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#201
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com

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About to run out due to incoming orders?


Existing pre-orders will be fullfilled with first production run?

Will 4 3ups run at 500ma by the DIM-4 be plenty on a BC14?


Yes we are running out of the first production run because of the pre orders
Exisiting pre orders will be fullfilled in order that we received them
4x 3UPS is perfect on a BC 14.

#202
Nanosurf

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I'm thinking about this layout for future build.
There will be two of these over a 28 gallon bow front
Total leds 30
8 cool white
10 royal blue
4 blue
4 green
4 red
Now my question is what would be the best way to power this. I would like all colors to dim individualy.
Also would one long heatsink be better then two seperate ones.
Also wanted to know if it would get to hot inside a old obit light fixture with added fans.

Edited by Nanosurf, 20 April 2012 - 08:00 AM.

Aw, ####! Who wants some chicken dinner, now, #####! 'Cause somebody messed with the WRONG wang today!

#203
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I know a ton of you have gotten your OCW either today or yesterday so where are the pictures of the builds?!!

#204
pdavidc

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After reading all the pages in this thread, and wanting to light a 20L, I am thinking the following:

6 3up's
3 OCW
and perhaps 3 TV's

all on an 18 inch Maker's Heat sink.

So, should I group them or spread them out along the sink?

Thanks for any help

Dave

#205
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com

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After reading all the pages in this thread, and wanting to light a 20L, I am thinking the following:

6 3up's
3 OCW
and perhaps 3 TV's

all on an 18 inch Maker's Heat sink.

So, should I group them or spread them out along the sink?

Thanks for any help

Dave


Always group, helps with color mixing.

#206
GothBoy

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I know a ton of you have gotten your OCW either today or yesterday so where are the pictures of the builds?!!


I'm in the UK, gimme time :P

#207
boxofh2o

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Hey everyone!

I've been lurking around the forums for quite sometime, but finally just getting to setup a new tank in a few weeks and its time to start asking some questions.

I'll be doing a build soon to retrofit a Biocube 29g hood, and am looking for some recommendations. Ive read through some of the threads, but am still learning. I also dont have the experience, and being my first reef don't have anything to compare to. I know i want to upgrade the stock lighting on the cube to be able to handle almost any coral, as im sure i will want to try everything eventually. Starting slow of course.

Heatsync is 4.7" x 15.8", and will be using MeanWell LPF-60D-48 drivers. (or recommendations - i want the flexabilty to control via potentiometer for now, or possible controller in the future)

Looking for recommendations on 2 options:

First: mix of 3ups , OCW, and TV (i think the 3 ups are only avail with NW?)
Second: mix of RB, CW, OCW and TV


Looking for recommendation on #of each for a good mix. What would the differences in color temp be?

Also can i get away with only 2 drivers? If so what combo would you put on each? 3 is probably ideal to have blues on one, white and OCW on one, and tv on last?

#208
pdavidc

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Thanks Milad.

Does this drawing make sense and look feasible?

Posted Image

#209
jedimasterben

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I'll be doing a build soon to retrofit a Biocube 29g hood, and am looking for some recommendations. Ive read through some of the threads, but am still learning. I also dont have the experience, and being my first reef don't have anything to compare to. I know i want to upgrade the stock lighting on the cube to be able to handle almost any coral, as im sure i will want to try everything eventually. Starting slow of course.

Heatsync is 4.7" x 15.8", and will be using MeanWell LPF-60D-48 drivers. (or recommendations - i want the flexabilty to control via potentiometer for now, or possible controller in the future)

Looking for recommendations on 2 options:

First: mix of 3ups , OCW, and TV (i think the 3 ups are only avail with NW?)
Second: mix of RB, CW, OCW and TV

Definitely don't use cool white. Neutrals give you better coloration.

What kind of corals do you want to keep? That would determine how many of your base colors you will need.

