Simulated Fish Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 This is how the base and top are secured, cross-bracing FTW Like I said im no master carpenter, but Id sleep better at night. Saltwater and metal don't play nice together. Look at most of the other stand builds. I know the 2x4 are plenty strong. The 2x3s would add stability ,the way that he has the 2x4s stacked per say and using L brackets,I just. Wouldn't do it that way. I did have extra support as you described in my original plan but was told by multiple people to save the wood. And no worries it's not just L brackets in there - all of the 2x4 are connected with wood screws and a bit of carpenters glue. I just wen crazy with the L brackets because....... why not? They are cheap and easy to do! Link to comment
B.C. Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 As long as your good with it . your original plan is how I would of done it. I notched my 2x4. I used wood glue as well on mine. Check it out in my 40b thread Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 As long as your good with it . your original plan is how I would of done it. I notched my 2x4. I used wood glue as well on mine. Check it out in my 40b thread That's a very clean looking stand. Looks like I needed to buy more tools for next time! Link to comment
B.C. Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Thanks, Happy Holidays and happy reefing. Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hey guys! Just a quick update. It's been slow going due to the newborn baby boy! Picked up the supplies to skin the front and build the cabinet door and trim the sides. This being my first woodworking project so I'm rather happy at how well it's coming together! Hopefully I can finish it up tomorrow because I go back to work on Saturday and would like to have it painted! Link to comment
charnelhouse Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Why would you do that? The single 2x4s are strong enough. The brackets help hold them there, in addition to screws from wood-to-wood. Finally, the skinning helps too. The screws from wood to wood are crucial here. From the pics I looked at I saw brackets only. I would not rely on that to hold. HHS, if you don't have screws running direct from lumber to lumber, you should get some longish (maybe 2.5-3") wood or drywall screws and get some direct connections from 2x4 to 2x4. Relying on those angle brackets and the skin screws isn't as structurally sound as tying the frame together directly. Edit: Not that what you have won't hold... It's better than the stock stand for sure, which is what I have under my Fusion 40. But if I were going to build my own, I would wan't it to be rock solid (unlike the stock stand). Link to comment
najluni15 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 You could lose the brackets and just use screws but the if you have brackets you might as well use them. They will help keep your angles. Remember, 2x4 are extremely strong. Your stand is serious overkill but that's a good thing. Many stands are made out of particle board or plywood. Good job it looks nice. Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 The screws from wood to wood are crucial here. From the pics I looked at I saw brackets only. I would not rely on that to hold. HHS, if you don't have screws running direct from lumber to lumber, you should get some longish (maybe 2.5-3") wood or drywall screws and get some direct connections from 2x4 to 2x4. Relying on those angle brackets and the skin screws isn't as structurally sound as tying the frame together directly. Edit: Not that what you have won't hold... It's better than the stock stand for sure, which is what I have under my Fusion 40. But if I were going to build my own, I would wan't it to be rock solid (unlike the stock stand). I used #8 3" wood screws to connect all of the 2x4's. The skin is attached with #8 1.25" at 3 to 6 points along each edge. The brackets were more to help make sure I held 90° angles but also to reduce flexing and help add shear strength. Do I want to and more screws? Yes, ALWAYS! Ha-ha I am overly cautious and keep making sure it doesn't flex and holds weight. Everyone tells me it's over kill and will work fine, especially compared to the stock press board. I am confident it will hold strong! I would be lieing if I didn't say a small part of me worries it's not enough, even if it was made of steel plate I would worry! You could lose the brackets and just use screws but the if you have brackets you might as well use them. They will help keep your angles. Remember, 2x4 are extremely strong. Your stand is serious overkill but that's a good thing. Many stands are made out of particle board or plywood. Good job it looks nice. Thank you :thumbup: thats exactly why i used the l brackets. And hey I always appreciate a little praise! Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Quick update I got the door finished and gotdown to painting! I landed on a flat black which turns out to be a very very dark navy in the light TBH I like the color. Note: I touched up after these were taken. I really like the rustic esc look with one coat, but I may do another. Once the paint is dried up I'll put the door back on and upload the end result. Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Done! Stand is in place and ready to go! I put the sand in to make it feel more compete! Thanks for all the input guys, I'd be lost without this forum. Link to comment
