PAR38: 12,00K VS. 20,000K, 40, 60, or 80 degree

[Mr. Microscope]

Hello All,

 

After hitting up google and searching the forum, I couldn't find the answer to this:

 

I'm in the research phase of creating an LED setup. Could someone illustrate or send me a link of what the difference is between 12,000K and 20,000K lighting. I understand using more royal blues end up in 20,000K, but how does this effect corals and the general look of a tank? Right now, I have a 10,000K PC and it is very white. Is 20,000K closer to dusk/dawn look? Can you run exclusively 20,000K? Is one, better, worse, or just personal taste? If there are any pics of the same tank with different warmths of light, that would be cool.

 

Thanks!

[evilc66]

For LEDs, color temp makes absolutely no difference to the growth of corals. Blue LEDs produce just about the same amount of PAR as a white LED does. The only difference is in the way the tank looks. The higher the color temp, the bluer the light. If you are doing a full DIY, you can set up the drivers to control seperate colors and dial in any color temp you want.

 

Taking pictures of LED setups with different color temps is not easy. Blue LEDs have a tendancy to saturate the camera sensor and makes the pictures look bluer than they really are.

[Mr. Fosi]

Ditto evil, with regard to the difficulties of taking objective pics of high K values. The CCD's in cameras aren't generally very good at using the light at the extreme low end of the spectrum. Such as trying to take pics of a deep purple or deep blue FOV.

 

To the human eye, as you get closer to 20000K, you generally lose the yellows and oranges present in the tank unless they come through as fluorescence in the corals. You will get a lot more fluorescent "pop" out of your corals than you would with a lower color temp, but you do so at the expense of a more "natural" look. Your brain can compensate to distinguish some greens, blues, whites and some reds, but you generally lose color perception due to the monochromatic nature of the light.

[Mr. Microscope]

Fantastic! Thanks!

I'm thinking about attempting the Current Satellite 18W LED mod with 4 Q5 whites, 4 royal blues, and two drivers.

I'm also considering purchasing the Evil PAR 38. The options for the PAR38 are either 3B/2W for 20,000K or 2B/3W for 12,000K. So, that is why I was wondering about the difference. The 40 degree should be sufficient for my 3 gallon Picotope. But, I'm not sure if the PAR 38 will be the amount of light I want. Plus, I like the idea of being able to dial in the kind of light I want. Also, building the lights might be fun. But then again, the PAR 38 will probably save me some money, and will be easier all around.

Choices..

[Mr. Microscope]

So, I'm starting to think that I'm going to go with the Par38. Thanks Evil!

 

Does 20,000K look like actinic? I want to get a little bit of glow, but I don't want it to look like a black light. I'm still trying to decide between 12 and 20. Right now, I have 10,000K and the colors are a bit blah on some things.

[Mr. Fosi]

20000K is deep blue. Not blacklight, but very blue.

[evilc66]

So, I'm starting to think that I'm going to go with the Par38. Thanks Evil!

 

Does 20,000K look like actinic? I want to get a little bit of glow, but I don't want it to look like a black light. I'm still trying to decide between 12 and 20. Right now, I have 10,000K and the colors are a bit blah on some things.

 

Either one will get you more flourescence than you are getting now.

[Mr. Microscope]

20000K is deep blue. Not blacklight, but very blue.

 

Good to know. I think the 12 might be more the way I should go. I just want things to pop a little more than they do now.

[Mr. Microscope]

Okay,

So, I've come across this question posted my several people between a few days ago and today, so I thought I would add this to the thread and spread the word.

 

What degree optics would be best for the JBJ 3 Gallon Picotope? I read somewhere that the 80 could be mounted fairly close to the surface (5 inches?). Is this the best option? It seems to me that the 60 would work better, but I don't know for sure. Does anyone have one of the PAR38s with a JBJ Picotope? What are you using?

 

Thanks!

[play-doh]

Okay,

So, I've come across this question posted my several people between a few days ago and today, so I thought I would add this to the thread and spread the word.

 

What degree optics would be best for the JBJ 3 Gallon Picotope? I read somewhere that the 80 could be mounted fairly close to the surface (5 inches?). Is this the best option? It seems to me that the 60 would work better, but I don't know for sure. Does anyone have one of the PAR38s with a JBJ Picotope? What are you using?

 

Thanks!

