Von's glass drilling extravaganza

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...20&pagenumber=2

*Disclaimer, I hold no responsibility for cracked tanks, injury, or loss of life. I’m just simply sharing something I stumbled upon*

“I stumbled upon” what I see as a great, cheap, fast way to cut glass.

Tools:

-Electrical hand drill/drill press

-Craftsman “cut-all” rotary tool 5 AMP, ¾ HP. (looks like a Roto-zip knock-off)

Ran @ 20,000 RPM. Any similar tool should work, this one happened to be on sale with a bunch of attachments @ Sears.

-1/8” collet for the ______ rotary tool

-Black and Decker 1/8” “glass & tile Drill bit” $4.97

-Superior Built “Rod Saw TILE BLADE’ - 10” tungsten carbide saw blade (actually made to fit a hacksaw, found in tile section of HD) *this item is not made for cutting glass, but works perfectly as you will see* $3.97

Total= cheap (If you already own a rotary tool)

Preparation:

Make sure the glass surface is clean then make a cutting template by tracing the outline of your circle on tape. Place the tape on your tank on the location of where you want your hole to be. I used some clay around the cutting area to create a reservoir that I filled with water.

Pilot hole: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

I decided to use the drill press instead of a hand drill. Make sure the reservoir is filled with water. Align the drill over a point where you’d like to begin. Start drilling, slowly. Stop periodically to make sure there is water going in the hole, if there isn’t add more water. You’ll know you have broken through the glass when you see water dripping out the bottom of it.

Check out the reservior

Getting ready to cut the circle: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

I decided to use the flexible shaft attachment, so I could have more control over what I was doing. Take the Tile saw blade and clip it into a 1 ½ in. piece (I used pliers to do this). Place it in the collet. Tighten the collet. *This will more than likely damage the inside of the collet, so buy a spare one, they aren’t expensive and you can use it just for these blades*

At this point, your template on the glass is probably wasted, so dry the glass make a new template and place it on there. Refill the reservoir with water.

Close up of the tool.

Cutting the circle: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

DO NOT START THE BLADE OUTSIDE OF THE PILOT HOLE.

Before starting, insert the blade into the pilot hole. Hold the tool as steady as you can and turn it on. Begin cutting following the template. Find out what method works best, try holding the tool at different angles. I found that dipping the blade up and down as I was cutting worked best. Add water to reservoir periodically while cutting. If the blade starts wobbling, stop cutting and tighten the blade.

Finishing the circle: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES

When you reach about half an inch from completing you circle, likely the glass will finish it for you by breaking off cleanly, that’s what happened to me. It’s kind of scary, but not a big deal. If you find any imperfections that you want to go over, you can use the tool and grind away at it. When you are satisfied, simply clean off the area and plumb your bulkhead through.

End notes:

I used this on my 10 gal AGA. I finished my circles in a matter of a few minutes. These blades put on rotary tools really worked great. I have no experience using this method on different types of glass, you be the judge if it is something you want to try out, but I hold no guarantees. To be safe, I would change a blade per circle. Maybe try practicing on a cheap 10 dollar 10 gallon.

The 2 magic parts, total $8.94+tax

I can’t emphasize enough, wear safety glasses, I don’t want some moron posting here about how he now only has one eye because he didn’t wear safety glasses/goggles, whatever.

thanks for the blow by blow. i'm going to be also drilling soon. hey, would you recommend wearing safety glasses? 8)

you can also purchasse diamond bits for a rotary/roto zip pretty cheap. i paid $7 for 20 bits and drilled 2 holes in a 20 1 in a 15 and 6 in a 135 gal. take your time and hey...wear safety glasses!

good idea on the tile saw blade. ive got a dozen laying around and never even thunk of it!

Hi Von Digity,

Nice work! I found a guy here in town that will drill holes in my tanks for $30 per hole. I guess your way would be cheaper in the long run (if I had several holes to drill) but there's a lot of work involved, and some risk. Do you think it's worth it? Just a question of opinion really...

Thanks!

Wolf

RobinsonFam,

Where did you purchase your glass cutting roto zip bits?

I just drilled a hole today for a 1" bulkhead using this method with a dremel. It worked fine.

What I aslo did as well was drill some overflow teeth in my 20gal. This time I stepped up to my roto zip and boy what a difference. Unfortunately it worked so well it took the diamond coating off of my 7103 ball pointed hole bit.

Thanks for the info

I used my Dremel and a diamond bit to do the holes in a 10 gallon - worked like an absolute wonder.

One modification I would suggest to anyone who's doing this on a non-running tank (check out those nuts on reefcentreal - one guy posted a great DIY when he was cutting a hole for a bulkhead fitting and his clowns were watching): take it outside.

I plunked my 10 in the back yard and worked on it while letting the garden hose run freely over the cut site. The tool didn't get warm, thus the bit was in great shape. The biggest danger in cutting glass is heat which will destroy your bits.

Von had a water reservoir for his - that's great too.

I'm scared.

Wolf, don't be scared. I suggest going to HD buying a couple pieces or dig through a glass shop's dumpster and trying it out on some scrap. Also check out petco for a 10 gal (around 10 bucks), that will give you 5 sides to practice on.

BTW 7 bucks for 20 bits is really cheap. But I found this tile saw blade cuts through glass like butter and lasts pretty well.

good post von. i would recomed to anyone who does this with just the roto tool that you put the depth setting attachment on you tool. if you don't when you drill you piliot hole you can crak you glass and the dremel smaks the glass after it breaks thought. (trust me i've done it twice.)

