for me. I do WC's frequently and have only needed to add Mg a couple times.

 

I'm dosing ~ 28ml each of Cal/Alk over 24 hours to maintain 9-10dkh / 440 cal

 

Ok, so if add the Kalkwasser /Vinegar solution into my top off container won't it precipitate onto the impeller of my ATO pump?

 

And if I use a separate container and a dosing pump do I need to mix the kalk/vinegar water at all?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[wombat]

Ok, so if add the Kalkwasser /Vinegar solution into my top off container won't it precipitate onto the impeller of my ATO pump?

 

Eh, it shouldn't. I've had centrifugal pumps in kalk for years.

 

But, I have to reiterate that you really do not want an ATO pump to add kalk to your tank. It will spike your pH. You really need like a drip-drip-drip rate of flow. You can do this with an ATO pump, but you have to use a needle valve or something to pinch the flow back.

 

The other problem with adding kalk via an ATO system is the "what if" scenarios--your skimmer puts water on the floor, or you pull a gallon of water out of your tank to move a coral, or you get a slow leak--all of a sudden you are adding that missing amount in kalk. This is not a good thing and the genesis of many tank crashes. A dosing pump on a timer will add the same amount of kalk every day, no matter what happens. The only way it can fail is to not add enough, which is not a disaster. This is the safest set up.

 

And if I use a separate container and a dosing pump do I need to mix the kalk/vinegar water at all?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

 

You should always mix up the kalk and vinegar in a small container beforehand, then add it to your DI water in the jug.

[Mojorizn]

A dosing pump on a timer will add the same amount of kalk every day, no matter what happens. The only way it can fail is to not add enough, which is not a disaster. This is the safest set up.

 

This is why I do not dose via top off (ato). There are people who have done it that way(ato) for years without issue. For me, having a controller, the separate peristaltic pumps and containers make the most sense.

 

Ok, so if add the Kalkwasser /Vinegar solution into my top off container won't it precipitate onto the impeller of my ATO pump?

 

An Aqualifter is a great way to run an ato. Much better than a powerhead.

[Wizzy]

Eh, it shouldn't. I've had centrifugal pumps in kalk for years.

 

But, I have to reiterate that you really do not want an ATO pump to add kalk to your tank. It will spike your pH. You really need like a drip-drip-drip rate of flow. You can do this with an ATO pump, but you have to use a needle valve or something to pinch the flow back.

 

The other problem with adding kalk via an ATO system is the "what if" scenarios--your skimmer puts water on the floor, or you pull a gallon of water out of your tank to move a coral, or you get a slow leak--all of a sudden you are adding that missing amount in kalk. This is not a good thing and the genesis of many tank crashes. A dosing pump on a timer will add the same amount of kalk every day, no matter what happens. The only way it can fail is to not add enough, which is not a disaster. This is the safest set up.

 

 

 

You should always mix up the kalk and vinegar in a small container beforehand, then add it to your DI water in the jug.

 

 

This is why I do not dose via top off (ato). There are people who have done it that way(ato) for years without issue. For me, having a controller, the separate peristaltic pumps and containers make the most sense.

 

 

 

An Aqualifter is a great way to run an ato. Much better than a powerhead.

 

Ok, so sounds like having a single/separate jug full of RO/DI water, Vinegar, and Kalkwasser is the way to go.

 

I would then "drip drip drip" it into my sump via a peristaltic dosing pump.

 

Do I need to keep the RO/DI water, Vinegar, and Kalkwasser solution circulated w/a pump?

 

And how do I determine how much to "drip drip drip" into my tank?

 

Do I just start small and work my way up (testing my water as I go)?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

 

 

P.S. Since the solution can precipitate onto the impeller of my pumps, where is the best place to drip it?

 

I am planning on having a drilled tank, so no overflow box.

 

I will most likely have a sump where the first section has a Carbon + GFO reactor and either an external or internal skimmer.

 

The next section will be a frag section and the final section will be where my return pump is.

 

I don't want to expose my skimmer's pump to calcium carbonate, I don't want to expose frags to the solution, and I don't want to expose my return pump to calcium carbonate.

 

Where can I safely introduce the solution to my tank?

[wombat]

This is why I do not dose via top off (ato). There are people who have done it that way(ato) for years without issue. For me, having a controller, the separate peristaltic pumps and containers make the most sense.

 

An Aqualifter is a great way to run an ato. Much better than a powerhead.

 

Agreed on both.

 

There is also a hybrid method--you use a peristaltic pump to add water, but it is limited by a float switch like an ATO. So for instance if the maximum evaporation loss you might have in a day is 2 gallons, you set the dosing pump to always add 2 gallons per day. If your tank evaporates less than that, the float switch will stop the pump from adding more. However, (and this is where so many tank disasters happen) if the float switch fails, or the sump loses water for some random reason, the pump will still only add a maximum of 2 gallons. Equally safe but a bit more convenient if you don't want to monitor your sump level as frequently.

[Wizzy]

Agreed on both.

 

There is also a hybrid method--you use a peristaltic pump to add water, but it is limited by a float switch like an ATO. So for instance if the maximum evaporation loss you might have in a day is 2 gallons, you set the dosing pump to always add 2 gallons per day. If your tank evaporates less than that, the float switch will stop the pump from adding more. However, (and this is where so many tank disasters happen) if the float switch fails, or the sump loses water for some random reason, the pump will still only add a maximum of 2 gallons. Equally safe but a bit more convenient if you don't want to monitor your sump level as frequently.

 

Interesting, may look into that.

 

I'll probably end up buying something like the Tunze Osmolator if I end up dosing.

 

That way I can slowly fill my aquarium with the dosing solution via peristaltic pump and not worry about a float switch failing on my ATO water.