 

My light will be here tomorrow hopefully I purchased the 12,000k and 60 Degree Optics I will try to get some pictures up..

[Mr. Microscope]

Awesome! Thanks!

[evilc66]

60s can be used on a small tank like this (as well as 40s), but the height over the tank will increase to compensate. If you were to mount the 60s at the same distance as the 80s, your PAR levels would be more than most softies and lps can tollerate. It would be great for an all sps tank though. If you look here at the PAR plots I posted, the PAR almost doubles going from 80 to 60 degrees at the same distance.

[Mr. Microscope]

60s can be used on a small tank like this (as well as 40s), but the height over the tank will increase to compensate. If you were to mount the 60s at the same distance as the 80s, your PAR levels would be more than most softies and lps can tollerate. It would be great for an all sps tank though. If you look here at the PAR plots I posted, the PAR almost doubles going from 80 to 60 degrees at the same distance.

 

So, I'm looking at your graphs (very nice BTW!), and your description said that you only put one fourth of the results since the rest is the same. Would the complete graph look like a 3D bell with the peak in the top corner being the peak of the bell? I'm imagining the light source at the top (0 on X). I understand Z is the amount of light. Is X height from the source, and Y distance from the center?

[evilc66]

X and Y are distance from center, just in different directions. Z is intensity. Think of this as PAR levels on the sand. The dome shape might be a little confusing to some as to what it represents. You could flatten the graph out and it would represent the same data.

[Mr. Microscope]

My light will be here tomorrow hopefully I purchased the 12,000k and 60 Degree Optics I will try to get some pictures up..

 

Any updates play-doh?

[play-doh]

Any updates play-doh?

 

Yeah I actually took pictures with my camera but don't have the cables to remove the pictures but will for sure get them up tonight so you can see how it looks. the light is beautiful kind of has a little purple tint to it..

[fewskillz]

I bought the same Par38 as Play-doh. It does have a nice purple tint. I'm very pleased with it. I'll have some pics of it tonight. Mine will go over a Picotope as well.

[Mr. Microscope]

Yeah I actually took pictures with my camera but don't have the cables to remove the pictures but will for sure get them up tonight so you can see how it looks. the light is beautiful kind of has a little purple tint to it..

I bought the same Par38 as Play-doh. It does have a nice purple tint. I'm very pleased with it. I'll have some pics of it tonight. Mine will go over a Picotope as well.

 

Thanks guys. This is turning out to be a great thread! Can't wait to see.

Also, how will you be mounting them? I have one of those long cords with bulb outlet threading on the end of it. It is made for a 60W bulb so I think it will work. Easy to hang from the ceiling.

[play-doh]

Thanks guys. This is turning out to be a great thread! Can't wait to see.

Also, how will you be mounting them? I have one of those long cords with bulb outlet threading on the end of it. It is made for a 60W bulb so I think it will work. Easy to hang from the ceiling.

 

I purchased a $10.99 Lamp its called "Swing Arm"it's a clamp on from Office Depot I believe Sku# is 681721

[Mr. Microscope]

I purchased a $10.99 Lamp its called "Swing Arm"it's a clamp on from Office Depot I believe Sku# is 681721

 

Does the lamp shade come off of that easily? I've read the PAR38 needs to be open to the air for the heatsink to work properly. Looks nice BTW!

[evilc66]

Those lamps may be vented enough to not require the removal of the shade. We recommend that it be out in the open to guarantee maximum life, but as long as it doesn't get too hot (can't be too hot to the touch), it should be ok.

[play-doh]

Does the lamp shade come off of that easily? I've read the PAR38 needs to be open to the air for the heatsink to work properly. Looks nice BTW!

 

 

 

12000K 60 Optics

[Mr. Microscope]

Thanks for posting!

 

That looks really high up. Is the entire area lit up like crazy, or just the tank? It's hard to tell from the photo.

 

Looks good.

[play-doh]

Thanks for posting!

 

That looks really high up. Is the entire area lit up like crazy, or just the tank? It's hard to tell from the photo.

 

Looks good.

 

yeah im just trying to adjust it at the moment finding a good position but.. it doesnt shine too bright.. just my flash added to it lol.. you should definitely purchase this lighting.

[Mr. Microscope]

yeah im just trying to adjust it at the moment finding a good position but.. it doesnt shine too bright.. just my flash added to it lol.. you should definitely purchase this lighting.

Are you getting the cool shimmering effect in your tank?