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Full Spectrum LED tank pictures


Milad LEDGroupBuy.com

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yes

 

 

 

 

sure

 

Here is Ocean Coral White on the new MakersLED prototype

 

3UPMakers.JPG

 

 

 

Ooooh.... I've got that funny feeling in my coffee!!! YAY! Time to proceed with an LED build... Maybe a shot of it all lit up? Maybe against a white wall?

 

Also I don't suppose you're going to divulge what wavelength emitters are included? Could be useful for ratio's sake...

 

The makerLED heatsink gave me a warm-fuzzy too...

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Milad LEDGroupBuy.com
Ooooh.... I've got that funny feeling in my coffee!!! YAY! Time to proceed with an LED build... Maybe a shot of it all lit up? Maybe against a white wall?

 

Also I don't suppose you're going to divulge what wavelength emitters are included? Could be useful for ratio's sake...

 

The makerLED heatsink gave me a warm-fuzzy too...

 

Its really just a white LED to your eyes. This is a picture of the LED lit over a piece of white paper at 14inches. you can see the different colors a bit but in person its harder to see.

 

OCW-14in.JPG

 

The MakersLED heatsink is in a league of its own. It makes everyone warm inside....

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Hi Milad,

 

We have been talking via email about a setup for a 20" x 7" x 7" tank.

 

We discussed running 4 3-ups on the Dim4. After doing some research it appears I should be incorporating other spectrum.

 

What would you recommend for broader spectrum on this little tank. I know for sure some TV, but what about this new exotic chip?

 

The Mod4 drives only 500mA, Will this give me enough juice to light this tank for sps

 

I'm thinking this in a linear configuration:

 

RB | CW | TV | CW | RB | OCEAN CORAL | RB | CW | TV | CW | RB

 

That makes it 13, i think the Dim4 can only run 12 correct? Please advice, I wanna do this right the first time. :)

 

Thanks!

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Milad LEDGroupBuy.com
Hi Milad,

 

We have been talking via email about a setup for a 20" x 7" x 7" tank.

 

We discussed running 4 3-ups on the Dim4. After doing some research it appears I should be incorporating other spectrum.

 

What would you recommend for broader spectrum on this little tank. I know for sure some TV, but what about this new exotic chip?

 

The Mod4 drives only 500mA, Will this give me enough juice to light this tank for sps

 

I'm thinking this in a linear configuration:

 

RB | CW | TV | CW | RB | OCEAN CORAL | RB | CW | TV | CW | RB

 

That makes it 13, i think the Dim4 can only run 12 correct? Please advice, I wanna do this right the first time. :)

 

Thanks!

 

That would be too much for the DIM4.

I would probably just go wtihout the True Violet to start to see if you like it. If you want to add the True Violet you will end up needing a driver to control the OCW and TV.

 

What you are seeing in this thread is very forefront in the LED lighting so its not a 100% science yet. Most people like the RB NW combo but this OCW + TV really adds that extra "kick" to all the colors in the tank.

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Damn it, you know I'm going to have to put in an order from the UK soon... :P

 

Mind you, even with shipping it works out cheaper than buying in the UK!

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Right, I'm going to ask some stupid questions that have been swirling through my head for a while :huh:

 

1) I've got a chance to get a 48v 100A power supply. I'm going to try a new setup using Meanwell LDD-1000H 1000mA drivers (currently as common as hen's teeth). Now, I understand that I can use, say 16 3v LEDs running at 1000mA on these given the 48v status. But can I run two drivers, each pulling 16A on a single 48v supply as the total current would be 32A? I'm used to electronics where current matters rather than voltage (if that makes sense).

 

2) My nano tank is 19L x 13W x 18H and currently lit my 4x Aquarays. I want to practice building a LED array for this tank so that when I convert my 6ft tank I know more about what I'm doing :lol: I was thinking that maybe 4x Ocean Coral White and 6x 3-up No-Discos would be the way to go. Would this be too much for a system that is likely to end up mainly softies and some LPS? Oh I *love* the pop from actinics too... a moonlight effect wouldn't go amiss either. I want to be full spectrum as the UK seems to be limited to White and Blue (we love Windex). :P

 

I'm going to be dimming via an Arduino set-up on my big tank but can use it on the nano for now.