 

How bad would it be to dose the solution next to my skimmers/reactors?

 

Would a good vinegar cleaning once or twice a year be enough to keep everything free of calcium carbonate?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

 

P.S. why is an AquaLifter pump better than using something like a maxi jet?

[wombat]

Do I need to keep the RO/DI water, Vinegar, and Kalkwasser solution circulated w/a pump?

 

No, you don't want to do that. Just leave it still and keep it covered.

 

How bad would it be to dose the solution next to my skimmers/reactors?

 

P.S. why is an AquaLifter pump better than using something like a maxi jet?

 

You basically just want it to be as diluted as possible before it comes into contact with a pump intake. If you have a non-recirculating skimmer, dosing it into the skimmer works well. If you have a recirculating skimmer, you can add it to the outflow of the skimmer. Don't submerge the tubing! It will just precipitate and clog up.

 

Aqualifters and peristaltic pumps work better than a centrifugal pump like a Maxi jet because they can run dry and it's not a problem. They also tend to be much lower flow which is perfect for this application. Centrifugal pumps are intended to move a lot of water. You need something that moves very little water.

[Wizzy]

No, you don't want to do that. Just leave it still and keep it covered.

 

 

 

You basically just want it to be as diluted as possible before it comes into contact with a pump intake. If you have a non-recirculating skimmer, dosing it into the skimmer works well. If you have a recirculating skimmer, you can add it to the outflow of the skimmer. Don't submerge the tubing! It will just precipitate and clog up.

 

Aqualifters and peristaltic pumps work better than a centrifugal pump like a Maxi jet because they can run dry and it's not a problem. They also tend to be much lower flow which is perfect for this application. Centrifugal pumps are intended to move a lot of water. You need something that moves very little water.

 

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense and I'll probably dose at the out flow of my skimmer.

 

I'm considering upgrading to a 120 DT with larger sump (exact size still undecided) along with the 20 long plumbed off to the side.

 

My total system volume would probably be around 200-250 gallons (about 180 gallons would probably to dedicated to coral growth; frag tank in sump/DT).

 

Would you still recommend I dose the Kalkwasser way or is a Calcium Reactor the more efficient/cost effective way to go on a larger system?

 

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[wombat]

Kalk alone works well for me on a lot of systems, even big ones. I only feel the need to use a calcium reactor on tanks where the stony coral biomass is so great that alkalinity will drop below about 3.0 meq/L on a regular basis. I think this is equivalent to 8dKH or so. I try to keep alkalinity between 3.5 - 4.0 meq/L.

 

For what it's worth I would let your alkalinity tests guide these decisions, not calcium. Calcium is much harder to measure accurately, and even on the low end there is plenty of it for stony coral growth. Keeping alkalinity stable and high are much more important IME.

[Wizzy]

Kalk alone works well for me on a lot of systems, even big ones. I only feel the need to use a calcium reactor on tanks where the stony coral biomass is so great that alkalinity will drop below about 3.0 meq/L on a regular basis. I think this is equivalent to 8dKH or so. I try to keep alkalinity between 3.5 - 4.0 meq/L.

 

For what it's worth I would let your alkalinity tests guide these decisions, not calcium. Calcium is much harder to measure accurately, and even on the low end there is plenty of it for stony coral growth. Keeping alkalinity stable and high are much more important IME.

 

Do you think that something like a Kalk Stirrer would be beneficial?

 

If I was just dosing via a jug how large of a jug could I use (so I wouldn't have to change it constantly)?

 

Would the quality of the mix be affected if I left it for an extended period of time untouched?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

[wombat]

Do you think that something like a Kalk Stirrer would be beneficial?

 

If I was just dosing via a jug how large of a jug could I use (so I wouldn't have to change it constantly)?

 

Would the quality of the mix be affected if I left it for an extended period of time untouched?

 

Thanks- Wizzy

 

Good questions. In short: Unnecessary, as large as you want, and depends (but mostly no).

 

Here is a good article:

Degradation of Limewater in Air, by Randy Holmes-Farley

 

Kalkwasser (limewater) will keep its "potency" indefinitely under the following conditions: 1) The solution is super saturated with calcium hydroxide and 2) CO2 exchange with the atmosphere is minimized.

 

You satisfy condition 1 by adding a little over 2tsps of CaOH powder per gallon of water. You satisfy condition 2 by leaving the container undisturbed and covered. Kalkwasser will form a surface "skin" of calcium carbonate that basically creates a barrier against gas exchange with the solution. So under these conditions you can make a container of kalkwasser that will last a month if you like.

 

I use containers like these, but just about any food safe plastic container will work. A 10g glass tank with a piece of glass or acrylic to cover it is cheap and easy too.

[Wizzy]

Good questions. In short: Unnecessary, as large as you want, and depends (but mostly no).

 

Here is a good article:

Degradation of Limewater in Air, by Randy Holmes-Farley

 

Kalkwasser (limewater) will keep its "potency" indefinitely under the following conditions: 1) The solution is super saturated with calcium hydroxide and 2) CO2 exchange with the atmosphere is minimized.

 

You satisfy condition 1 by adding a little over 2tsps of CaOH powder per gallon of water. You satisfy condition 2 by leaving the container undisturbed and covered. Kalkwasser will form a surface "skin" of calcium carbonate that basically creates a barrier against gas exchange with the solution. So under these conditions you can make a container of kalkwasser that will last a month if you like.

 

I use containers like these, but just about any food safe plastic container will work. A 10g glass tank with a piece of glass or acrylic to cover it is cheap and easy too.

 

Would I have to worry about the container growing algae if it is clear?

 

As long as the container is clean when I put the solution in it there shouldn't be any algae spores in it, right?

 

Thanks- Wizzy