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Dustin11's Fluval EDGE build


Dustin11

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Current FTS

 

Oct 8, 2010

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Hi All!

I've recently acquired a Fluval EDGE which I will be turning into a pico reef! My goals for this tank are:

-keep softies

-keep six line wrasse

-maintenance required only once a week

-maintain stock appearance

 

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With that said, the first and most obvious concern to all Fluval EDGE owners is the LIGHTING!!!!!!!

I decided to go with dual 50/50 coralife 10w bulbs.

I've mounted them in the hood in front of a reflector.

 

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I used epoxy putty to mount everything inside the lid. I'm still not convinced that I have enough light and I'm still looking for good alternatives. One that I thought of is to simply use dual 50/50 20w coralife bulbs. I already have these and can confirm that there is no easy way to fit these in the hood with the stock filtration unit in the back!!!! If the filter wasn't there they could easily mount length wise. Which brings me to my second idea: use a canister filter :D .

This would actually solve two problems at once! It would leave room to mount my larger lights AND give me more room for my filter media!

I want to try the Hiatt filtration system in this tank. I've never used it before, instead always relying on the traditional sump, refugium, skimmer etc. But after reading up on I decided I really have to try it for my self. fingerscrossed

For the 6 gallons in this tank, Hiatt recommends 1lb of their tribase pellitized carbon. I ordered it and quickly found out that it will most certainly will NOT fit in an ac20!!!!!!! :tears:

thus the canister filter option.....

 

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As you can see here, the size difference of the filter and 1lb of the tribase carbon. And also the chemi-pure which will be going in somewhere :huh:

 

I'm also really trying to think of a good ATO option, one that's clean, simple, cheap, and stealthy :ninja:

Anyone have any good ideas?

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Ok here is an update on what I did to the tank over the weekend.

first off, my FTS with a beer next to it, the beer was for me though B)

 

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Now I want to show off what I did for the lighting. Many people complain that using MR16 LEDs still give too much of a spotlight effect. I really didn't want a spotlight effect so I used dual 50/50 10w coral life bulbs and a diffuser splash guard. Here is the splash guard/diffuser installed. What do you think?

 

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This last image kinda shows how much of a spotlight effect I get. I'm pretty happy with the results so far!!!

As soon as all the salt has dissolved I'll put in some aragonite and some small test corals to see how the light shines on them.

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is the splash guard needed. will the lights go bad if water gets to it..?

 

i just purchased a 10 wt 50/50 bulb that i was going to mount it in front of the stock set up. check my sig for my set up.

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I'm not completely sure if a splash guard is needed. I just assumed it was. All the all-in-one tanks that I know of have splash guards, so I guess that's why i thought it was important. I would probably have it one there even if it wasn't needed just to help distribute the light a bit better.

Are you thinking about adding the 50/50 on top of the other lights you have, or replacing some?

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I'm not completely sure if a splash guard is needed. I just assumed it was. All the all-in-one tanks that I know of have splash guards, so I guess that's why i thought it was important. I would probably have it one there even if it wasn't needed just to help distribute the light a bit better.

Are you thinking about adding the 50/50 on top of the other lights you have, or replacing some?

 

i am adding them to my current lighting system as I have already installed a socket on my lighting fixture. just waiting for my bulbs to get in. I ordered an extra one in case the first one blows out due to water. ill post pics on my thread after work.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi All!

 

Here is a quick update. I haven't really had the chance to work on my EDGE much lately as my 60gal cube has been taking my precious little aquarium time. But here are some things I have done and some things I've learned along the way. First some pics! :)

 

Full Tank Shot

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Closer Shot

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The Top, with lights and intake and outflow

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Below, Canister filter, and chemicals.

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I was really intrigued by the RightNow! Bacteria and Tribased pellitized carbon system and really wanted to try it, so I tried it on this tank. So far I'm not that impressed, though maybe i'm doing it wrong. I have the canister filter filled with 6lbs of tribased pellitized carbon and 1 unit of Chemi-Pure elite.

