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Coral Vue Hydros

Cube Stand


Passaggper

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Well, after searching high and low for a manufactured stand that suits my requirements, I came to the conclusion that building my own was the only reasonable solution. Most stands were to narrow to accommodate my 15" cube while the larger stands were just that; too large. Also, larger stands tend to be shorter and I want my stand approximately 35" tall. 28-30" is the typical manufactured stand height.

 

So, I bought a sheet of 3/4" premium grade smooth face birch laminate plywood with hardwood core for $38.00 at Menard's. First was planning, followed by rough cutting.

Stand1.jpg

 

All pieces were passed through an edge planer to ensure square joining faces. We then cut the biscuit slots.

Stand2.jpg

 

Stand3.jpg

 

Then it was time to fit it together. We did a dry fit first (thankfully) and found a few problems such as misaligned biscuit slots. Once everything was worked out and allowed for a proper fit, it was time for glue and clamps. You can't really have too many clamps can you?

Stand4.jpg

 

There is still a little bit of work to do as the stand is drying now. I haven't decided on a finish for this thing either. It will be in my dining room so it has to look nice.

 

The final dimensions will be 16"x16"x35" with a center shelf and a solid full front door.

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supermarvin76

Jealous. Wish I had gone this route instead of the Bio Cube stand, but I just don't have the time or patients.

 

Looking great so far!

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Looking good. I wish I had that ability. I'm pretty handy with building things/electrical/plumbing but my carpentry skills suck, pretty much limited to making workbenches.

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Jealous. Wish I had gone this route instead of the Bio Cube stand, but I just don't have the time or patients.

 

Looking great so far!

I'd have rather bought one but nothing really worked. Hopefully this works out. Thanks!

 

Looking good. I wish I had that ability. I'm pretty handy with building things/electrical/plumbing but my carpentry skills suck, pretty much limited to making workbenches.

 

I can work the saw but thankfully, my boss has all the skill and helped me along.

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Cool stand. I chose DIY myself for my 18" cube too. Is the back of the stand have an opening? I found it handy to have an opening back there to tuck wires/chords in.

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Cool stand. I chose DIY myself for my 18" cube too. Is the back of the stand have an opening? I found it handy to have an opening back there to tuck wires/chords in.

 

Do you mean like a hole in the back? Not yet but it will have.

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Lookin Great! :)

 

Have you thought about laminating it? If you're going to have a sump in it, it will probably get humid in there.

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Lookin Great! :)

 

Have you thought about laminating it? If you're going to have a sump in it, it will probably get humid in there.

 

Thanks!

This setup won't have a sump. I may run an ATO but it will be a small volume and will most likely have a fitted lid. I'm going to seal the whole thing to protect the wood and either stain it or paint it. I've not decided.

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Do you mean like a hole in the back? Not yet but it will have.

 

Yeah something like that. I have a section of the back open and it came in handy.

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Yeah something like that. I have a section of the back open and it came in handy.

I'd like to see that.

 

Update: I'm going to use a piece of solid surface countertop for the stand top.

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Yeah. I have my controller on that top shelf, and ALL my plugs (PH, heaters, probes, etc) are tucked in the back.I am going to eventually move my ATO setup in the cabinet as well. If I didn't have that opening it would be a HUGE mess LOL.

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I still have no idea how things will be arranged in this stand. I did get a deal on a piece of scrap solid surface cut and finished to my dimensions for 20 bucks cash. I have no clue what color it is though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A little update. I got the cabinet stained and poly'd. I installed the euro hinges last night and glued down the solid surface top this morning.

Now I just have to cut some holes in the back for wiring and such.

_DSC4723.jpg

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What's the surface made of?

