tylernt Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 Here is a collection of ATO (Automatic Top-Off) technologies. I'm creating this mainly so I can send people here when they ask questions about ATO, but comments are still welcome. I will edit this post periodically as new methods or new variations on existing methods become feasible. The following are my opinions, and are worth exactly what you paid for them. Some will disagree but you can at least get an overview of the available ATO options. ~Commercial products: http://www.autotopoff.com/products.html http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_ato.html =-infoxunter036]http://www.tunze.com/117.html?&L=1&C=US&us...=-infoxunter036 http://www.ultralife.com/float.htm ~Gravity, IV or other Drip + No electricity + No float switches or valves prone to failure - If your evaporation rate changes, your topoff does not - Must place resevoir above tank or sump (no link) ~Gravity, Vacuum + No electricity + No float switches or valves prone to failure - Must place FW resevoir above tank or sump - Need airtight, rigid container for FW resevior http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=65554 ~Gravity, float valve + No electricity - Must place FW resevoir above tank or sump (no link) ~Pump-driven float valve: + Float valve is "probably" more reliable than electric float switch http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=654436 ~Battery-powered air-driven float switch: + No dangerous voltages - Must replace batteries once in a long while - Need airtight, rigid container for FW resevior http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=29093 ~Air-driven float switch: - Need airtight, rigid container for FW resevior http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=21786 ~Powerhead-driven float switch: - Must use 12VDC relay to avoid switch failure http://www.californiareefs.com/forsale.htm ~Aqualifter-driven float switch: + Seems like the best one to me. Just IMHO http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=53133 Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 Another good commercial one for those wo want to spend a good $160 is the TUNZE osmolator. Many of my friends swear by it. I use an ultralife float switch myself ($59). It seems many people report problems with these...but mine works great...going on 18 months. I also ask the untralife "haters" if their ultralife's were kept dry or exposed to water. More often than not they were exposed to water...saltwater...and that would be a contributing factor in my book. Mine is kept in an airtight conatiner with wires running out...seems to be key. Link to comment
reef n ale Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 Nice post tyler! Rob Link to comment
Reefer Addict Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 Originally posted by Undertheradar Another good commercial one for those wo want to spend a good $160 is the TUNZE osmolator. Many of my friends swear by it. I also swear by it. I have a Tunze Osmolator in both the 'Crack' and 'Ganja' tank.. Link to comment
tylernt Posted September 12, 2005 Author Share Posted September 12, 2005 Thanks for the feedback all. Added the Tunze and the Ultralife. Link to comment
Daemonfly Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 I've used floatswitches with 12v automotive windshield washer pumps. Works great as these little pumps sure have a lot of power (8ft head on one I tested). The only problem I found (catastrophically) is that they draw a good ammount of current and will weld your floatswitch contacts together if you don't use a relay. Link to comment
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