 

I knew about the canister filter stigma in reef tanks well before I decided to try this, but still did anyways b/c the RightNow! system is quite different from the traditional use of a canister filter. However after a few months I'm not too happy with it and am probably going to put the aquaclear 20 back on and stuff it with just chemi-pure or some macro-algae

 

As for lighting I only have 2 10w Coralife 50/50 PC bulbs which are enough for my hammer coral, mushrooms and zoanthids, but just barely. They don't grow or exhibits great colors. I really wish I could fit 2 20W 50/50 Coralife bulbs in the hood with the stock filter but alas it is not possible. I'm still thinking of ideas to squeeze more light into the stock hood. Does anyone have any good suggestions? Perhaps i should give up my dreams of keeping the hood "stock" :)

 

One other issue is related to proper aeration of the water. Since I switched to a canister filter the water has not been getting proper aeration, as one would expect :) . I did a temporary fix by just sticking the skimmer from my old BC14 in there. This effectively aerates the water but doesn't allow micro-bubbles to roam free :)

 

To permanently fix this I have two options I'm weighing.

1. remove canister and put the AC20 back on. Put a light on the filter and some macro algae.

2. create a spray bar for the canister return. Put a light in the canister and some macro algae.

 

I like the canister because it potentially opens up the top lid for more space to put in the larger 20w coralife 50/50 bulbs. Any thoughts?

 

I haven't done much in terms of livestock because I'm still working on how I want the mechanics of the system to work. I am just using some extra frags from my larger tank to "test" things out so far.

 

Thanks for following! I'd love to hear any and all thoughts and recommendations!! :)

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I gave up on the stock hood. its not possible to get enough lights in there with the right spectrum. im running 2 coralife 50/50 20 watts in my custom hood. I am planning to take out the stock fixture and stick in a 3rd one in. The coral are doing really well with the 2 20 watts. i just purchased a frogspawn and he is very happy with the light he is getting. It did however get very hot under my hood. 77-85 degrees.

 

So to fix this i installed a fan under the hood. The temp now stays at 76-78 degrees. It actually warmer in the tank after the lights/fan go off. Only problem is the evaporation! which is almost a inch a day! im going to try to fix this by:

 

1) installing a ATO system some how..

 

2) add something to slow down the fan so it will evaporate less.

 

in the end, i could of spent a few extra bucks and bought a chiller. =/

 

good luck with your edge.

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I finally did some upgrades over this past weekend! Here they are....

 

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Notice my fancy new 2 20W Coralife 50/50 bulbs!?!?! Behind them is a polished reflector. I also painted the entire inside of the top white. This should save some of those aberrant photons :) This has drastically improved my lighting from the 2 10w 50/50 bulbs and all black interior from before.

I'm ALMOST completely satisfied with it.

 

You'll also notice my new spray bar (the white PVC on the right) This is connected to the return from my canister filter and is held just above the water's surface. I use the rubber band to fine tune exactly how far above the water the spray bar is. If it's too far above the water it's noisy and creates bubbles in the tank. If it's to far down, it's no longer a spraybar and just pumps the water in below the surface.

 

Thoughts about spray bars: If the only reason for a spray bar is to aerate the retruning water, would it work just as well if it was below the water surface but sprayed upwards? Not enough spray to shoot above the water surface but enough to always flow to the top and then around and down? I think i may try this. The returning flow will get aerated but with no noise or bubbles.

 

Here is a different view of the lights with the intake and return.

 

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With the spray bar I finally got rid of that BioCube skimmer I had in there. :)

 

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Here is a shot comparing my new lighting to the midday sun. It really puts it into perspective!!! I think I have enough for softies to be Very happy now, but its nowhere near the intensity of the sun. Maybe its the intensity of the sun at 20ft of clear tropical water???

 

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Picture also includes my two dogs and my cat's tail :)

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@dstruong: I don't know how hot my tank gets, I set my heater awhile back and removed the thermometer, which subsequently broke. So honestly, i have no idea what temperature my tank is, LOL :)

The evaporation is no worse then when i was operating 2 10W bulbs. I have to top off maybe once a week. This represents about 0.5 inch drop in the smaller opening section.