 

I just re-read this thread because I was in a DIY mood and by the end of it I'm looking up local woodworkers to do it instead... :lol:

The top is "Solid surface". It's a synthetic counter-top material (very expensive) that is impermeable to water and is super flat. I'm still adding a pad because... because. I just finished cutting a hole in the back for some wiring to come into the stand. Now I need to figure out the RKL mounting location, power strip(s) location, future ATO accomodations, etc. while maintaining a clean look and not giving up too much general storage for all the bullshit. I'm really not a big fan of the surface color but oh well, I got a deal and it kind of matches the stand (it has dark brown specs in it) as it is neutral. Also, you won't see but half an inch on any side of it. The top is 16x16 like the stand and my tank is 15x15.

 

It blows my mind how many power cords are associated with the peripherals of my tank. This is getting ridiculous.

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Aunt Minnie

Wow your stand looks fantastic -- love the modern minimalist look! I'm looking to build something similar myself but unfortunately have somewhat limited woodworking skills and tools. Did you apply any sort of banding to the edges in order to cover up the inner ply layers? If so, how difficult was this and are you happy with the results? From your pics the stand looks amazing!

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Wow your stand looks fantastic -- love the modern minimalist look! I'm looking to build something similar myself but unfortunately have somewhat limited woodworking skills and tools. Did you apply any sort of banding to the edges in order to cover up the inner ply layers? If so, how difficult was this and are you happy with the results? From your pics the stand looks amazing!

Thank you for the compliments! I'm actually quite satisfied with it but I wish I had been a little pickier on the color of the solid surface top. It has dark speckles in it that match the coffee color of the stain but it's still a little too light in overall color in my opinion.

 

Yes, the stand is cut from just over a half sheet of 3/4" birch veneer plywood. I also bought real wood white birch edge banding at Lowe's that you just iron on. It's very forgiving also. You can reheat it and slide it around to get it to sit perfectly center. I then used a small block of wood to run up and down the edge with a lot of pressure to set it in place. I used a simple razor blade to trim off the edges and 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the edges and remove the excess adhesive that got squeezed out.

 

I used biscuit joinery as you can see but could just as easily used pocket screws to join everything. Thanks again for checking it out!

 

 

 

Nice job!!!!

Thank you!!

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Looks like a nice stand!

 

Someday I'll build an all plywood stand, but for the time being I typically use a frame made of dimensional lumber (1x4, 2x4, 2x2, etc...) and then skin it with plywood. I usually end up with a severely overbuilt stand that weighs a ton.

 

Honestly though with the cost of 2x4's they end up being pretty cheap too... But I really like the simplicity and potential light weight of an all plywood stand.

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Aunt Minnie

Thanks for the advice on the banding, I'll definitely be trying it. Sorry for all the random questions on your stand...I simply love the design!

 

In your thread you mentioned using "euro" style hinges. Am I right to assume this is a generic term referring to hinges which allow the door to fully overlay the sides (as mounting the door doesn't require a face frame) of the stand? If this is indeed the case, specifically what manufacturer/model hinges did you purchase? I went through Blum's (manufacturer of high-quality cabinet hinges) online catalog last night and was absolutely perplexed on what to buy...they literally offer hundreds of hinge options.

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Thanks for the advice on the banding, I'll definitely be trying it. Sorry for all the random questions on your stand...I simply love the design!

 

In your thread you mentioned using "euro" style hinges. Am I right to assume this is a generic term referring to hinges which allow the door to fully overlay the sides (as mounting the door doesn't require a face frame) of the stand? If this is indeed the case, specifically what manufacturer/model hinges did you purchase? I went through Blum's (manufacturer of high-quality cabinet hinges) online catalog last night and was absolutely perplexed on what to buy...they literally offer hundreds of hinge options.

Thank you!

Well, there are two types of euro hinges. One type allows the door edge to mount flush with the outside edge. The other type does not so the door edge will be set in approximately 3/8" (I think). I believe the later allows the door to open out farther. My door will only open about 100 degrees or so. You'll need a 1 3/8" forstner bit to mount the hinges to the door. The great thing about either type is that they are fully adjustable for door gap, height and level (wiggle room so to speak). I can't seem to find the packaging but I bought them at Lowe's.

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