Starting an edge

[StrifeX]

Hello everyone. I'm very new to this hobby and am excited to get going. I'm glad I've found such an informative site. I received a 12g fluval edge as a gift and would like to set it up as a nano reef. After reading I see that I need the following:

• Heater
• Live Rock
• Salt water
• Powerhead

So as I understand, the live rock as well as any "cleanup crew" I get would serve to filter the tank, however, (and I'm sorry if this is a stupid question), do I need to do anything to the stock filtration system in the back? Also, as I understand, live sand isn't necessary, but could quicken process. So my current plan is to gather all of the above, and begin "cycling". I assume the water changes still take place at this point. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[brandon429]

Welcome! This read will cover new tank cycling in full detail.
http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-tank-cycling-tank-bacteria-and-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/

Nothing is needed for the life of the tank beyond rock and sand, lights, feed and water changes. Zero dosers or additives are needed and the tank can be run without any filter compartment whatsoever, whatever you want to put or not put in the compartment does not matter. The salt brand you use doesn't matter, all salts mix up to params that support coral



cured live rock is that strong of a filter. This bare method keeps the same corals and fish alive as the full bells and whistles system $1000 will keep, but this setup requires water change work weekly as the trade off if it was mine I'd do 3-5 gallons or more a week. The higher percentage water change you do, the better, not the least. Changing large volumes of water doesn't upset a reef, it makes it live for many years my posts show. Changing lesser amounts is ok too and can be done more frequently if that mode is chosen.

When you see the fancy tanks with all fancy gear that is ok too and they are using automation and various tech to reduce weekly water change work, trading off by $$ gear

 

there are certain dosers you can use to change colors in your corals but nothing is needed beyond water changes and feeding to grow the typical corals you see on the boards, people do this in jars to demo the method.

That's the most accurate way to see all the various things we might or might not add. Nothing is actually required for filtration beyond simple rocks and sand

[charnelhouse]

While many of brandon's opinions are valid, other people would disagree with him in that they are opinions.

 

A huge part of this hobby is developing your own opinions based on what works for YOU.

 

I'll try and answer your specific question(s) though rather than proselytizing you to my opinion. Be aware that my statements are generalizations, as I know nothing about your plans or desires for this tank.

 

Live rock offers a surface for the bacteria that are the biological filter in reef aquaria. They (the bacteria) do the vast majority of the work of changing the ammonia (which is highly toxic to life) that results from biological processes in your tank into nitrates (which are far less toxic). The rock itself actually does very little other than house the bacteria (and leftover food, and fish poop and etc., but that's another story).

 

Live sand can serve a similar purpose, but some people prefer a bare bottom tank for ease of maintenance. If you choose to go bare bottom, you have to be aware there are some species of life (some wrasse and some anemones for instance) that need sand to thrive.

 

I'm not sure what the Edge series has for stock filtration, but generally speaking stock filtration in AIO tanks sucks. It usually consists of ceramic media or sponges that become a holding area for "detritus" that will rot and cause elevated nutrient levels in the tank. Most people replace the stock filtration media with something along the lines of Purigen, Chemi-Pure, Phosgard or the like.

 

I'm going to add a few things to your list above that are musts if you really want to be successful:

 

• Water Test Kit - The API Saltwater Master Kit is a good starting point to get you through the cycle process. It won't be the last tests you buy though if you stick with this.
• A different light than the stock Edge light if you plan on keeping anything but the "easiest" corals.
• An Automatic Top Off (ATO) to add fresh water to the tank as water evaporates.

Lastly I am going to say that before you start adding inhabitants to the tank do A LOT more research online. This forum is a great place to READ everything you can about the stuff you want to keep. It is not the only place though.

[ajmckay]

While many of brandon's opinions are valid, other people would disagree with him in that they are opinions.

 

A huge part of this hobby is developing your own opinions based on what works for YOU.

 

Well sort of... Biology is biology right? The processes happening at a microscopic level are the same in every tank.

 

Cycling methods have really been pretty well optimized as far as a beginning hobbyist is concerned. Once you pick the basis for your tank (cured or uncured live rock, dry rock, no rock, live sand, dry sand, etc...) you could choose between any number of methods to cycle a tank and obviously anyone is free to do it however they want. But honestly using most of these methods usually results in excess tank pollution, risk to animals, and extra time spent cycling. Do a search for cycling an aquarium and you'll find all sorts of things from using a damselfish to putting in a raw shrimp or other seafood to urinating in the aquarium.

 

The quickest, cleanest, and most reliable method as far as beginners are concerned is ammonia dosing for any situation except where one is using uncured live rock or really dirty dry rock (in those 2 scenarios there is likely enough ammonia production in the rock to cycle the aquarium).

 

As for the other recommendations I would agree. Not sure how much of an issue evaporation is with the edge but if you ever plan to be out of town for a week an ATO is very useful.

 

Lighting is also important. Typically the stock edge lighting is replaced when used as a reef tank for something more powerful. There's even an edge specific saltwater conversion kit that you can get to make it better suited to saltwater by changing the filtration setup to be more useful to SW and also upgrades the lighting.

 

Finally don't forget a refractometer or hydrometer.

[charnelhouse]

 

Well sort of... Biology is biology right? The processes happening at a microscopic level are the same in every tank.

 

I was referring more to size of water changes, expensive gear vs. low budget, etc.

 

As far as the microscopic processes being the same in every tank I could argue with that, but my arguments wouldn't be any less anecdotal than that statement My personal belief is that every tank probably has bacterial individuality and processes stuff differently. This is why things that work in one tank don't necessarily work in another. But that is only a personal feeling and not based on any evidence whatsoever.

 

...to urinating in the aquarium.

 

Wha, wha, what?? That's a new one on me... hahaha.... could be a great build thread name in that though...

 

 

Finally don't forget a refractometer or hydrometer.

 

I KNEW I was forgetting something!

[ajmckay]

Hehe I won't google it since I'm at work but seriously that was a thing a few years back... Not sure where it originated but there were some lolz.

 

 

Also, assuming you'll be mixing your own saltwater don't forget buckets... Lots of 5g buckets. And an extra heater/powerhead for mixing.