Mojado Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Damn, that's a good looking stand. Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Damn, that's a good looking stand. Thank you! It took a lot of time and effort but was well worth it. Link to comment
charnelhouse Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 For sure a nice stand! On another note, I don't know if you saw erinwillet's thread the other day about chipping the corner of her JBJ RL45 with the glass lid, but you should ditch those glass lids and build a mesh lid. BRS has nice kits. Check out Harry's build thread for his version. Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 For sure a nice stand! On another note, I don't know if you saw erinwillet's thread the other day about chipping the corner of her JBJ RL45 with the glass lid, but you should ditch those glass lids and build a mesh lid. BRS has nice kits. Check out Harry's build thread for his version. Me and smiz are in talks Link to comment
MrZ2u Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 so I know you are done and all but still, future advice and advice to those reading/thinking of plans themselves. I am very handy with woodworking. Couple things I would throw in here. Why not pressure treated pine? Three reasons. First, you don't need it unless its going to be exposed to rain outdoors. Reason enough right there. The chemicals as was mentioned...I mean they are no big deal but why bring them in if you don't need to right? Lastly, and really this is the biggest one. Pine is not a very stable wood in general...pressure treated pine is terrible. As it drys it can and often will shrink, twist and/or warp. Those are NOT desired traits in what needs to be perfectly square construction. Fir is better which I think you chose but still it can warp. No big deal in home construction, your house moves a lot and nothing is as square as you think nor does it need to be. If you want to use pine/fir and are buying at HD/Lowes...get the first grade select lumber. "Cabinet Grade" its sometimes called. "Screw and Glue" never forget the glue. Properly glued joints are in most cases stronger than the wood grain itself. Exceptions are the really oily wood and the incredibly strong woods. Pine is neither. You will likely break pine but not the glue joint. Plain old red label TiteBond will do you fine. I use gallons of that stuff. Predrill you holes for the screws and use good heavy screws. Avoid those metal brackets...they are not really very structural in most cases.Lastly, I would incorporate some 2x4 in the design too just cause I like to over engineer things as well. That said, technically you could build this whole thing from JUST 3/4 in plywood and it would support the weight no problem...your dimensions and the weight they needed to support are not nearly as demanding as it might seem. Look at the stands in a petco/petsmart sometime. Bigger volume tanks than yours and the stands are made from particleboard. Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 so I know you are done and all but still, future advice and advice to those reading/thinking of plans themselves. I am very handy with woodworking. Couple things I would throw in here. Why not pressure treated pine? Three reasons. First, you don't need it unless its going to be exposed to rain outdoors. Reason enough right there. The chemicals as was mentioned...I mean they are no big deal but why bring them in if you don't need to right? Lastly, and really this is the biggest one. Pine is not a very stable wood in general...pressure treated pine is terrible. As it drys it can and often will shrink, twist and/or warp. Those are NOT desired traits in what needs to be perfectly square construction. Fir is better which I think you chose but still it can warp. No big deal in home construction, your house moves a lot and nothing is as square as you think nor does it need to be. If you want to use pine/fir and are buying at HD/Lowes...get the first grade select lumber. "Cabinet Grade" its sometimes called. "Screw and Glue" never forget the glue. Properly glued joints are in most cases stronger than the wood grain itself. Exceptions are the really oily wood and the incredibly strong woods. Pine is neither. You will likely break pine but not the glue joint. Plain old red label TiteBond will do you fine. I use gallons of that stuff. Predrill you holes for the screws and use good heavy screws. Avoid those metal brackets...they are not really very structural in most cases. Lastly, I would incorporate some 2x4 in the design too just cause I like to over engineer things as well. That said, technically you could build this whole thing from JUST 3/4 in plywood and it would support the weight no problem...your dimensions and the weight they needed to support are not nearly as demanding as it might seem. Look at the stands in a petco/petsmart sometime. Bigger volume tanks than yours and the stands are made from particleboard. Good for people in the future. Definitely always pre-drill and glue! I wouldn't do it any other way. 2x4 may be over kill, but I'm tired of cheep wood press board that melts away and chips. Popular would be a good choice for a non 2x4 option. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Me and smiz are in talks Let me know when you get one from Smiz Link to comment
Simulated Fish Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Let me know when you get one from Smiz Yeah I was hopping you had gotten one harry! I'll play the guinea pig Link to comment
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