PLEASE HELP! Water issues! Help!

[Fishgirl2393]

OK, so I posted in my tank thread but no one answered. I've monitored the pH for several days now (as in checked in the morning before lights on and at night just after lights off) and it has NOT been above 7.6-7.7. It dips to 7.4-7.5 at night (as checked before lights on). I added Kent Marine SuperBuffer dKH last night and tonight. I checked the pH tonight and there is little to no change (not noticeable). Any ideas about what might be causing a low pH? Can high nitrates do that (only other parameter that is out of acceptable and will be lowered via water change tomorrow)? What is the "fix" for it?

Thanks a bunch!

[dj24680]

low oxygen levels can cause low ph. do you have a cover ontop of your tank?

[ketzlerb]

Come on, you can do better.

 

[Fishgirl2393]

OK. I do have a top on the tank (plexi) but I have a skimmer and am using a powerhead with an air hose attached (blowing bubbles). It could still be oxygen though. I don't know for sure but I seem to remember that nitrate can cause it to. Is that correct? My 'trates are pretty high (50-60ppm) so just wondering. Water change tomorrow (large one). Any other suggestions (raising the O2 content or other suggestions about why the pH is low)? Thanks!

[pj86]

I would tackle the nitrates first and then see how it affect yours pH. What are you using for a nitrate exporter/remover?

[Fishgirl2393]

OK. For removal/export I'm running the skimmer and using Purigen (doesn't seem to be collecting ANYTHING because it is still WHITE even though it is a few months after I got it). Suggestions?

[seabass]

Not as much low oxygen as high CO2. Try opening a window in the room. You shouldn't have to buffer your water as long as CO2 levels are low and alkalinity is within normal ranges.

[Fishgirl2393]

Can't open window because I have indoor only cats that will try to tear through screens (all cats seem to do that!).

[Fishgirl2393]

I can't say for SURE that nitrates are causing it but a few months ago (tank has been in the same spot), the pH was right where it should be (8.2-8.3) and the nitrates were low. When the nitrates went up, the pH SEEMED to go down. However, when that happened, I was NOT testing the pH regularly so that is why I say I can't be sure.

[pj86]

I would also do Seabass suggestions. Try to change one thing at a time and keep testing. pH can change due to multiple reasons.

[seabass]

People have gone so far as running an airline from the outside into their skimmer's air intake.

 

 

 

The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 3: pH

[glennr1978]

Can't open window because I have indoor only cats that will try to tear through screens (all cats seem to do that!).

 

Put the cats in another room?

[Mstefa1]

Don't chase ph. Need to post your Alk level though.

[penfold2]

Don't chase ph. Need to post your Alk level though.

 

Agreed. Keep your alkalinity at a proper level and don't worry about pH as long as tank inhabitants look healthy. If you see problems that might be due to low pH, you could try running outdoor air to your skimmer as was mentioned, or use a CO2 scrubber on your skimmer air intake.

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/universal-air-filter.html

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-color-changing-medical-grade-co2-absorbent.html

[Mstefa1]

I don't think fishgirl has any test kits. She probably has to run to her LFS to have them test the water, then go to Mc Donalds to post her test results because she doesn't have internet. lol

[Fishgirl2393]

Well, don't have a current alk level but it has been low lately. dKH was something like 5-6 last time I checked. pH was 7.8 today (small improvement from 7.5-7.6). Doing a water change. However, I discovered that my tap water has detectable ammonia (0.25ppm). I don't think it is the source of the cyano because I've had the cyano longer than I've used tap but it is NOT good. The only reason I used tap was because I did not have any detectable nitrates or phosphates (but apparently I have ammonia) So, I got distilled (LFS closed so I couldn't get RO/DI). I do NOT have an alk test but I have ammonia, pH, nitrite, nitrate tests. The others, I do get tested at the LFS (they use Red Sea and Salifert to test). Waiting on water to heat up (distilled from walmart is COLD!) and then I'm doing a water change.

[Mstefa1]

Well, don't have a current alk level but it has been low lately. dKH was something like 5-6 last time I checked. pH was 7.8 today (small improvement from 7.5-7.6). Doing a water change. However, I discovered that my tap water has detectable ammonia (0.25ppm). I don't think it is the source of the cyano because I've had the cyano longer than I've used tap but it is NOT good. The only reason I used tap was because I did not have any detectable nitrates or phosphates (but apparently I have ammonia) So, I got distilled (LFS closed so I couldn't get RO/DI). I do NOT have an alk test but I have ammonia, pH, nitrite, nitrate tests. The others, I do get tested at the LFS (they use Red Sea and Salifert to test). Waiting on water to heat up (distilled from walmart is COLD!) and then I'm doing a water change.

