Slightly modded NC12DX

[jcreefer]

I figure I should chronicle my NC12 after being inspired by everyone's DIY projects.

 

My intention is to have a clean looking NC12, self sufficient aquarium. Although like alot of things in life, it starts to snowball into something bigger. I have the back drilled for a CLS and will be incorporating the small Aquafuge as the filtration system.

 

Here is the plan:

Lighting:

70W MH 10000k

stock NC12 DX PC lighting

2 small fans (possibly more if heat is an issue)

 

Filtration:

Aquafuge

CLS with Quietone 1200 with SCWD

 

Here are some pics:

 

 

 

 

 

I'll try to keep an update of this ongoing project (since Dec)

 

-Jeff

[EmasCterE]

I"d be interested in how you got the SCWD to fit in there. I have a SCWD sitting around and it'd be nice to incorporate it into the tank.

[jcreefer]

Here you go (pics are large)

 

 

 

 

I need to relocate the return pump somewhere else so I can hang the Aquafuge on the back of the tank.

 

-Jeff

[jss8422]

Wow your title is misleading. This tank, I believe, will hardly be "usual."

[EmasCterE]

I think you'd be fine without the aquafuge. With the amount of space you have in the tank, I believe it is possible to do fine with all your biological filtration done with live rock.

 

Quick question: how did you drill your NC? I have a aquapod and I was under the impression that these things crack WAY too easily.

[jcreefer]

I think you'd be fine without the aquafuge. With the amount of space you have in the tank, I believe it is possible to do fine with all your biological filtration done with live rock.

 

Quick question: how did you drill your NC? I have a aquapod and I was under the impression that these things crack WAY too easily.

 

 

My original plan was to use a spare AC50 as my refugium, but a good deal came up on the Aquafuge that I couldn't pass up. I wanted to have to "extra" volume of water. I just didn't anticipate the piping constraint issue. I will be relocating the SCWD lower so the Aquafuge can sit pretty flush against the back wall.

 

As far as drilling goes, I just went really really slow with my diamond bit on the Dremel. It took me almost a week to drill those three holes I do have my doubts about the stress the glass would be under with the wall drilled, but only time will tell. This is my second NC, my first being the OG NC12 and I didn't have any issues with that one, so I'm counting my blessings.

 

-Jeff

[jcreefer]

Here is an update of my NC12DX. I finally caved in and broke down my 50 gal. Time as well as temperature was not on my side. With ambient temp slowly rising, and with no room to put a chiller, I decided it was time to break it down for the livestock's sake.

 

I transfer most of the corals over into the modded nanocube. It's been over two days, and so far the coras are doing okay.

 

Here are the mods as it stand currently:

 

All mods mentioned above

Chemipure in the overflow

CSL

Getto rigged light stand for the 70W MH 10K astrolux

temp: 79-81 degrees

All parameters check out

 

Here are the pics:

 

FTS, some corals are still getting acclimated

 

The inside glass was a bit cloudy due to the dust up from the sand, sorry.

 

Some of the zoos that I've slowly accumulated over the past year or so.

 

The SPS were under the 250W 14K DE, hopefully they'll survive under the 70W 10K until I can get the PC supplements. I'm suppose to be getting a Gecko hood from someone, but the person's been really lagging, and I'm not sure if I'll ever be getting it

 

I also have a home made ATO that will top off with kalk. I just need to figure out how to mount the float switch. The temp is holding relatively stable, it gets up to 82 degrees during the heat of the day, but once i get home I start the floor fan to cool it off. At night it gets down to 78-79 which is more to my liking.

 

As far as the aquafuge goes, I haven't put it on yet because I'm still in the planning stage of the stand. Once I have the stand made, the fuge will be "hang on back", so to speak. As it doesn't really hang at all, but rather sits behind the main tank.

 

-Jeff

[10" Red Devil]

Wait a second you moved everything from the 50 gallon into this nano-cube because of temp problems?!?! The 50 would 5 tiimes more stable then the Nano-cube for temp stability!! Your going to have a lot harder time keeping this nano-cube temp more stable.

 

Sorry not trying to give you a hard time, but I miss the logic behind this move.

 

Thanks.

[jcreefer]

Wait a second you moved everything from the 50 gallon into this nano-cube because of temp problems?!?! The 50 would 5 tiimes more stable then the Nano-cube for temp stability!! Your going to have a lot harder time keeping this nano-cube temp more stable.

 

Sorry not trying to give you a hard time, but I miss the logic behind this move.

 

Thanks.

 

 

Haha, no I knew someone was going to ask that question. In truth, the 50gal sits in the house where afternoon blistering sun shines on it through two large sky lights, for the better part of 3 hours. The placement of the aquarium was a miscalculation on my part since we just bought the place and didn't realize the track of the sun. On top of that, there was the blaring heat of the 250W MH. With winter temp running at about 78-79 degrees, I knew keeping the temp of the tank at the same ballpark during the summer time was going to be tough. And we're just barely getting through spring!!!

 

The second reason, and the more important one was that me and my wife will be expecting our first child at the end of the year, and I knew I couldn't dedicate the same amount of energy and time to the hobby. I brought up the idea to break down the tank and downsize. My wife, to my surprise tried to convince me to keep it and even offered to buy a chiller for me. Ultimately I knew I couldn't keep up with a newborn and a such large tank at the same time, and broke it down.

 

You're absolutely correct in stating that the larger tank offers more stability. But this is the first time I've had the NC. This is the very same NC that I started my SW hobby 2.5 years ago. So most of the things were originally in the NC12 at one time or another. They've made a full circle, so to speak. I was very hands off back then with the NC12, hands off with the 50gal, and I will apply the same maintainance routine to the new setup. Hands off by no means negelecting it. I just simply do my weekly water change with premixed salt (with my RO), and ATO with kalk, and occasionally add DT's and oyster eggs.

 

 

Oh yeah, I forgot to explain my temp stabilization plan. Due to space restriction, I couldn't purchase a chiller for the 50 gal. Now with the NC 12, it is running open top, and with a fan blasting across the water surface, the temp stabilizes at around 80 degrees. I have a ATO to top off the evap. and I don't mind having to reload a 2L bottle every other day.

 

If and when the JBJ chiller comes out, I will consider getting that, but in the mean time I think my choice of switching back to the NC12 is paying off.

 

This is still going to be tough, but hopefully it will sustain if not thrive in the smaller tank.

-Jeff

[10" Red Devil]

Well I think you have a great plan. You may want to use your heater from the 50 gallon as the fan on the water trick is really efficient! Almost too much so! I use a 250 watt titanium heater on my 20 gallon system volume tank and when I had my fans on it is the only size that was able to keep up with the cooling.

 

I wish you the best of luck!

 

The sps look awesome in the nano-cube!

[jcreefer]

Here are some updated pics:

 

I added a pair of black ocellaris

 

I finally got my Gecko hood and retrofitted the 70W + 2x28 actinics. With all the lights on (on a dusk-dawn Coralife timer), you can't really see the actinics, but I can see the corals are responding postively. If someone can tell me how to take better pics with the actinics on, please enlighten me.

 

-Jeff