Right off the bat... this thing is wicked bright. I was not paying attention to where I was looking when I removed the jumper to my LDD powering the NW string, and it blasted my eyes - and I still see spots. So don't look directly into them
The product page for the Lumia can be found here. The cost is right around $100 for the chip. The Lumia has five channels, each with ten LED diodes epoxied onto the base and ran in series, for a total forward voltage of 34-38v per channel, so yes, this will require five separate drivers to power, unless you have high-voltage drivers.
The channels are as such:
- 10x 4500K neutral white
- 10x 450nm royal blue
- 10x 430nm hyper violet
- 5x 495nm turquoise (cyan) and 5x 660nm deep red
- 5x 405nm true violet and 5x 470nm cool blue
Here is the spectral output (provided by LEDGroupBuy):
The chip is pretty straightforward. Comes with wire leads preattached for each channel, so plug them in and you're ready to go.
There are no optics for the chip as of yet, so you will not find readings or pictures including any. Once Milad sends me one, I will update this thread with new pictures and PAR readings.
The board that the LEDs are attached to is tin-plated copper, which has very good thermal transfer. Clive Bentley (our own evilc66) has a bit more information on the LEDs themselves, and cautions that the maximum LED junction temperature is 70°C for the deep red chips, which is much lower than that of the others, but because of its inclusion, the entire chip is limited to that temperature. To add to it, the LEDs on this chip are not soldered into place, but epoxied, which does limit thermal transfer. I believe that the copper PCB should make up for that, though, and the use of a properly sized and actively cooled heatsink will keep it well under that temperature. blasterman reports that properly cooled LEDs rarely exceed 40°C if I'm not mistaken.
I'm running the chip on a 6" MakersLED heatsink with the provided fan, and after running for nearly an hour at full bore (700mA, 126 watts), the heatsink was not warm to the touch, and the LEDs had not lost intensity (as when LEDs get hot, they emit less light). With that being said - I always recommend overkill. I would use a 12" Makers and not one, but two fans - in case one dies, there will be a backup to keep the heatsink cool, which could definitely save your LEDs - well worth the bit of extra money, as the fans will fail long before the LEDs do (I've found an average lifespan of three years on 'computer' fans). Redundancy is your friend.
First off, some pics of the unit itself, and my professional soldering station.
Here you can see where I melted the casing to reattach the wire.
Installation was pretty straightforward since I'm using a Makers heatsink. Four screws, run wire to each lead, plug in. Mine was a bit more complex because of the LDD and the boards, but if I wasn't just throwing this together, it would look a lot nicer. All LDD used are 700mA (the maximum you can run the Lumia, and will pull 126 watts of power) on the 250w 48v power supply from LEDGroupBuy.
Got it lit up and took some pics. All pictures were taken with a Canon Rebel T1i, 1/125 shutter, f2.8 aperture, ISO 800, and white balance set to 'white fluorescent light (4000K)' as this seems to give consistent results. Photos were imported into Lightroom (taken as RAW) and were not messed with, except for the first set on the table where I needed to lower the exposure so it didn't look like one color filling the frame
Neutral white channel
Royal blue channel
Hyper violet channel
Turquoise (cyan) and deep red channel
True violet and cool blue channel
Told ya it was bright.
Next up, I hung it over a tank I have set up (empty) just like I did my 'evil cluster' a couple of weeks ago. The heatsink is exactly 24" above the bottom of the tank, which is a rimless 24" x 24" x 12" 30g. It has a corner overflow, therefore no measurements were taken for that corner. PAR measurements were taken using an Apogee SQ-110 sun-calibrated PAR sensor attached to a multimeter. The measurements of both the multimeter and the PAR sensor are +/- 5%, so I will consider it a wash. All PAR readings for the blue/violet channels were adjusted to match Apogee's provided sensor quantum response graph (located here for reference).
All measurements were taken with the sensor on the bottom of the tank, except for one reading taken in the dead center at 18" under the lights, and is noted by a line drawn from the center extending up.
Neutral white channel ONLY
Royal blue channel ONLY
Hyper violet channel ONLY
Turquoise (cyan) and deep red channel ONLY
True violet and cool blue channel ONLY
All channels (PAR reading is just all previous combined, measured separately for accuracy)
The Lumia is pretty cool. It's pretty potent for such a small chip, and it includes a very large amount of violet light (10x 430nm, 5x 405nm), which I'm pretty happy about. The more violet the better!
There was one odd thing I couldn't quite put my finger on. The royal blue channel was very white. I mean, very white, as in not blue looking like any other royal blue LEDs I have on hand do. I don't know what is going on in my unit, but it seems that the RB channel might be very high-kelvin white, almost like it has a little bit of phosphor applied to it (but it doesn't). I checked it again, and the phosphor on the NW doesn't bleed over onto the RB diodes. Again, this may be only my unit, I'd be interested to hear anyone else's experience with this channel.
In addition, the neutral white channel is pretty blue for a 4500K white. I've got some 6500K 'generic' chips that I have on hand from an old build, and they look pretty similar, with the Lumia's white channel looking a bit warmer.
The light blends very well, and there is almost no color banding (which leads to 'disco' with surface agitation). The light looks great, and is powerful and, best of all, even with its coverage, shown in my PAR readings above. Good, easy full-spectrum LED array with minimal work and time. Even with my wiring to the LDD on the boards, it took me less than an hour to go from separate parts to assembled and over the tank.
Now, a few of you want to know how the Lumia compares to my 'evil cluster' that I made. The Lumia at 700mA (126 watts total) is about 87% as powerful as my evil cluster (70 watts total) when both are run without optics. As I mentioned in other threads when asked about how they compare, in raw efficiency and power, the evil cluster will win every time. The Lumia is easier to use and put together if you're unfamiliar, but does have drawbacks in efficiency (but being a multichip package, that comes standard).
I'm pretty much required to mention that the Lumia 5.1, two LDD-700H, 48v 250w power supply, and 6" MakersLED heatsink were given to me to review by LEDGroupBuy.com, but this did not effect my take of the products.