 

Many Thanks!

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jedimasterben
Right, I'm going to ask some stupid questions that have been swirling through my head for a while :huh:

 

1) I've got a chance to get a 48v 100A power supply. I'm going to try a new setup using Meanwell LDD-1000H 1000mA drivers (currently as common as hen's teeth). Now, I understand that I can use, say 16 3v LEDs running at 1000mA on these given the 48v status. But can I run two drivers, each pulling 16A on a single 48v supply as the total current would be 32A? I'm used to electronics where current matters rather than voltage (if that makes sense).

 

2) My nano tank is 19L x 13W x 18H and currently lit my 4x Aquarays. I want to practice building a LED array for this tank so that when I convert my 6ft tank I know more about what I'm doing :lol: I was thinking that maybe 4x Ocean Coral White and 6x 3-up No-Discos would be the way to go. Would this be too much for a system that is likely to end up mainly softies and some LPS? Oh I *love* the pop from actinics too... a moonlight effect wouldn't go amiss either. I want to be full spectrum as the UK seems to be limited to White and Blue (we love Windex). :P

 

I'm going to be dimming via an Arduino set-up on my big tank but can use it on the nano for now.

 

Many Thanks!

1) 48v 100A? Are you sure about the amperage? That's 4800 watts it has the ability to provide. You'd need 100x of the Meanwell LDD drivers you're looking at to max it out. Get something a little less powerful, IMO, you'll probably save yourself ridiculous amounts of money.

 

If you are using 48v as the input to the Meanwells, I would run 12 LEDs per, with a maximum of 13, depending on what LEDs you use. The CREE LEDs you are looking at use 3.15v and 3.1v for NW and RB, respectively, and the driver will not be able to pass through all 48v that the power supply is giving. But yes, as long as your drivers are not pulling more than the power supply is rated for, it would work. Amperage pulled is not per LED from the drivers, if that makes any sense, IE 5x LEDs running at 1A from a constant-current driver is still only pulling 1A from the power supply.

 

2) For a tank that size, I would use two to three of the 3up NW/RB stars, and two of the OCW. Two is good for softies and LPS, but three would give you more even coverage. I would add three 420nm true violet LEDs to the array, but just remember that the violets can only be run at 700ma max and the OCW at 650ma max.

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That would be too much for the DIM4.

I would probably just go wtihout the True Violet to start to see if you like it. If you want to add the True Violet you will end up needing a driver to control the OCW and TV.

 

What you are seeing in this thread is very forefront in the LED lighting so its not a 100% science yet. Most people like the RB NW combo but this OCW + TV really adds that extra "kick" to all the colors in the tank.

 

Hi Milad,

 

Can you help me try to nail down what would be the BEST color combo, going linear on this tank ( 20" x 7" x 7" ). I can figure out best way to drive them based on the best full spectrum setup since all the livestock is cuttings from a T5 driven tank with a myriad of spectrum.

 

So would you say this is ideal?

 

RB | CW | TV | CW | RB | OCEAN CORAL | RB | CW | TV | CW | RB

 

Or should there be Blue and Red or even more TV? Also on your site it recommends 4-6 ocean coral for every 24" so for the 20" x 7" x 7" is on OC centered like i have it enough?

 

What kind of color does the OC put out... does it pretty much cover the violet, red, neutral white spectrum to where i dont need it. Please reply with your ideal solution for this tank... remember, it will be all linear.

 

Thanks!

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1) 48v 100A? Are you sure about the amperage? That's 4800 watts it has the ability to provide. You'd need 100x of the Meanwell LDD drivers you're looking at to max it out. Get something a little less powerful, IMO, you'll probably save yourself ridiculous amounts of money.

 

<snip>

 

I'm sure about the amps, it's a modified server power supply that I can get for £50, I would pay about £30 for a 48v 7.5A from China! The price of 'proper' power supplies in the UK are horrifying. e.g. a 'cheap and nasty' 300mA wall wart is £5. I'm thinking of using this big supply on my 6ft tank eventually. I also have a 100A 12v supply here too :D

 

Thanks for all the help in your post, it's exactly what I needed!