I'm not running any fans but the top still has that open grating which seems to be completely adequate so far. We'll see how adequate this is once I go get another thermometer!!!

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@dstruong: I don't know how hot my tank gets, I set my heater awhile back and removed the thermometer, which subsequently broke. So honestly, i have no idea what temperature my tank is, LOL :)

The evaporation is no worse then when i was operating 2 10W bulbs. I have to top off maybe once a week. This represents about 0.5 inch drop in the smaller opening section.

I'm not running any fans but the top still has that open grating which seems to be completely adequate so far. We'll see how adequate this is once I go get another thermometer!!!

 

ok sounds good. I am trying to keep my temp down to reduce the aglae! lol

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So I got another thermometer and checked my temperature this week. The tank running with full light and filtration maintains a minimum of 5 degrees above ambient. I have my thermostat set to 80, so when the ambient is at 75 or below, the tank is at 80. At 80 deg ambient (as it was this weekend when I shut off the AC) the tank was 85 :wacko:

Needless to say I'll keep the AC on and turn up my thermostat to 82 to keep things more stable :)

 

I've never heard of the relationship between temperature and algae though!?!? I'll do some research.

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So I got another thermometer and checked my temperature this week. The tank running with full light and filtration maintains a minimum of 5 degrees above ambient. I have my thermostat set to 80, so when the ambient is at 75 or below, the tank is at 80. At 80 deg ambient (as it was this weekend when I shut off the AC) the tank was 85 :wacko:

Needless to say I'll keep the AC on and turn up my thermostat to 82 to keep things more stable :)

 

I've never heard of the relationship between temperature and algae though!?!? I'll do some research.

 

i read in a few places that algae grows faster in warmer waters. i could be crazy though.

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you may be right SoCalDude. Its actually a small 6-line from my 60gal tank that is making my life difficult :) Picking at things he shouldn't be picking at!!!! He's only about 1" long. Also, he's stayed that length for the past 2.5 years I've owned him! If I think he's having trouble after putting him in the 6gal, I'll move him back.

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UPDATE!!!!

So last weekend I started turning my canister filter into a canister/fuge!!!

Below is a picture guide of the process.

I don't have any macro algae or anything fuge-like in it yet because I'm still testing it out.

 

This is the stock hood of the canister filter, the filter is an Rena Filstar XP2.

 

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This is the inlet strainer that comes with the filter to be used at the intake. I modified it slightly to be able to fit over the two ridges on each side. Its pressure fit to keep it in place but can be removed and cleaned easily.

 

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I sliped a small foam inlet peice over the strainer, also and easy snug fit. I've also attached a small black hose with a Hydor Flo to the inlet nozzel. The hose does not snugly fit so i put a few drops of superglue on it. It will stay in place but can still be removed if need be. There are also holes drilled through out the hose in an attempt to create a more gentle and disperse flow.

 

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Here is the system put back together :)

I don't have a picture of it here, but I have a small CF puck light simply duct tapped to the back. The light is very similar to this:

CF puck light, similar

 

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I just have a bag of chemipure and phosphate media sitting in their for the time being.

 

I've grown macro algae under this type of light before in a Biocube and worked VERY WELL. the canister filter does have some light attenuation through the body plastic, but I would estimates its only reduced by half. The picture shows the light looking through TWO layers of it of coarse, and as you can see its still quite bright. I will probably add another light or two though to make up for this loss.

Also, the light doesn't seem to affect the temperature very much at all, plus it will only be on at night by design, so it doubly won't affect it :)

 

I'd love to hear any ideas or questions about this! Thanks!

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NOTHER UPDATE!!!

 

Here is my new CANISTER/FUGE complete with cheatomorpha and some aragonite :)

The flow is still pretty high so I guess its more of a cheato holder then an actual fuge.

 

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  • 1 month later...

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