Run each on a separate driver, white, royals, OCW, and violet. I'm anal am ordering seven drivers, one for each color so I can have complete control over my color.

With the OCW, to reduce complexity, all run on the same driver at the same amperage will produce a white-ish light. These DO NOT replace white LEDs, though! They don't provide a wide spectrum of colors like neutral white does, they are fairly specifically 475nm, 495nm, and 660nm.

Thanks Milad.

Does this drawing make sense and look feasible?

Posted Image

What kind of corals do you plan on keeping? What amperage do you plan on running the whites and royals?

#210
jedimasterben

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I'm thinking about this layout for future build.
There will be two of these over a 28 gallon bow front
Total leds 30
8 cool white
10 royal blue
4 blue
4 green
4 red
Now my question is what would be the best way to power this. I would like all colors to dim individualy.
Also would one long heatsink be better then two seperate ones.
Also wanted to know if it would get to hot inside a old obit light fixture with added fans.

You're thinking a little too closely to the Radion, but you can get much better than that. :)

If you stick with CREE as your base:
4x XM-L neutral white (cool will look blah) @ 3A
16x XT-E royal blue @ 1A
or
10x 3-up stars from LEDGroupBuy (one neutral white, two XT-E royal blue) @ 1A

4x OCW (deep red, cool blue, and turquoise on one star) @ 700ma (dimmed lower, these can't handle heat)
8x violet @ 700ma (dimmed lower, these like to burn out at 650ma+)

Cluster each XM-L with four XT-E, along with one OCW and two violet.


If you want an alternative, I would suggest Luxeon Rebel ES:
10x Rebel ES neutral white @ 1A
15x Rebel ES royal blue @ 1A
5x Rebel ES cool blue @ 1A
4x Rebel ES deep red @ 700ma
4x Rebel ES cyan @ 1000ma
8x violet @ 700ma (still dimmed, Philips doesn't make violets)

Cluster two Rebel ES white with three royals and a cool blue, and you can cluster the red, cyan, and violet together across the rest of the heatsink.



As far as drivers go, Milad @ LEDGroupBuy sells only Inventronics. They are quality drivers, but they are very expensive. For my build, it would cost over $350 in drivers alone, and I paid that for my entire fixture, using all Rebel ES LEDs. Drivers are from Steve's LEDs, they are custom built for running these type of LEDs and all have PWM control for use with a controller. The drivers use DC input, so you need a power supply to run them, but Steve sells those as well, and they are Meanwell units, and they are high quality as well.

#211
pdavidc

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Well, I am hoping to leave myself the option of a little bit of everything in coral selection but I am partial to zoas and softies and maybe lps.

Assuming that I understand the whites and blues, and that is a big assumption, I planned to run them at 700mA with the 40 watt driver you sell. I am going to guess that is probably wrong! I was then planning on running the ocw and tv's on the same type of driver dialed down to 500mA.

I am sure that I am showing my ignorance here so please pardon any really stupid ideas that I have!

Dave

#212
Singlefin

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There aren't any stupid ideas and no one should be afraid to ask any valid questions. We are all here to learn.

Posted Image


Posted Image


#213
jedimasterben

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Well, I am hoping to leave myself the option of a little bit of everything in coral selection but I am partial to zoas and softies and maybe lps.

Assuming that I understand the whites and blues, and that is a big assumption, I planned to run them at 700mA with the 40 watt driver you sell. I am going to guess that is probably wrong! I was then planning on running the ocw and tv's on the same type of driver dialed down to 500mA.

I am sure that I am showing my ignorance here so please pardon any really stupid ideas that I have!

Dave

Well, unlike what Singlefin said, there are definitely stupid ideas lol, but yours isn't one. :)

If you're not keeping SPS, your setup should be ok, though I would add another three violets.

How many drivers were you planning on using? I wouldn't run any of those LEDs on the same color, but that's a ginormous amount of money just in drivers (a little more than the LEDs are).