 

So you use tap which is why you have a half dozen threads crying about algae. lol

 

BTW, your API master test kit always appears to show .25 ammonia level. It's not a good color result but you can compare it against another water source such as a long established tank to use as a control.

[Fishgirl2393]

Mine does not. I've tested multiple water sources with it and it always is distinguishable from 0. This was GREEN (as in LIME). My other tanks all show up as 0.

[brandon429]

Fishgirl, you should not test for pH. Its not a needed param just like ammonia testing for your tanks.

 

One full tank shot picture remember...if there is nothing wrong with your coral you do nothing to chase params. The solution to every problem on your last three threads is larger weekly water changes.

 

If you threw out your test kit for pH and never used it again your tank will benefit. Spiking alk to chase it is way more likely to cause problems. There is no possible way to accurately discern hundredths of pH measures on your API test kit, don't use it. Only the alk and calcium are roughly helpful and thats all you should test for.

[brandon429]

I wasnt being obtuse either, this is a repeat of the exact same rationale presented in the last thread which is ok to restate, it shows how you mould it into nearly all situations.

 

 

you use dosers like calcium and alk when your coral growth is commanding it. Reason #1 for full tank shot that should always be in post 1 of your threads, if you have stony corals plating over rock, pulling ions from the water, then we talk dosing. The fact you dosed first and then asked indicates second guessing and possibly impulsive initial action which we've all done. This is setting you up for failure

 

reason #2 we need a full tank shot first post is to assess your overall tank health for pH issues, real issues show in key places, a picture is more trustworthy than a test reading in your case. if your animals are healthy, any pH issues actually occuring naturally in diurnal cycles obviously arent hurting, who cares how low it gets at night, again your reading isn't even correct. not your testing personally, but those test kits wouldnt help me with my pico either its the wrong way to start the hobby for long term success.

 

The number a digital pH probe would read compared to your blue/ever so slightly bluer test tube makes your kits invalid on almost every level but I have read the alk and calcium are sufficient to guide a tank with.

 

reason #3

we can check for organic stores in the corners and in rock crevices that will show as brown pocketing and localized bacterial consumption and localized waste pocketing. If you have none, and your details look clean we can infer your system has no reason to sway pH rapidly unless undue chemistry is at work. without salifert and professional quality kits we are stabbing in the dark.

 

lastly, big water changes with a known salt mix that tests well is what you do to chase params. Any time you want a better chemistry test result, put down the doser and pick up the bucket and hose, truly thats what you should do. What salt brand do you use again, and what is your source water (ro, or ro/di, distilled) and what do you use for topoff of your tank

 

reason 4 for full tank shot is simple fish and bioload analysis. direct production of co2 via respiration, a packed fish tank certainly may have pH issues all other things considered.

 

The number one natural product to jack with your pH, if even occuring, is CO2 Id agree and an internal source is more likely. High fish bioload with low internal current and restricted surface layer of your tank>lids etc? We can look for retention from that source as well...all by a simple full tank shot.

 

Everything else for your tank is chasing rabbits. Do not rely on test kits at all, do large water changes any time you want for the first several months until you get plating corals. You must feed your tank correctly and simply change water and everything will work.

[TeflonTomDosh]

Can't open window because I have indoor only cats that will try to tear through screens (all cats seem to do that!

My cat doesn't do that. Must be you they're trying to get away from.

[Chadf]

I checked my ph once a couple years ago.

[Fishgirl2393]

I did not dose last night. Water is mixing but was really cold (has a heater in it) so I couldn't do the change last night. I know the pH is likely low because of water change needs/dirty water. Water changes are my #1 choice for fixing things in the reef tank. And now that I've tested my tap, there is NO WAY I'm going to use it again. I don't doubt that is where the nitrates are coming from (even though it doesn't show any nitrates, it does show ammonia and I wouldn't doubt if it showed nitrites too though I haven't tested) so I'm not going to use it. I have chaeto but it won't grow (even though I have nutrients), why is that? Anyone have suggestions for better nutrient export IN the tank? And my cats are like most I've met, they like to scratch anything with that texture. My cats were both raised from very young kittens and sleep with me.

[Fishgirl2393]

Changed 6 gallons of water. pH is about 7.9 and nitrates I haven't checked yet. Corals look good. I want to get my nitrates under control and then, IF that doesn't work, I'll consider ChemiClean or other measures. Just want to try to get the known causative taken care of first.

[Mstefa1]

 

Changed 6 gallons of water. pH is about 7.9 and nitrates I haven't checked yet. Corals look good. I want to get my nitrates under control and then, IF that doesn't work, I'll consider ChemiClean or other measures. Just want to try to get the known causative taken care of first.

chemiclean isn't for lowlow ph or high nitrates. So your implying after all these months u still have cyano?