Xytrix01 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I know that this has been done before, I just thought that I'd share my DIY attempts to further illustrate the process... First off, The first time I tried this, I bought a regent 500w flood from home depot. I found out that the reflector in my particular model was designed to throw light forward, and not down... That didn't work Went to OSH between classes and picked up this for $12.99 Here is the fixture as it comes from the box... My cat Lilyana inspecting the project: First step is to open up the junction box on the back for some rewiring. This lamp originally had a low and a high setting...Notice the DPST push-button switch with the resistor in line with the hot lead(the big black lump under the heat shrink) The switch was only rated up to 250v and goodness knows what would happen to that resistor if exposed to the starting voltages of a halide... Best to just remove both doubtful components... ...and join the two wires directly. I drilled a few vent holes in the top and rear of the fixture so that as hot air rises out the top holes, cooler air should be drawn in the bottom holes, cooling the fixture somewhat. I know that these are meant to handle high heat from the halogens, but i don't know if they were meant to sustain it for 12 hours solid... better to run the bulb a little cooler anyway right? Link to comment
Xytrix01 Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Next up we open the fixture and remove the halogen bulb from the lamp. I bought the Ushio 70w 14K de HQI bulb. The 70W HQI halide bulbs are the exact same length as the 500w halogens, so it is as easy as just snapping the bulb into place. With some fixtures you may have to trim the ceramic end caps to get the bulb to fit. This fixture required only minor trimming of one end cap. All buttoned up As for the wiring, the fixture came with 18gauge wire preinstalled, so I decided to just use that cord, and the female end of an extension cord to make a "quick disconnect" if I ever have to separate the pendant from the ballast for some reason. With the ballast in view. I'm going to get a metal project box to enclose the ballast and probably put a cooling fan in it to keep the ballast cool. Time to fire it up! I havn't worked out the suspension system as of yet, but here's a shot of the light set on top of my tank. When I hang it, it will sit about 6" above the tank and give a much better spread. That's it!!!! Hope you enjoyed the pics. Feel free to ask any questions and I'll try to answer. Link to comment
NanoReefer411 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Hi, I've read where it's a fire hazard to use those lights with aquariums and that it doesn't give the same benefits as other fixtures. Maybe these people were feeding me crap, but can you really use those lights like that? Link to comment
wav3form Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Hi,I've read where it's a fire hazard to use those lights with aquariums and that it doesn't give the same benefits as other fixtures. Maybe these people were feeding me crap, but can you really use those lights like that? What's a fire hazard? All you're doing is gutting out the fixture and retrofitting it to run a mh bulb. It's ceramic and metal, you're not going to start any fires. Link to comment
Abysswater Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 What's a fire hazard? All you're doing is gutting out the fixture and retrofitting it to run a mh bulb. It's ceramic and metal, you're not going to start any fires. is that bulb 70 or 150??? Never mind I read your subject line. Duh! Cool, does it cover more of your tank if pull up away from top edge of AQ?? Link to comment
Xytrix01 Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 yeah it does, if I raise it to about 6" it covers the whole tak... I'm working on a motorized suspension system so I can raise and lower the lights as I please with the touch of a button...Muahhhahahhahha ... and yes I am a dork! Link to comment
I Take Pictures Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Is the glass that it came w/ already UV flitered? Maybe I missed that somewhere? Link to comment
ReefApprentice Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 It is UV filtered. Link to comment
wav3form Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 It is UV filtered. The diy fixtures work great. I did the regent setup with a 70w MH bulb and ballast for my 10 gallon. I'm retrofitting it into a 20L canopy with PC and Actinics for supplement lightning so I don't have to upgrade to a higher watt mh. Link to comment
I Take Pictures Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 OK so Im guessing that it is UV filtered even thought it doesnt point it out anywhere? W/ the reagent I just bought it does not specify that it is UV filtered anywhere. Sorry if its a dumd question but Id rather find out now then when Im staring at a bunch of dead corals. Link to comment
brent-konieczny Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Yes it is UV Filtered. There is glass in front of the bulb (that is your standard UV protection. About the fire hazard, it is safe as any Halide Fixture you will buy (O-Rings on the wiring section as well as the glass in front). It is actually much safer to run a 70watt halide in there than a 500watt halogen, much less heat=common sense). Link to comment
Xytrix01 Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 Still haven't hung the pendant. grumble grumble Anyways, I'll post pix when I hang it up, school and work are just getting in the way right now! Link to comment
Xytrix01 Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 Ok, I couldn't stand to have the thing sit on the bench anymore. what to do? what to do? I got it! Time to bust out the gheto engenering! and yes, they are empty... Here's the light spread that it puts out at that hight: Link to comment
chrisstankevitz Posted October 7, 2006 Share Posted October 7, 2006 which ballast did you use? Where did you get it? Thanks, Chris Link to comment
yomamaphat Posted October 7, 2006 Share Posted October 7, 2006 Hey, looking spiffy. The auto-light-elevator sounds mighty futuristic... you watch star-trek? How much did this setup cost? I see the fixture is dirt cheap, how much is the ballast? I guess that's about the only other part you bought, besides the bulb and whatever it took to wire the sucker. The cans don't look too bad, just don't let your cat walk on your tank and knock it over! Link to comment
chrisstankevitz Posted October 7, 2006 Share Posted October 7, 2006 How much did this setup cost? I see the fixture is dirt cheap, how much is the ballast? Also, how much were the four cans of soda? Link to comment
yomamaphat Posted October 7, 2006 Share Posted October 7, 2006 Also, how much were the four cans of soda? And what kind of soda is that? I might have to try that Link to comment
Xytrix01 Posted October 7, 2006 Author Share Posted October 7, 2006 The ballast is made by Advance(d?) transformers.... I got it on ebay for like $37 shipped. The bulb cost me $67 and the fixture was $12 at orchard supply. I had the wirenuts laying around... The soda turns out to be like 25 cents a can, so add a dollar to the cost, and as for what kind, it's just Safeway brand cola, but they have redone their labels. Link to comment
zzpw3x Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Do you have a part number for the ballast, or will any 70W MH ballast work? Link to comment
I Take Pictures Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Do you have a part number for the ballast, or will any 70W MH ballast work? Any 70W MH ballast will work. Link to comment
chrisstankevitz Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Any 70W MH ballast will work. Doesn't it have to be "HQI"? Link to comment
Zo0k365 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Would this work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270387221698 Link to comment
BlueAbyss Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Doesn't it have to be "HQI"? That depends on the bulb you intend on using. If the ballast is an HQI ballast, it must run HQI bulbs that match the code on the ballast. See below for more... Would this work?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270387221698 This ballast, ANSI code M98, is a pulse start ballast. It must be used with 70W pulse start bulbs, ANSI code M98 also. So, you see the correlation between the ballast and bulb. However, just note that many electronic ballasts will run nearly any bulb at the rated wattage of the ballast, whether they be HQI (which actually refers to the metal and gas combination in the bulb, and I believe these bulbs are always double ended), pulse, or probe start (which tend to be single ended, Mogul based bulbs). Check with the manufacturer to be sure. Link to comment
AndersNT Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Hi. Im new to this board, so guess this will be my first post I know it's an old topic, but I need some advice to a DIY MH pendant My inspiration is this topic and this: http://www.nano-reef.com/featured/?tank=22 I sure would like help to chose the ballast. I did a search on ebay, but I cant find the one I am looking for. Do you guys think it is safe - and possible to build a pendant like the one Karlo did following your guide? Regards. Bonus question: Is 70W enough to a 16 gal nano? Link to comment
doug105 Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Here's a ballast that will work here! DougN Link to comment
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