#214
PinkDamsel

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Milad, you say the OCW stars are meant to supplement the standard white + blue combo. Is there a low-watt version that doesn't need a heat sink, fan, drivers, soldering, etc.? In other words, something akin to Ecoxotic stunner strips that are 1/4 w leds and you just stick them on & plug into power supply.

I'm on my second PAR30 light, went from 4rb/1cw to 2rb/1b/1nw/1cw, hoping some pink and red corals would color up, but in 3 months they haven't. So now I'm looking to supplement, using one or the other PAR bulb as the base.

Rather than get a 12" magenta stunner strip that would look wierd hanging next to the PAR light, 2-4 stars mounted on an open square frame around the PAR would look better. Would also like the True Violet in the same format.

Some reefers have reported corals coloring up w. addition of the stunners, so it seems like a weak output in the supplemental colors can be effective.

This may be a stupid question, I'm really ignorant about this DIY lighting stuff, lol.

Edited by PinkDamsel, 23 April 2012 - 05:23 PM.

My girdle is killing me!
What do you MEAN blue damsels don't come in pink?!?!?!?

#215
Singlefin

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I'll go with "bad" ideas. Not stupid.

Posted Image


Posted Image


#216
pdavidc

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Well, unlike what Singlefin said, there are definitely stupid ideas lol, but yours isn't one.

If you're not keeping SPS, your setup should be ok, though I would add another three violets.

How many drivers were you planning on using? I wouldn't run any of those LEDs on the same color, but that's a ginormous amount of money just in drivers (a little more than the LEDs are).


Thanks for the input. I had planned on three drivers...1 for whites, one for rb and one for ocw and tv. I am certainly open to any ideas and or suggestions. I really like to look of a 20l but it seems so hard to light it correctly across the length with LED.

What more would I need for SPS?

Again, thanks

Dave

#217
jedimasterben

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Milad, you say the OCW stars are meant to supplement the standard white + blue combo. Is there a low-watt version that doesn't need a heat sink, fan, drivers, soldering, etc.? In other words, something akin to Ecoxotic stunner strips that are 1/4 w leds and you just stick them on & plug into power supply.

I'm on my second PAR30 light, went from 4rb/1cw to 2rb/1b/1nw/1cw, hoping some pink and red corals would color up, but in 3 months they haven't. So now I'm looking to supplement, using one or the other PAR bulb as the base.

Rather than get a 12" magenta stunner strip that would look wierd hanging next to the PAR light, 2-4 stars mounted on an open square frame around the PAR would look better. Would also like the True Violet in the same format.

Some reefers have reported corals coloring up w. addition of the stunners, so it seems like a weak output in the supplemental colors can be effective.

This may be a stupid question, I'm really ignorant about this DIY lighting stuff, lol.

Magenta is just a mixture of royal blue and maybe green, I think? I can't remember, Milad mentioned that earlier in this thread. They are incredibly weak LEDs, though, you'd be much better off getting a good base color going.


If you want good color, you need a good base. Neutral white and royal blue, this is all that most people need. Add violet, cool blue, deep red, and cyan to add in more parts of the spectrum that the neutral white just doesn't hit very much, but you will absolutely want a neutral white base. You will see colors you won't have seen otherwise.

I'm assuming this is over your JBJ 3g? There's really not enough room over that to make a good LED fixture DIY with enough LEDs to actually use a driver.

The more I think about it, I think you should look at a Full spectrum PAR38 from LEDtric. Mike will take care of you. Even though it uses cool white as its base, it should still look worlds better than your current PAR30.

#218
jedimasterben

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Thanks for the input. I had planned on three drivers...1 for whites, one for rb and one for ocw and tv. I am certainly open to any ideas and or suggestions. I really like to look of a 20l but it seems so hard to light it correctly across the length with LED.

What more would I need for SPS?

