Evil Cluster color ratio/spectrum settings...

[Confuse]

I was hoping to gather up some information on achieving the preferred spectrum/color in your evil clusters. I know some people are using the 950B or the 1450B and two or three royal blues per Bridgelux, so results may vary based on their ratios.

 

My Evil Cluster (1:3:2:3:8)

1 Bridgelux 950B

3 Luxeon M RB

2 Cyan

3 Cool Blue

8 Hyper Violet

 

I've been trying to achieve a 14-18K look without being overpowered by blue, but on the other hand, avoiding the yellow of the NW.

 

This is what I'm currently running

 

950B @ 40%

Luxeon M @ 58%

Cyan 100%

Cool Blue 100%

Hyper Violet 100%

 

 

Anyone else have some numbers to throw out?

[Confuse]

Bump! Anyone?

[jedimasterben]

I run the same percentage across the board for everything but violet, those peak at 100%. Gives a nice crisp white with a bit of blue, but still with the pop that the royals give.

[NirvanaandTool]

What current are you guys running the separate channels at? Looking at building one of these in the next month or two but I'm thinking more of a 14k look. I like a little less blue than most.

[kory1006]

Running my CB, HV, and RB all at 75% (all on the same channel). 950 NW are running just under 50%.

[jedimasterben]

What current are you guys running the separate channels at? Looking at building one of these in the next month or two but I'm thinking more of a 14k look. I like a little less blue than most.

500mA through the BXRA, 700mA through the RB M, 1000mA in the blue and cyan Rebels, and 700mA through the HV. You'll want to do one very similar to mine, then.

[Adrnalnrsh]

500mA through the BXRA, 700mA through the RB M, 1000mA in the blue and cyan Rebels, and 700mA through the HV. You'll want to do one very similar to mine, then.

 

Thinking about an evil cluster for my 90 gallon (48x18x24). But looking for 20k. I want as much even spread as I can get, so more LED"s less power would be ideal. Think i can run a similar setup minus the optics and still get 100-200 par at the bottom?

 

 

I am considering doing 2 pods per side, with strips surrounding the pods to avoid shadows and dark corners.

[jedimasterben]

Basically, to get a 12K-ish look (which is a crisp white with a hint of blue), you need approximately a 1:10 ratio of lumens of white to mW of royal blue. So if you have a 300lm neutral white LED, you want at least 3000mW of royal blue (which is roughly two royal blue from the same company and line, ie XT-E or Rebel/ES).

 

The golden standard for a 20K look is a Radium 400w driven on a magnetic ballast, which overdrives the bulb to around 500-520w. Running it lower (ie on a different style of ballast) will alter the spectral output and make it look smurf blue. A 20K Radium is really closer to 16K at the most. That being said, that is where they look their absolute best, stunning, really.

 

To match that, you need at least a 1:15 ratio of lumens to mW, so for that same 300lm chip, you want 4500mW of royal blue, so around 3x of them. To push it even more blue, use a 1:20 ratio, but I wouldn't go higher than that, otherwise you lose color rendition because of such heavy blue.

 

Also, keep in mind to use one regular/standard blue LED for every four royal blue LEDs you have, they brighten up the look of the light and help eliminate the purple hue that you get when the red from the NW mixes with the royal blue.

[Adrnalnrsh]

Thanks, so without optics how many Bridgelux 950's would you use on a 90 (48x18x24)?

[jedimasterben]

Check out this post here for numbers using a 1350B, which is the 950's older brother with about 50% more output at 1000mA. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-building-an-evil-cluster-diy-led-on-steroids/?p=4353709

[Adrnalnrsh]

Check out this post here for numbers using a 1350B, which is the 950's older brother with about 50% more output at 1000mA. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-building-an-evil-cluster-diy-led-on-steroids/?p=4353709

 

So the par readings were without water in the tank, is that correct? It would seem to me that without optics/reflectors, I won't get decent par #'s at 24" under water. Not really looking to hang the fixture 1-2' high. Is this correct?

 

The spread seemed really good with the reflectors and really really wide without. So it seems to me that the reflectors definitely help control the light. Seeing how I don't want the fixture more than 4-8 inches above the tank, I have to find 80/90 degree reflectors, which I am under the impression I won't be able to.