Okay, my LFS let me down, I've worked up a little nerve, got all of the supplies, and I'm ready to start drilling. Just one question before I start.

On a standard 10 AGA, how far from the sides would you recommend putting the hole? I'd like to put it in the bottom corner, which looks about the same place you've put yours. And for a 10 gal, it should be a 1" hole, right? Just want to make sure. Hopefully, my "practice" tank will turn out okay and I won't waste $9!

Thanks!

Wolf

I just drilled my 10 the other day. Just put your plumbing where you want and dirll away.

A 1" hole seems pretty large, but whatever works for you. I am using 3/4" drain and a 1/2" return.

I put a paydough dam around the outside, filled with water occasionally and drilled away. I was supprised how easy it was. My only tip is to move the bit up and down while you do it.

My only other tip is to make a template from paper. Cut the hole and make sure it is big enough for your fitting to get through. Use that to draw the hole on your tank.

It really is not a big deal.

Carl

Originally posted by Wolf

On a standard 10 AGA, how far from the sides would you recommend putting the hole?  I'd like to put it in the bottom corner, which looks about the same place you've put yours.  And for a 10 gal, it should be a 1" hole, right?  Just want to make sure.  Hopefully, my "practice" tank will turn out okay and I won't waste $9!

 

Thanks!

Wolf

I actually had some problems with this. My 2nd hole ended up a little too close to the side. When I was installing my plumbing, I was in an akward angle, and actually cracked the bottome pane of the tank due to this. You may want to give at least an inch, or just be very, very, very careful.

This thread is really coming in handy...I'm gearing up to drill my 15H (2" bulkhead in bottom for standpipe, 2X1" returns in the back) and this thread is absolutely perfect! Thanks for all this info, Von.

Cheers,

Fred

i like your new pendant von!

ok- i used a standard drill with a diamond dremmel crematic bit- and it took about 30-45 mins of active drill spinning time- not sure what speed it was..... any ideas?? should i up to a dremmel?

Most drills don't have the rpm's that the dremmels or rotozips do....that could have been the cause of the 30 minute hole. Just my thoughts...

-Fred

yea- i don't want to sink another ... $50 in to my hobby =Þ

Okay, 3/4" sounds better. The drain hole that a LFS drilled for me, which was on the lower back part of the tank because they said they're usually unsuccessful when they try to drill the bottoms, was a 1" and the bulkhead is huge! My overflow will end up taking up 1/4th of the tank! It kind of defeats the purpose of using a sump to get the equipment out of the display.

Anyway, here's a really stupid question that anyone should be able to answer. I did the "Home Depot stare" yesterday for about an hour and couldn't find anything that resembled a bulkhead. Is that something that only fish stores carry?

1" bulkheads i think are much better than the smaller ones... 3/4 jsut does not have enough flow for all but the smallest tanks-

yea. a small space issue- but definatly better to have too much draining than an overflow of your tank on the floor

Wolf, check this out : http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...ht=diy+bulkhead

*edit* woops wrong link. Isn't there a thread on this site about diy bulkheads from home depot?

Matt, I have much props to give to you for using a standard drill. That is intense. I understand you not wanting to spend another 50 bucks, so all I can say is that if it works, then it works. I've seen threads on reefcentral about people taking 30-40 minutes drilling holes with dremels. Anyways, the thing I kinda left out on this thread about using a roto tool and the tile saw blade is that it took me a total of like 1-2 minutes to cut my holes. Just something to think about, I guess.

I didn't realize they were so cheap. I just checked out marinedepot.com and they're only 5-7 bucks. A LFS here was trying to charge me $22, and it just seemed like something that could be purchased at a hardware store. Anyway, that's sort of off-topic.

This is in fact, an awesome post and I will be drilling a tank maybe today or tomorrow. We're doing a little remodeling around the house so I have to pretend like I'm more interested in that right now. I will say however, that if I can do this, ANYONE can. I'll post my results shortly.

Thank you Von digity. You rock.

Hardware store or a POOL SUPPLY STORE!! (I work in the swimming pool biz...we actually have a return fitting bulkhead that I'm thinking about putting on my 15H, they're 1 1/2" return fittings with a little ocellating "eye" inside so that you can direct the flow). We've got bulkheads all over the place here..and getting them at cost is nice...

Just some info,

Fred

von- the really sick part is... as i was moving the tank in my room for instalation... it hit the door and cracked.. i went and bought a rubber maid tub for my fuge out of frustration....

but hoping to drill again...

how much did that roto tool cost you? and it is standalone? or does it conect to something else?

Great, I'm glad people are finding this helpful.

Matt, that truly sucks. I got my tool as a gift from my dad http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00917254000 <--This is the tool by itself, but it came as a kit with a carrying case and a whole lot of gizmos. He said it was like 110 at Sears. The main thing about it is that its a kit, and came with the flex shaft. The flex shaft is really the best part of it. I find all the other gizmos and attachments useless, especially since I already own a router.

This tool is more powerful than a dremel. I think its similar to a rotozip ( I just got a rotozip too). But I really think that as long as it has a flex shaft, your good to go. It makes like much easier.

HTH.

you saw my ghett0 fuge pics, right? lol

anyways- i am talking about drilling my 55 gallon rather than siphon overflowing it.... hmmm