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Clowns fought off ich in-tank without treatment - now what?


Dylan.N

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Last weekend I noticed white spots on my clowns and knew it was ich. I was still in the process of coming up with a treatment plan a few days ago when I noticed the clowns looked much better. This morning, the white spots are completely gone.

 

Question 1 - is it normal for clowns to fight off the parasite in such a short amount of time? I fed them pellets twice a day to try to boost their immune system. I did a 25% water change on Sunday, the day after I noticed the ich. Did I just get lucky?

 

Question 2 - I understand the parasite is still present in the tank. Should I quarantine the clowns (my only fish) for a few months to let the parasite die out before adding more fish? Or any other suggestions?

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Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) goes through stages in its life cycle. It is normal for the spots to disappear only to have it reappear (worse than before). I would use this period to setup a hospital tank for your fish, and leave your display fallow for 6 to 8 weeks.

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The parasite only presents itself in the visible spot form for a very short period of time. So even though the white spots are gone, it doesn't mean the clowns fought off the ich unfortunately - it just means the parasite has moved on in the lifecycle past the visible spot phase.

 

If you want to make sure the ich is gone, letting the tank run fallow is the only way I've read to truly do this so setting up a QT would be the way to go.


Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) goes through stages in its life cycle. It is normal for the spots to disappear only to have it reappear (worse than before). I would use this period to setup a hospital tank for your fish, and leave your display fallow for 6 to 8 weeks.

What Seabass said :)

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Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) goes through stages in its life cycle. It is normal for the spots to disappear only to have it reappear (worse than before). I would use this period to setup a hospital tank for your fish, and leave your display fallow for 6 to 8 weeks.

Sounds like my best option. Thanks!

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So here's another question - if I use tank water to get the cycle started in the hospital tank, wouldn't ich be present in the hospital tank? Or should I just use new water? I've never set up a hospital tank before, so I'm not sure what the best method would be. Thanks for all the help.

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So here's another question - if I use tank water to get the cycle started in the hospital tank, wouldn't ich be present in the hospital tank? Or should I just use new water? I've never set up a hospital tank before, so I'm not sure what the best method would be. Thanks for all the help.

 

I would use new water. Existing water wouldn't help get the cycle started. Bacteria is in the rocks, sand, floss, etc. not the water column. So if you want to add some bacteria to help, you can use some floss from your existing tank, put it in there. However, you'll need to monitor for things like ammonia and be prepared for water changes and such.

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So here's another question - if I use tank water to get the cycle started in the hospital tank, wouldn't ich be present in the hospital tank? Or should I just use new water? I've never set up a hospital tank before, so I'm not sure what the best method would be. Thanks for all the help.

 

It will be present BUT you will use some sort of treatment to kill it off.

 

Also leave the display fallow for minimum 90days. That is the point where there is 0% chance of return of the parasite.

 

I also leave a big clump of floss in my sump incase I need to set up a QT tank.

 

I would use new water. Existing water wouldn't help get the cycle started. Bacteria is in the rocks, sand, floss, etc. not the water column. So if you want to add some bacteria to help, you can use some floss from your existing tank, put it in there. However, you'll need to monitor for things like ammonia and be prepared for water changes and such.

 

Pssst if it wasn't in the water column you wouldn't be able to test for it. ;) Using old water has very little help with a cycle though.

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It will be present BUT you will use some sort of treatment to kill it off.

 

Also leave the display fallow for minimum 90days. That is the point where there is 0% chance of return of the parasite.

 

I also leave a big clump of floss in my sump incase I need to set up a QT tank.

 

Pssst if it wasn't in the water column you wouldn't be able to test for it. ;) Using old water has very little help with a cycle though.

 

:huh: how do you test for bacteria in the water?

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Cencalfishguy56

 

I would use new water. Existing water wouldn't help get the cycle started. Bacteria is in the rocks, sand, floss, etc. not the water column. So if you want to add some bacteria to help, you can use some floss from your existing tank, put it in there. However, you'll need to monitor for things like ammonia and be prepared for water changes and such.

 

 

It will be present BUT you will use some sort of treatment to kill it off.

 

Also leave the display fallow for minimum 90days. That is the point where there is 0% chance of return of the parasite.

 

I also leave a big clump of floss in my sump incase I need to set up a QT tank.

 

Pssst if it wasn't in the water column you wouldn't be able to test for it. ;) Using old water has very little help with a cycle though.

but if its in your DT and you have your floss in the same water that has the ich then wheres the logic in putting that floss in your QT? lol I just used live rock i had from my old tank, used a whole bottle of bacteria and cycled the damn thing in 3 days! I used topfin bacteria at petsmart and to my surprise it worked lol

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but if its in your DT and you have your floss in the same water that has the ich then wheres the logic in putting that floss in your QT? lol I just used live rock i had from my old tank, used a whole bottle of bacteria and cycled the damn thing in 3 days! I used topfin bacteria at petsmart and to my surprise it worked lol

 

I don't think having ich in the water is a concern if you're going to be treating - but in my opinion, using existing water doesn't help the cycle - live rock, yeah, that would help more. But the rock shouldn't go back into the display especially if treating with copper.