[jedimasterben]

Water will help refract the light, and readings will vary depending on surface agitation, but as long as your water is good quality (hell, even mediocre quality) the numbers will be relatively the same, or higher because of refraction.

 

I would have the lights at least 10" off the water to get good spread with reflectors.

[Adrnalnrsh]

Water will help refract the light, and readings will vary depending on surface agitation, but as long as your water is good quality (hell, even mediocre quality) the numbers will be relatively the same, or higher because of refraction.

 

I would have the lights at least 10" off the water to get good spread with reflectors.

 

Ok, but as far as your recommendations goes, you'd recommend reflectors vs none? I hate the spotlight affect where the top edges are dimm. What are the widest reflectors for the Luxeon M's and 1350B that you've seen?

[jedimasterben]

I would absolutely recommend reflectors - my old setup was lens-less, and while I was able to get plenty of power at 100% with the LEDs ~8" above the tank, the light spill into the room was ludicrous and blinding. Now, with my evil clusters hung at 16" above the tank, there is far less light spill and it's not bliding unless I'm looking up into the light.

[NirvanaandTool]

500mA through the BXRA, 700mA through the RB M, 1000mA in the blue and cyan Rebels, and 700mA through the HV. You'll want to do one very similar to mine, then.

 

Ok cool. Thanks for the info Jedi.

.

I saw in one of your posts you were thinking of reducing the amount of Luxeon M's and driving them at 1000mA instead. Are you still thinking this or are you going to leave them be?

 

 

Basically, to get a 12K-ish look (which is a crisp white with a hint of blue), you need approximately a 1:10 ratio of lumens of white to mW of royal blue. So if you have a 300lm neutral white LED, you want at least 3000mW of royal blue (which is roughly two royal blue from the same company and line, ie XT-E or Rebel/ES).

 

The golden standard for a 20K look is a Radium 400w driven on a magnetic ballast, which overdrives the bulb to around 500-520w. Running it lower (ie on a different style of ballast) will alter the spectral output and make it look smurf blue. A 20K Radium is really closer to 16K at the most. That being said, that is where they look their absolute best, stunning, really.

 

To match that, you need at least a 1:15 ratio of lumens to mW, so for that same 300lm chip, you want 4500mW of royal blue, so around 3x of them. To push it even more blue, use a 1:20 ratio, but I wouldn't go higher than that, otherwise you lose color rendition because of such heavy blue.

 

Also, keep in mind to use one regular/standard blue LED for every four royal blue LEDs you have, they brighten up the look of the light and help eliminate the purple hue that you get when the red from the NW mixes with the royal blue.

 

Perfect! Thanks for posting these guidelines for lumens. Never seen these before.That will be really useful in the planning stages.

[jedimasterben]

Ok cool. Thanks for the info Jedi.

.

I saw in one of your posts you were thinking of reducing the amount of Luxeon M's and driving them at 1000mA instead. Are you still thinking this or are you going to leave them be?

Yes, that is what I am going to do. Still toying around with how I will want the heatsinks, whether one row across the center will give enough spread, or if I still want two separated heatsinks perpendicular to the front.

 

Perfect! Thanks for posting these guidelines for lumens. Never seen these before.That will be really useful in the planning stages.

Basically just took the standard 'guidelines' and added up the numbers. If you look on my evil cluster thread, I have pics of the 1350B with four Luxeon M all at 1000mA, which is a rough 1:8.3 ratio of lumens to mW.

[NirvanaandTool]

Yes, that is what I am going to do. Still toying around with how I will want the heatsinks, whether one row across the center will give enough spread, or if I still want two separated heatsinks perpendicular to the front.

 

Basically just took the standard 'guidelines' and added up the numbers. If you look on my evil cluster thread, I have pics of the 1350B with four Luxeon M all at 1000mA, which is a rough 1:8.3 ratio of lumens to mW.

 

Well start messing around with it and take pics so I know what to do! I was thinking one row across the center on mine but my tank is only 18" wide not 24" like yours. After seeing what you posted about the M's, I'm thinking of doing the same - reduces the initial cost while still putting out the same amount of light. Sounds good to me.

 

Oh ok. Well still, it was pretty smart to add up the lumens for that. I'll take another look at that thread. Got plenty of time, need to save up to get all the parts for this build in addition to everything else the 90 will need. My tank builds are never cheap