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What's more important with water parameters for coral growth?


Mr. Microscope

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Mr. Microscope

Hello All,

 

I've been thinking about my water parameters lately. I dose, but they tend to fluctuate a bit. Alk from 8 or 9 to 11, Calcium from 390 to 450, and Magnesium from 1270 to 1380. Note, when dosing I'm usually trying to reach the latter. The former are usually the readings I get just after a water change or in the middle of the week (35% WC weekly, IO Reef salt). I have a small birds nest in there that may be the culprit of my Alk and Ca dropping so fast (would removing it remedy this issue?). I haven't been getting the best growth rate on my zoas which are my main focus right now. I'm thinking this may be due to my LEDs, but also possibly due to all the fluctuation. Perhaps all my puttering with the numbers is a causing more problems than it's solving.

 

'Long story short:

Would I be better off just doing smaller water changes more frequently and not dosing at all (as far as coral growth goes)? Is it more important that my water parameters are stable rather than ideal?

 

 

Thanks for your input!

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Think about creating an environment like the ocean these creatures are from. The ocean (due to it volume) is very stable. A good salt mix should be very close to the parameters of the ocean (a water change should never worsen the quality of your reef's water/parameters). I'd switch to a better reef salt and reduce or even eliminate dosing if possible.

Coral growth can also be very dependent on lighting and water flow.

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Think about creating an environment like the ocean these creatures are from. The ocean (due to it volume) is very stable. A good salt mix should be very close to the parameters of the ocean (a water change should never worsen the quality of your reef's water/parameters). I'd switch to a better reef salt and reduce or even eliminate dosing if possible.

Coral growth can also be very dependent on lighting and water flow.

 

 

I agree I use IO currently and I am already sick of dosing just to have acceptable levels. I doubt that 1 frag of SPS would be causing your levels to fluctuate. Its most likely because you are changing in water that is very low in Ca and Mag and very high in Alk as well as slight variations in the amount dosed can have large effects in a small tank. I just ordered the new ESV salt which will be here on monday and hopefully this will stop the need for dosing until I have a crap ton of sps.

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lakshwadeep

Know the appropriate ranges (not specific "ideal values") of your water parameters, and don't worry much if your values are near one of the edges of the range. With SPS, dosing is often necessary because their growth is closely tied to calcium/alkalinity (and water flow and lighting as seabass mentioned).

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

 

Frequent water changes are great; although, they aren't going to do anything significant to alter potential dosing. It's important to test your water change water to learn about its deficiencies. I agree that it's likely your main problem is using Instant Ocean salt.

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Know the appropriate ranges (not specific "ideal values") of your water parameters, and don't worry much if your values are near one of the edges of the range. With SPS, dosing is often necessary because their growth is closely tied to calcium/alkalinity (and water flow and lighting as seabass mentioned).

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

 

Frequent water changes are great; although, they aren't going to do anything significant to alter potential dosing. It's important to test your water change water to learn about its deficiencies. I agree that it's likely your main problem is using Instant Ocean salt.

 

 

You are correct about acceptable and ideal ranges. I am very OCD about parameters so acceptable levels are not acceptable to me :lol: 380 Calc, 11 kH, ~1160-1200 mag is what my bag of IO tests out to. These levels are pretty much acceptable (maybe mag a little on the low side) but for me I want perfect levels.

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peacemaker
I haven't been getting the best growth rate on my zoas which are my main focus right now. I'm thinking this may be due to my LEDs, but also possibly due to all the fluctuation.

 

What type of lighting were you using before the LEDs?

 

IME, I had very good growth on my zoas when I switched from T5s (4 tubes) to LEDs (Maxspect 110W). It's the colours that I have a problem with.

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westcoastreefer84

Have you figured your daily consumption out yet? Once that is established, dosing becomes quite simple. I have found zoanthids to respond well to a kalk drip. I have a high ca demand, but I assume the zoas appriciate the stable ph

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  • 2 years later...
Know the appropriate ranges (not specific "ideal values") of your water parameters, and don't worry much if your values are near one of the edges of the range. With SPS, dosing is often necessary because their growth is closely tied to calcium/alkalinity (and water flow and lighting as seabass mentioned).

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

 

Frequent water changes are great; although, they aren't going to do anything significant to alter potential dosing. It's important to test your water change water to learn about its deficiencies. I agree that it's likely your main problem is using Instant Ocean salt.

 

 

 

With saying his main problem is using IO what salt mix do you recommend?????

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With saying his main problem is using IO what salt mix do you recommend?????

 

I think I misread the post. I thought the OP had Instant Ocean instead of Reef Crystals (made by Instant Ocean). Reef Crystals is one of many "reef" salts that have higher amounts of calcium and alkalinity (relative to natural seawater, which Instant Ocean is made to replicate) because they get used up faster than other things in captive tanks (with many stony/hard corals).

 

Really, any common brand is okay, either a reef-quality one for tanks with stony corals or a general purpose one like instant ocean.

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