Again, thanks

Dave

I wouldn't recommend running violet on a driver with anything else, turn them up a bit too much and you may bleach what you put under it (ask me how I know :( ). If you don't mind using a separate power supply, I'd look at Buckpucks or drivers from Steve's LEDs, they will be much less inexpensive (looking around $75 instead of $130+).


If you wanted SPS, I would consider either switching to CREE XM-L, running at 2-3A, paired with 3-4 XT-E royals, or a pair of neutral white Luxeon Rebel ES, three royal blue Rebel ES, and a cool blue Rebel ES, all run at 1A, this will save on needing a high-amperage driver to run the XM-Ls.

I'd do four clusters of XM-L at 2A, three clusters at 3A, or four clusters of the Rebels, leaving your exotics the same, unless you'd like to go Rebel ES on those, as well, they will be able to run at a much higher amperage and put out much more light than the others, even the CREEs.

#219
GTi

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I know a ton of you have gotten your OCW either today or yesterday so where are the pictures of the builds?!!

Mine arrived today. I currently have 4 of the 2RB:1NW stars on an EcoPico arm mounting over my Pico tank. I'll be switching the OCW for one of these existing stars. I'll try to do some before and after shots. Might be a couple of days...

#220
pdavidc

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...or four clusters of the Rebels, leaving your exotics the same, unless you'd like to go Rebel ES on those, as well, they will be able to run at a much higher amperage and put out much more light than the others, even the CREEs.


So you mean something like this:
Posted Image
I am kind of guessing with the exotics (Deep Red, Cyan/Turquoise) and there is no cool blue at Steves.

#221
jedimasterben

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So you mean something like this:
Posted Image
I am kind of guessing with the exotics (Deep Red, Cyan/Turquoise) and there is no cool blue at Steves.

That's exactly what I had in mind. And the cool blues will be in next week. I had him hold my order til he had everything, but I'm starting to get antsy!

#222
Milad LEDGroupBuy.com

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Milad, you say the OCW stars are meant to supplement the standard white + blue combo. Is there a low-watt version that doesn't need a heat sink, fan, drivers, soldering, etc.? In other words, something akin to Ecoxotic stunner strips that are 1/4 w leds and you just stick them on & plug into power supply.

I'm on my second PAR30 light, went from 4rb/1cw to 2rb/1b/1nw/1cw, hoping some pink and red corals would color up, but in 3 months they haven't. So now I'm looking to supplement, using one or the other PAR bulb as the base.

Rather than get a 12" magenta stunner strip that would look wierd hanging next to the PAR light, 2-4 stars mounted on an open square frame around the PAR would look better. Would also like the True Violet in the same format.

Some reefers have reported corals coloring up w. addition of the stunners, so it seems like a weak output in the supplemental colors can be effective.

This may be a stupid question, I'm really ignorant about this DIY lighting stuff, lol.


Magenta is just Royal Blue and 660nm Deep red.
You can get the OCW and small heatsink from a CPU to make a compact light but you will have a hard time powering just one OCW. You can run the OCW at 1w each LED, you just give it less power.

#223
acabgd

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For TrueViolets, driven at 500mA, how long do you keep them on during the day? I have a 7g with SPS.

#224
Deckoz2302

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I keep my violet on the longest...along with royal and cool blue(white/red/turq set 90 min before). My day cycle ranges from 8.5-13.5 hours with 90 minute slopes...so 5.5-10.5 hours at full power(600mA)


These are under 5 royal blue, 5 cool blue and 6 violet. Other strings offline.....meh to the cool blue neysayer ;P
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by Deckoz2302, 24 April 2012 - 02:10 AM.


OceanariumProject_zpsdcf024fc.jpg

#225
jedimasterben

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These are under 5 royal blue, 5 cool blue and 6 violet. Other strings offline.....meh to the cool blue neysayer ;P
[pretty pichers snip]

I'm no longer a naysayer! :P

It's just if you get too many of them (I'm sure with a combination of other colors, strengths, power, etc) your tank can look like Windex.