Need help getting rid of bryopsis

[Halo_003]

So.. I have bryopsis, a couple spots of bubble algae and some weird wirery red algae that has gradually all popped up in my tank. I'm so frustrated with it. I tried dosing 1ml/gal new H202, no effect. I tried removing rocks, scrubbing and peroxide dipping them. Algae came back. I tried peroxide dips and then scrubbing and spot applying peroxide. Algae came back.

 

I'm now using Tech M, my Mg level was at 1400ppm, it's been at 2000-2100ppm for almost two weeks now, and the bryopsis looks just a dandy shade of green, and my BTAs are all mad as hell, and don't want to hold on to rocks.

 

What should I do? I've considered just moving my BTAs/clown to a 5G tank, my corals to another, and letting my main rock dry out and start over with it, but that process would be a major PITA as I'm only home on weekends.

[dagentooboy]

I am having the same problem with bryopsis. I used the Tech M first and I am now trying the H2O2. I have been trying to find a commercial algaecide that will wipe it out but no luck yet.

[brandon429]

Dagen i bet you have about an 80% chance those external treatments as pictured will fix you up.

 

Halo is different, a 20% er. Bryopsis is bad about not complying sometimes

 

growback is an issue, not the original kill. this happens when the holdfast systems of various algae are allowed to seat in deep to the rock, it takes more effort to win. doing the 3% peroxide outside of the tank may not prevent all growback, we have to step it up.

 

-should focus on getting a target rock to comply, not the whole tank with these kinds of issues. too many variables have to be tried to use the time acting on the whole tank, use the test rock and try the scraping test mentioned, the 35%, the combined dosers all outside of tank, for these 20% type challenges we dose nothing to the water and do all work external, beyond the 3% options since it wont work for some of the real challenge tanks. where external treatment wont work, rarely does acting on the water with any additive, this is why the Kent isn't working so well at least as a total cure. problem tanks need all external work to amplify the actions taken to kill the target. even just changing up how you use tech M can fix you possibly, no doses to the tank but doses right to the target. then a follow up with peroxide, a creative combo w help we always find one. nanos are easy to work with its the larger tanks that are challenging since the rocks cant be removed.

 

have to considering cleaning as well, if you have detritus in the sandbed, or in the rocks, that's a feed causing growback

 

have to consider re acclimating your lighting. currently it runs full production mode but the tank is enduring an algae challenge, that light needs to be scaled back in a way the corals will permit, then reacclimated later, so that it doesn't fuel algae growback. the whites need to be dialed back if possible, more blues during fix runs.

 

 

also consider different approaches as preventatives like algae scrubbers or GFo reactors sea hares

[Jcon_343]

Brandon,

 

You're posts are always so helpful and in depth. Every time I see that you reply to something i always skim through the thread just to see what you have to say.

 

Cheers bud.

[brandon429]

Jcon that is nice of you! I have a fixation with zapping algae, collecting after pics it's just too much nerd fun.

 

I apply these actions in my own tank to use the medicine offered as conventional algae control has left ten thousand aquariums still invaded. People add brainstorm options to what we've tried and options build for these true challenge tanks ideally

 

 

See last post: a rasper! Sure, he used a power tool which I'd like to shake his hand but the point was creativity, and this is definately surface rasping. I used rasping/actual small etching into the areas where valonia had set in my pico, it's gone too

 

Rasping is for 2016

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2569457

 

Those who already feel spot treatments were too brash to be legit ought to really be impressed with taking a dremel to a rock heh

[Jcon_343]

Agreed, when I found the H202 post a while back and saw how long ago it was created, I was in shock it was still going today!

[Halo_003]

Hi Brandon,

 

Thank you for the detailed post! I started this week doing 10mL of peroxide per day dosage, the Tech M is at 1950PPM right now, I cleaned out my reactors and put in new GFO, I also pulled the loose frags out and dipped them all in 1/2 cup of 3% peroxide and 1 cup of SW. I'm hoping that all of this will take a toll on the pest algaes and nuke them. I will keep this thread updated on how it's going.

 

I'm only at home with the tank on weekends until the end of April when I should have more time to focus on it, so target application of Tech M and peroxide will have to wait until then if I can keep it under control for now.

[smeagol108]

All else fails, blue tuxedo urchin, some emeralds, and get urself an algae scrubber. I have a Santa Monica hog .5 and love it. Those animals trimmed it all

Back and eventually the scrubber starved it out. Haven't seen the two types of nuisance macro I had in months. I did all u did, and that's what finally killed my nuisance macroalgae problems.

[Jcon_343]

Don't want to post jack.

 

@Brandon I remember when going through the H2O2 post. Was there ever a thread that was created of corals that do good with a peroxide dip along with ones that had ill effects? I remember seeing some sort of small list. But honestly. Don't want to scroll through 1000+ pages lol.

 

Thanks.

[brandon429]

Yes we dose tanks closely by those lists

we try to avoid nontarget dipping if at all possible. I figure if the rock is in the air, and in hand, then target drop only around the base of corals, or use paint brushes for spot applying, don't treat the polyp. But for full tank runs that are required, or dips for whatever reason this is out going guide

zoanthids are not killed by any mode of contact if they are healthy and colonial as their name implies. singular, tall skinny nonconnected zoas are already in a state of decline and some insult can make them do the final release. we class zoanthids as literally immune to any peroxide including any percentage, I routinely burn mine with 35% and they are open an hour later. hard burning, crisp them white with it. 1-2 hours the white is gone, full open, amazing. that amount on my skin would be a second degree burn with infection potential.

the weakest organism in all of reefdom to peroxide is lysmata shrimp and cousins blood shrimp but primarily lysmata...any contact any percentage no matter how dilute can kill

 

xenia can get stressed

decorative macros

coralline too, it can lighten then comes back.

corals, other than one off and rare examples posted where I cannot tie decline into peroxide use due to no patterns, I don't find sensitive. that includes pretty much any coral named under a 1 mil per 10 gallons max dose/dip dilution. Even hosting anems like heteractis, mentioned as sensitive, don't really die they just act mad then reinflate or move around due to the stress.

Seriatopora, formerly listed as a sensitive also because they don't like being emersed which is required to dip a rock...even those corals are being collected now in the threads as fully dipped, some of them even sprayed with nondiluted 3% to get out algae among the branches (I wouldn't do but enjoy the posted pics)

small pods can die, and wrasses eat them too im not sure that's a big deal.

fire worms will for sure die, hermodice=sensitives like lysmata, so watch for tank cycling issues if live rocks have these worms and a lot die off

*we've had reports that peroxide changed the color tones of zos sps etc.

Also check my edit above see that reef central thread

Now that's rasping heh, dremel and wire brush

[Jcon_343]

You rock!