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Graduated LED color on tall tank


Mr. Microscope

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Mr. Microscope

So, I'm imagining a tall tank. The LEDs would be composed of high powered (3+ watt) blues (probably with lenses) and lower powered whites (1 watt?). Would it be possible to get a graduated look where its somewhat of a daylight color on top and more actinic as you get towards the bottom? I'm wondering how tall the tank would have to be to make this work right.

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igotreefermadness

Sweet idea! Kind of a "deep sea" look. I think you are on the right track with the high powered blue and lower powered whites. I would say you need to look at PAR readouts on different tanks and see what kind of light penetration you're white led will be emitting vs. the blue one.

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Hhmmm nice thinking micro...I'm sure it could work but you would need to figure out 1) the PAR likewhat was stated above 2) lens optics 3) have hard the LEDs would be driven...or wattage...I think personally it's a very cool idea props

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You could replicate this by using more blues, and tighter optics, and higher drive currents on the blues.

 

Run the whites with no optics, at a lower drive current.

 

Honestly the price of most 1-watt white LEDs' I've seen is only a buck less than the 3w versions.

 

By the way, stick with the 120-degree output white LEDs like XPG and Rebel. An XRE might be cheaper but comes with a 90-degree output that will work against you.

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Mr. Microscope

Of course, pillared rockwork would be necessary to really get the full effect. Maybe some spotlighting would work better for the effect I'm thinking of.

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yep exactly like that!

 

but seriously pillars are awesome you should do it! i'll post pics once i get my kit in. i was planing on running 60° optics on 12 RB and no optics on 6 neutral white and 6 cool white xp-g's next time i can afford to drop 12 more blue xr-e its on 1:1:.5:.5 lol yeah but i'm not running a deep tank just a 40 breeder. i plan on going for the ai sol super blue look by the time i'm done except i'm adding the NW for some slight reds

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Milad LEDGroupBuy.com

I havent done this before but would think you would need to do the following:

 

CREE XP-G or XM-L CW no optics (run them at lower currents)

CREE XP-E RB with very tight optics around 10-20 degrees

 

The optics are going to penetrate the water while the whites will just cover the top end of the tank. I would think the tank has to be something like 48inches deep before you start seeing the full effect.

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ive had this thought before, one thing that i figured is that there has to be a surface for you to see the color temp as it is less apparent through water than it is hitting rock..if your rock work doesnt suit it, you might just end up with white rock on top and shadows lower..so blues in the front and whites in the back i guess..this could be easier to do side by side, say a 48 inch long tank (i know a bit big for you) but the mix gradually tapers off in either direction..the effect could be more apparent if you use warmer whites

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Mr. Microscope
ive had this thought before, one thing that i figured is that there has to be a surface for you to see the color temp as it is less apparent through water than it is hitting rock..if your rock work doesnt suit it, you might just end up with white rock on top and shadows lower..so blues in the front and whites in the back i guess..this could be easier to do side by side, say a 48 inch long tank (i know a bit big for you) but the mix gradually tapers off in either direction..the effect could be more apparent if you use warmer whites

 

I like that idea. Sounds neat. That effect probably would be easier to pull off. Maybe do a sandflat with sea grass or something as you get more towards the whites.

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