outerorbiter Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Just looking for some thoughts or opinions on the use of self piercing saddle valves. I have all copper plumbing so looking to use one of the saddle valves or splitting supply at washing machine. Link to comment
jbb Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I split the supply in the laundry room , and then also used the drain for the washing machine to dump my waste water . Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Self piercing needle valves often lead to trouble. Over time they start plugging up and reducing the flow to the RO unit. I much prefer using a brass garden hose wye on the cold water supply to the washing machine or a simple feed water adapter on a faucet cold water supply. You get a larger inside diameter so better flow and less tendancy to plug or foul. Link to comment
outerorbiter Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Is there any limitations on length of the waste line. I would like to run it outside to store some if not all of the waste water. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 When you lengthen the waste line or make it travel uphill such as from a basement to a first or second level floor you change the waste ratio which is what keeps the RO membrane flushed and operational. If its not much longer, say 20-25 total feet and on the same level or lower it shouldn't make any difference. There really is no problem lengthening or raising the line as long as you be sure to check and adjust the waste ratio once you have the waste line configured like you want. You can use an untrimmed capillary tube flow restrictor ($5-$6 at places like Spectrapure and Buckeye Hydro) and trim it to the correct length with a razor blade. Also make sure where ever you end the waste line you provide an air gap so there is no potential to such waste back into the unit, by that I mean don't stick it down in a bucket or barrel, lay it in a tree well or garden or shove it down a drain pipe. Keep it up so it drips into the receiver, whatever it may be. Link to comment
outerorbiter Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Ok cool looking to maybe run 12 feet of waste at the most at the same level or maybe even a little lower. Looks like it will be good to go without modification. The line will be above the water level for sure at all times. Now to just pick a kit Link to comment
braaap Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Ok cool looking to maybe run 12 feet of waste at the most at the same level or maybe even a little lower. Looks like it will be good to go without modification. The line will be above the water level for sure at all times. Now to just pick a kit I run about 20 feet. I run it from my furnace room through my crawlspace and to the outside of my house. No issues with waste ratios or anything. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Have you actually measured your waste ratio to see or are you just saying that? Very few people actually monitoe the waste ratio and rejection rate and it often leads to shortened component life and a higher overall cost of ownership. Check the wase ratio in the normal configuration then cheack it again the way you have it plumbed to see if it actually did make a difference or not, i'll bet it did have some effect. Link to comment
braaap Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Have you actually measured your waste ratio to see or are you just saying that? Very few people actually monitoe the waste ratio and rejection rate and it often leads to shortened component life and a higher overall cost of ownership. Check the wase ratio in the normal configuration then cheack it again the way you have it plumbed to see if it actually did make a difference or not, i'll bet it did have some effect. I actually did test it. If there was a difference it wasn't noticeable to me. My distance is literally a straight and level shot from my unit to the outside of the house. So no incline. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Cool. I like to see people actually test and monitor the efficiency of their RO and RO/DI systems. It pays off in longer membrane and DI life and better water quality. Most vendors just say plug it in and let it go when really RO/DI is not plug and play if you want to get the most out of it. A few minutes spent here and there makes a big difference. Link to comment
braaap Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Cool. I like to see people actually test and monitor the efficiency of their RO and RO/DI systems. It pays off in longer membrane and DI life and better water quality. Most vendors just say plug it in and let it go when really RO/DI is not plug and play if you want to get the most out of it. A few minutes spent here and there makes a big difference. I started caring after reading all of your posts haha. It really wasn't hard. I did it over 1 minute with a 5 gallon bucket on each line and then compared. My ratio is supposed to be 4:1 and when measuring it looked nearly perfect to me. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Pick up a cheap plastic kitchen measuring cup at a dollar store. They have m/L and ounces graduations so you can get real accurate. It also makes a great salt scoop when you are wanting to measure out enough for a 5G water change or whatever. Link to comment
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