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Hi Milad,

 

Can you help me try to nail down what would be the BEST color combo, going linear on this tank ( 20" x 7" x 7" ). I can figure out best way to drive them based on the best full spectrum setup since all the livestock is cuttings from a T5 driven tank with a myriad of spectrum.

 

So would you say this is ideal?

 

RB | CW | TV | CW | RB | OCEAN CORAL | RB | CW | TV | CW | RB

 

Or should there be Blue and Red or even more TV? Also on your site it recommends 4-6 ocean coral for every 24" so for the 20" x 7" x 7" is on OC centered like i have it enough?

 

What kind of color does the OC put out... does it pretty much cover the violet, red, neutral white spectrum to where i dont need it. Please reply with your ideal solution for this tank... remember, it will be all linear.

 

Thanks!

 

Playtax, I think was his last post was suggesting is that this isn't an exact science... He just came out with these things today so I'm guessing there hasn't been a very wide range of tests done yet. The standard ratios of 2RB:1NW or 1RB:1CW (or anything in-between) seems to be the best starting point (which you have).

 

From there you would need to experiment with adding the exotics. From my research these exotic LEDs can be quite beneficial to your corals, however their visible light might not be as apparent to you when your blues and whites are on - it's a balance though because they do affect the visible light some. Just check out the pictures posted in this thread. I think you're safe with the 2 violets though.

 

Given the dimensions of your tank I think you're okay the way you have them except I would get 2 of the OCW LED's and space them out more evenly across the tank and have them on their own dimmable circuit. If you have only 1 then you could get some weird shadows. Just a thought though...

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Milad LEDGroupBuy.com
Hi Milad,

 

Can you help me try to nail down what would be the BEST color combo, going linear on this tank ( 20" x 7" x 7" ). I can figure out best way to drive them based on the best full spectrum setup since all the livestock is cuttings from a T5 driven tank with a myriad of spectrum.

 

So would you say this is ideal?

 

RB | CW | TV | CW | RB | OCEAN CORAL | RB | CW | TV | CW | RB

 

Or should there be Blue and Red or even more TV? Also on your site it recommends 4-6 ocean coral for every 24" so for the 20" x 7" x 7" is on OC centered like i have it enough?

 

What kind of color does the OC put out... does it pretty much cover the violet, red, neutral white spectrum to where i dont need it. Please reply with your ideal solution for this tank... remember, it will be all linear.

 

Thanks!

 

I would just make two pods of:

3UP + OCW + TV

all touching each other

 

120 degree optics on all the LEDs hung about 7" off the tank.

 

This would mean you would need a driver instead of just driving them with the DIM4.

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I'm sure about the amps, it's a modified server power supply that I can get for £50, I would pay about £30 for a 48v 7.5A from China! The price of 'proper' power supplies in the UK are horrifying. e.g. a 'cheap and nasty' 300mA wall wart is £5. I'm thinking of using this big supply on my 6ft tank eventually. I also have a 100A 12v supply here too :D

 

Thanks for all the help in your post, it's exactly what I needed!

In short, no you can not use it easily.

 

LEDs require constant current supplies, not constant voltage supplies. This is because they have fixed voltage drops (due to them being diodes). They will accept as much current as you feed them as they have (essentially) no internal resistance. If you hooked If you hooked that up to the string, it would attempt to drive the string at 100A and all of the LEDs would get extremely bright for all of about 0.00001 seconds before they blew up.

 

You could work up a circuit with current limiting resistors and such, but you would have to use the exact right number of LEDs, etc and it's beyond the scope of a forum post.

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Hi Milad,

 

Can you help me try to nail down what would be the BEST color combo, going linear on this tank ( 20" x 7" x 7" ). I can figure out best way to drive them based on the best full spectrum setup since all the livestock is cuttings from a T5 driven tank with a myriad of spectrum.

 

So would you say this is ideal?

 

RB | CW | TV | CW | RB | OCEAN CORAL | RB | CW | TV | CW | RB

 

Or should there be Blue and Red or even more TV? Also on your site it recommends 4-6 ocean coral for every 24" so for the 20" x 7" x 7" is on OC centered like i have it enough?