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Cencalfishguy56

 

I don't think having ich in the water is a concern if you're going to be treating - but in my opinion, using existing water doesn't help the cycle - live rock, yeah, that would help more. But the rock shouldn't go back into the display especially if treating with copper.

my rocks from a pre existing tank lol I wasn't gonna use it till I setup my QT and thats where it will stay

also true didnt think of that till after

Last weekend I noticed white spots on my clowns and knew it was ich. I was still in the process of coming up with a treatment plan a few days ago when I noticed the clowns looked much better. This morning, the white spots are completely gone.

 

Question 1 - is it normal for clowns to fight off the parasite in such a short amount of time? I fed them pellets twice a day to try to boost their immune system. I did a 25% water change on Sunday, the day after I noticed the ich. Did I just get lucky?

 

Question 2 - I understand the parasite is still present in the tank. Should I quarantine the clowns (my only fish) for a few months to let the parasite die out before adding more fish? Or any other suggestions?

http://kmaintl.com/p...t-category/misc buy this, used to treat parasites and protozoans, but seems to be a safer solution than copper treating, I got the biggest bottle for $15 shipped

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Thanks for the replies. I don't have any spare live rock to put into the QT tank, but I will get the cycle started with some used floss and new water. I could even use something like Bio-Spira, right? You don't run any chemical filtration in a QT tank, do you? Just floss?

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my rocks from a pre existing tank lol I wasn't gonna use it till I setup my QT and thats where it will stay

also true didnt think of that till after

http://kmaintl.com/p...t-category/misc buy this, used to treat parasites and protozoans, but seems to be a safer solution than copper treating, I got the biggest bottle for $15 shipped

 

I was just looking at that stuff! Hey, do you keep a QT tank running at all times? I've thought about doing this but haven't.

Thanks for the replies. I don't have any spare live rock to put into the QT tank, but I will get the cycle started with some used floss and new water. I could even use something like Bio-Spira, right? You don't run any chemical filtration in a QT tank, do you? Just floss?

Well, if you're going to be treating, correct - no chemical filtration. If you're doing a QT for observation, I guess some chemical filtration isn't a bad thing but just take out the carbon etc. if you are going to treat. yeah, something like Bio-spira should help or MB7 or something.

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:huh: how do you test for bacteria in the water?

 

Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia. All products of bacteria which are in the water column.

 

 

 

but if its in your DT and you have your floss in the same water that has the ich then wheres the logic in putting that floss in your QT? lol I just used live rock i had from my old tank, used a whole bottle of bacteria and cycled the damn thing in 3 days! I used topfin bacteria at petsmart and to my surprise it worked lol

 

You treat with copper anyways so it kills the ich. Noob.

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Cencalfishguy56

 

I was just looking at that stuff! Hey, do you keep a QT tank running at all times? I've thought about doing this but haven't.

Well, if you're going to be treating, correct - no chemical filtration. If you're doing a QT for observation, I guess some chemical filtration isn't a bad thing but just take out the carbon etc. if you are going to treat. yeah, something like Bio-spira should help or MB7 or something.

I used to not even have a QT but with this tank I don't want to take any chances, I'm going to be running mine 24/7 and dosing ammonia now and then to keep the flora up, then use the medication the day before I add fish and continue till I know they are clear

 

Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia. All products of bacteria which are in the water column.

 

 

 

You treat with copper anyways so it kills the ich. Noob.

coppers for noobs son, all about that chloroquine, get with the program!

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Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia. All products of bacteria which are in the water column.

 

 

 

 

You treat with copper anyways so it kills the ich. Noob.

Well yeah byproducts of the bacteria that are released into the watercolumn - but as far as I know bacteria colonized in the rock and substrate. No?

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Cencalfishguy56

Well yeah byproducts of the bacteria that are released into the watercolumn - but as far as I know bacteria colonized in the rock and substrate. No?

thats where they are saturated, but theoretically bacteria is also in the water column, just as if you touch any inanimate object you will instantly have millions of bacteria on you as well as your own normal body flora, same principles apply to aquariums

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coppers for noobs son, all about that chloroquine, get with the program!

All these crazy meds that are just pointless :rolleyes: Do Hypo!

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Cencalfishguy56

All these crazy meds that are just pointless :rolleyes: Do Hypo!

lol they're proven! hypo is too tedious and time consuming for me

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thats where they are saturated, but theoretically bacteria is also in the water column, just as if you touch any inanimate object you will instantly have millions of bacteria on you as well as your own normal body flora, same principles apply to aquariums

 

good points :)

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lol they're proven! hypo is too tedious and time consuming for me

So's hypo, and much easier on your fish. Takes like 5 mins a day to check your salinity and ammonia levels. No copper to check, no worries about mixing tools. Nada but smooth sailing. B)

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Cencalfishguy56

I can't understand those dosing instructions lol.

lol they're conversion factors! c'mon man you're in law school simple math haha

So's hypo, and much easier on your fish. Takes like 5 mins a day to check your salinity and ammonia levels. No copper to check, no worries about mixing tools. Nada but smooth sailing. B)

ehhhh I believe in darwins theory! I only want the baddest of the baddest in my tank ;)

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OP I'll play devil's advocate and say leave them in the tank. Get them on a good diet like LRS and keep everything low stress. Watch your water quality, and let their immune system do it's job.

 

I only want the baddest of the baddest in my tank ;)

Then why are you even QT'ing? :P

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lol they're conversion factors! c'mon man you're in law school simple math haha

I went to law school because I couldn't do math! :P

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