Two are left. One died inexplicably several months ago. They're been medicated several times throughout their lives, and I will include a vial of Metrodizanole to their new keepers to ensure regular medication. Because these only eat live lizards, no mice, no fish, no insects, no frogs, only LIVE LIZARDS they do carry quite a risk of contracting diseases from their food. (Reptile -> reptile = no barrier for pathogens that affect only some.)
I will include the half-dozen live brown Bahaman anoles that are left, as well as several contacts for sources straight from Florida. You can use any species of lizard, but anoles are ideal because they're plentiful, and brown anoles are an invasive species in Florida. To those who think it's awful, well, how is a mouse being used for food any different than a lizard? Or a fish? Or a cricket? That's nature.
These are marvelous snakes, but NOT for the inexperienced. They are mildly venomous, rear-fanged colubrids, but the venom is so mild that it shows little to no symptoms in humans. However, like the venomous rabbitfish and lionfish we keep in our reef tanks, the potential for a dangerous allergic reaction is high and must be taken seriously. If you're allergic to bees, you'll be allergic to most animal toxins. Thankfully, again these are rear-fanged and so they simply have grooved back teeth, not the long hypodermic needle-style front teeth of Viperidae, so they'd really have to chew for awhile to get in the venom, and again it's so mild...
Other than that, their care is fairly simple. Keep a humid, warm environment. I used potted Nepenthes pitcher plants as decor and climbing surfaces, pots held up on gutter-guard to keep the roots from rotting underwater (Neps are the only carnivorous plant which will NOT grow in bog conditions, including submerged pots), with lots of sphagnum moss for substratum to keep the humidity up. Regular misting of the tank, along with a heat pad stuck onto the back, a full-spec bulb for the plants, and a regular bulb for heat are enough. 85 during the day and 75-80 at night are fine for these guys. I have an aqualifter pump I was going to use to make a drip system, which you can have as well.
The snakes are about three feet long but thin as your pinky. Very, very thin, delicate snakes. They have never shown any aggression, including inside the cage, instead preferring to act invisible or to flee. I can ship them, as they were shipped to me, but they MUST go overnight. I'd prefer to sell them locally but I know that's unlikely. Seattle area, btw. If you pick up locally, you can have all their supplies, including their substrate mixes (sphagnum moss, perlite, $8 bag of orchid media), the pots with what remains of their Neps (some still have live shoots, but they're hurting), their heat lamps and bulbs, meters, aqualifter pump, etc.You might convince me to give up their cage, which is a very cool 18x18x24"T glass cage with hinged front doors.
$50 for the snakes and anoles, overnight shipping will be additional, probably be anywhere from $40-60 (business address saves $$ plus someone's there to accept the package), or pick up locally and get the whole shebang for $50 even. A deal.
I'm sure I've forgotten something because it's late and I'm inexplicably (sort of) awake, but if you have any questions about the animals themselves, feel free to ask. Oh, like gender: one male, one female. Heh. Forgetting obvious points = lol!
EXPERIENCED KEEPERS ONLY - KNOWLEDGE OF HERPETOCULTURE IS WHAT I MEAN; OF THIS SPECIES IS NOT PARTICULARLY NECESSARY
SEATTLE OR SHIP
What their lush home once looked like:
They're always cognizant of their surroundings. Here they're keeping a watchful eye over me. Notice the strange, slit-shaped, horizontal pupils.
Alpha female gulping down an anole:
For those worried about the teeth, they're very small and inefficient. (Not my snakes pic'd here.)
This is what they do to them in their home countries. (API)
Edited by Caesar777, 01 March 2008 - 03:18 AM.