 

What kind of color does the OC put out... does it pretty much cover the violet, red, neutral white spectrum to where i dont need it. Please reply with your ideal solution for this tank... remember, it will be all linear.

 

Thanks!

 

1xml t6

2cool blue

3 royal blue

3 true violet

2 turquoise

1 deep red

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I would just make two pods of:

3UP + OCW + TV

all touching each other

 

120 degree optics on all the LEDs hung about 7" off the tank.

 

This would mean you would need a driver instead of just driving them with the DIM4.

 

Milad,

 

So the new OCW would eliminate the use of red, regular blue and TQ? What would be your recommendations for a standard 40 breeder tank?

 

Thanks

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So the new OCW would eliminate the use of red, regular blue and TQ? What would be your recommendations for a standard 40 breeder tank?

 

Thanks

 

Ocw is deep red, turquoise and a royal diode

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In short, no you can not use it easily.

 

LEDs require constant current supplies, not constant voltage supplies. This is because they have fixed voltage drops (due to them being diodes). They will accept as much current as you feed them as they have (essentially) no internal resistance. If you hooked If you hooked that up to the string, it would attempt to drive the string at 100A and all of the LEDs would get extremely bright for all of about 0.00001 seconds before they blew up.

 

You could work up a circuit with current limiting resistors and such, but you would have to use the exact right number of LEDs, etc and it's beyond the scope of a forum post.

 

But surely the Constant Current driver (the Meanwell LDD) will solve that problem as it is rated at 1000mA (or lower depending on version), or am I looking at it wrong? It's whether I can drive lots of drivers from the one constant voltage supply I was worried about.

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To answer your question yes you can drive your drivers from a constant voltage supply

...I drive 7 bucks from a 24v 6.5amp constant voltage supply.

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But surely the Constant Current driver (the Meanwell LDD) will solve that problem as it is rated at 1000mA (or lower depending on version), or am I looking at it wrong? It's whether I can drive lots of drivers from the one constant voltage supply I was worried about.

Ahh my bad, I didn't read clear enough. I skipped down to see if you really meant 100A and missed the fact you were only using it to drive a DC input. Yeah, that would be fine. I'd be surprised if it was cheaper than just buying a meanwell that accepts an AC input though.

 

Furthermore, it won't be 16A each, it'll only be 1A for each 1A driver, or 2A total. You'll wire the LED's in series. The voltage will drop as you move down the line. but not the Amps.

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I would just make two pods of:

3UP + OCW + TV

all touching each other

 

120 degree optics on all the LEDs hung about 7" off the tank.

 

This would mean you would need a driver instead of just driving them with the DIM4.

 

Thanks for the advice. So would it look like this all on a linear setup next to each other?

 

3UP | OCW | TV | 3UP | OCW | TV

 

So all centered on the tank or did you mean each cluster set apart over the 20" span. Like this

 

======== 3UP + OCW + TV=============3UP + OCW + TV ========

 

If this is what you meant, how far apart do you recommend each pod to be over the 20"

 

Thanks!

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Milad LEDGroupBuy.com
Ocw is deep red, turquoise and a royal diode

 

Nope :)

 

Close though

 

Thanks for the advice. So would it look like this all on a linear setup next to each other?

 

3UP | OCW | TV | 3UP | OCW | TV

 

So all centered on the tank or did you mean each cluster set apart over the 20" span. Like this

 

======== 3UP + OCW + TV=============3UP + OCW + TV ========

 

If this is what you meant, how far apart do you recommend each pod to be over the 20"

 

Thanks!

 

I would put the pod at the 5" and 15" mark of the tank, or just a little closer together.

 

 

Milad,

 

So the new OCW would eliminate the use of red, regular blue and TQ? What would be your recommendations for a standard 40 breeder tank?

 

Thanks

 

Its designed to be added on to kits that are already being sold that dont have full spectrum capabilities. So you dont need to mess with Turquoise, Deep Red, Cyan, Cool Blue, etc. This will get you Full Spectrum colors with just one star. So for every 4 or so 3UP (2xRB 1xNW) you would use 1 OCW.

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