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Cultivated Reef

LEDs over a 10g


ir0n_ma1den

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After looking at all my lighting options I'm afraid that 150w MH will be overkill for my little 10g and I would also need to buy a new $50 bulb for it.

 

 

Parts list:

6 Cree Royal Blue XR-E LEDs ($7.50 per star)

6 Cree Q5 Cool-White XR-E LEDs ($8.92 per star)

1 1000mA Wired dimming BuckPuck ($15.98)

1 power supply (??? can't find that 6.5A one from www.mpja.com)

 

 

That's what I have so far, I'm not too sure how big of a heatsink I should get.

 

EDIT: I'm scraping the LED can idea.

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What's the difference between a Buckpuck with external dimming and a buckpuck with external dimming and a pot?

 

Are these the same as this?

 

The one with a pot already has a potentiometer attached so you dont need to add your own.

 

They look the same to me except dealextreme specify the colour bin (WG) which is what most people on here use.

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The one with a pot already has a potentiometer attached so you dont need to add your own.

 

They look the same to me except dealextreme specify the colour bin (WG) which is what most people on here use.

 

Cool, so I'll save a bit of money ordering through DX.

 

Next set of questions:

 

What is the spread of each LED without any lense?

 

I need to know this because I'm having a hard time choosing the right sized heatsink. Standard 10 gallon dimesions are 20"x10"x12", so based off that, what would be a good sized heatsink?

 

Before I go to bed I want to get confirmation on my parts list before I go ahead and order tommorrow:

 

6 Cree Royal Blue XR-E LEDs

6 Cree Q5 Cool-White XR-E LEDs

1 1000mA Wired dimming BuckPuck (or do I need two??)

1 24V 6.5A powersupply

1 heatsink (still need to decide on the right size)

 

 

I think that is it. Comments are welcomed (NEEDED) :)

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You will need 2 buckpucks as they can only run 6 LEDs each. I think the standard angle without optics is 90 degrees.

 

Im not sure about the best size for the heatsink.. Im sure evil will chime in about that.

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12 LEDs isn't really going to be enough for a 10g. For reasonable coverage, you would have to spread the LEDs out to 3". It's borderline for spotlighting. 16 LEDs would be better, but you will need two more Buckpucks if you want full color seperation. You could get away with adding just one and having the extra 4 LEDs (2 white, 2 blue) on it and using that as your second stage for a dawn/dusk effect.

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12 LEDs isn't really going to be enough for a 10g. For reasonable coverage, you would have to spread the LEDs out to 3". It's borderline for spotlighting. 16 LEDs would be better, but you will need two more Buckpucks if you want full color seperation. You could get away with adding just one and having the extra 4 LEDs (2 white, 2 blue) on it and using that as your second stage for a dawn/dusk effect.

 

hmmm...

 

So if I went for 16 LEDs and sacrificed a little color seperation I would still have to get 3 buckpucks and 4 more LEDs which equates to more money...

 

I'm not arguing with what you're saying as I know you understand the LED game much better than I do, but I think I'm going to try and make 12 work. I'll think of something.

 

Again, looking back at this setup, it looks as though 12 might be enough.

 

still need to decide on a heatsink size, will 12"x8.5" fit the job?

 

Updated parts list:

6 Cree Royal Blue XR-E LEDs

6 Cree Q5 Cool-White XR-E LEDs

2 1000mA Wired dimming w/ pot BuckPuck

1 24V 6.5A powersupply

1 heatsink (still need to decide on the right size)

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The reason that setup works is the height of the LEDs above the tank. It gives you a lot more spread, but less intensity. Most people setting up arrays on flat heatsinks like you are have the LEDs a lot closer to the water, and need more LEDs to reduce dark spots at the ends of the tank.

 

The 8.5" heatsink will work fine, but you can use the 5.375" small heatsink. With only tow rows 3" apart, it's plenty of room, and plenty of heatsink. It will save you a few bucks too. I'd suggest going longer than 12" though. You want to spread the LEDs out as far as possible, and you will need at least 16" for 3" spacing center to center.

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The reason that setup works is the height of the LEDs above the tank. It gives you a lot more spread, but less intensity. Most people setting up arrays on flat heatsinks like you are have the LEDs a lot closer to the water, and need more LEDs to reduce dark spots at the ends of the tank.

 

The 8.5" heatsink will work fine, but you can use the 5.375" small heatsink. With only tow rows 3" apart, it's plenty of room, and plenty of heatsink. It will save you a few bucks too. I'd suggest going longer than 12" though. You want to spread the LEDs out as far as possible, and you will need at least 16" for 3" spacing center to center.

 

If I do add that much height to my setup, would I really be losing a substantial amount of intensity?

I get the impression that it wouldn't matter to much if I raised an LED setup since the things are so damn intense in the first place.

 

Updated list (again):

6 Cree Royal Blue XR-E LEDs

6 Cree Q5 Cool-White XR-E LEDs

2 1000mA Wired dimming w/ pot BuckPuck

1 24V 6.5A powersupply

1 16"x5.375" heatsink

 

 

P.S. I could add 2 fans in this circuit no problem, right?

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6 Cree Royal Blue XR-E LEDs (ordered)

6 Cree Q5 Cool-White XR-E LEDs (ordered)

2 1000mA Wired dimming w/ pot BuckPuck (ordered)

1 24V 6.5A powersupply

1 16"x5.375" heatsink (ordered)

 

For wiring I'm going with 24 gauge wire and 1/32" heatshrink. Sound good?

 

Also, what does tapping do? I don't quite understand it, why can't you just drill holes in the heatsink and then use some screws to mount the stars?

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If you use machine screws, you need to cut the threads into the hole before you can thread the screw in. That's what the tap is for. Some have had success with using self tapping screws.

 

24AWG wire will be fine between the LEDs, but you will need bigger from the power supply to the driver. 1/32" heatshrink isn't going to fit a lot of anything. Use 1/8" to 3/16". Most polyolephin heatshrink has a 3:1 shrink ratio.

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If you use machine screws, you need to cut the threads into the hole before you can thread the screw in. That's what the tap is for. Some have had success with using self tapping screws.

 

24AWG wire will be fine between the LEDs, but you will need bigger from the power supply to the driver. 1/32" heatshrink isn't going to fit a lot of anything. Use 1/8" to 3/16". Most polyolephin heatshrink has a 3:1 shrink ratio.

 

what gauge would you recommend for the power supply to driver? 16AWG?

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6 Cree Royal Blue XR-E LEDs (ordered)

6 Cree Q5 Cool-White XR-E LEDs (ordered)

2 1000mA Wired dimming w/ pot BuckPuck (ordered)

1 24V 6.5A powersupply (ordered)

1 16"x5.375" heatsink (ordered)

 

Misc:

4ft 1/8" heatshrink (ordered)

arctic silver

18AWG and 24AWG wire (or just the 18AWG)

tapping tools (i may actually have these)

 

 

anything else?

 

I'm excited to get this thing going

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Nylon washers are there to insulate the screw from any electrical connections.

 

You can use either M3 or 4-40 screws. Use #4 washers under them.

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minimonsterLED

If you are using some sort of ultra sticky thermal epoxy, it seems counter-intuitive to use screws aswell since the led's don't weigh much...does the epoxy lose it's tack at higher temperatures/over time?

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