Another noob's BC14

[cniemira]

Hi, I'm pretty much new here. After much internal debate, I decided on picked up a BC14 from my LFS today. I'd post pics, but it just looks like an empty BC right now.

 

This will be my first salt water tank, and as such, I'd like to go slowly and carefully with it. I will therefore be playing the part of helpless noob. I'm planning mostly corals for the foreseeable future, but maybe a couple of small fish down the line. For now, I've simply removed the bioballs and stock sponge, checked for leaks, and verified the stock lighting works. I'll probably start on the tank in earnest tomorrow or next weekend. I picked up some sand, but their selection of rock didn't appeal to me, so I passed for the time being.

 

What I found odd is some of the advise the sales guys at my LFS was giving out. I like to think I've done a lot of research, but the following tidbits didn't quite seem to add up to me:

 

*) I was advised not to buy a heater at all. True, the thermostat in my house keeps it comfortable, but I allow the temp to drop at night and during the day when I'm not home. Wouldn't the lack of a heater mean big temp swings under these circumstances?

 

*) I was advised not to use DI/RO water when filling it up. He suggested tap water and a dechlorinator agent. For a tank of this size, why wouldn't I just use DI water to start?

 

*) I was advised that a skimmer is a must in any tank. I was planning to use the second chamber for a media rack (I've already ordered one from inTank, in fact) with chemi-pure and purigen and skip skimming altogether. Since I'm planning to keep a relatively light bio load, I was under the assumption that I wouldn't be roasted in the fires of Hades for not using a skimmer.

 

Anyway, while I have great plans for the tank, there's probably not a lot I'll be doing until after it's established. I'm planning the inTank basket and a pump upgrade to start off (my reading has pretty well convinced me of going to a MaxiJet 900) and possibly a Koralina nano at some point in the not too distant future (though I'm wondering if I should add that sooner or later). Eventually, I'll want better lighting, and I'm looking at either a nanotuners 3.24 or 3.6 upgrade, or I'll built a DIY LED system (I actually have some spare LEDs and buckpucks from another project sitting my desk right now).

 

So, any thoughts or suggestions? Feedback on the advise I've received? Thanks in advance!

[acme54321]

You need a heater, you need to use RO/DI, and you do not need a skimmer. I would never trust anything that guy ever tells you again.

[StevieT]

*) I was advised that a skimmer is a must in any tank. I was planning to use the second chamber for a media rack (I've already ordered one from inTank, in fact) with chemi-pure and purigen and skip skimming altogether. Since I'm planning to keep a relatively light bio load, I was under the assumption that I wouldn't be roasted in the fires of Hades for not using a skimmer.

 

inTank you.

 

A skimmer is hardly a must in such a small tank. With good filtration like the media basket and regular water changes there is not a need for one.

[StevieT]

*) I was advised not to buy a heater at all. True, the thermostat in my house keeps it comfortable, but I allow the temp to drop at night and during the day when I'm not home. Wouldn't the lack of a heater mean big temp swings under these circumstances?

 

wow, you may want to find a new LFS. A heater is a must to regulate temperatures as you state. You want to keep it around or less than a 2° shift daily. Get a heater, place in chamber one, remove false floor.

*) I was advised not to use DI/RO water when filling it up. He suggested tap water and a dechlorinator agent. For a tank of this size, why wouldn't I just use DI water to start?

 

uhhhhh. New LFS time for sure. Use RO/DI never risk it with tap water. You can use tap to LEAK test but it should be removed after that.

 

*) I was advised that a skimmer is a must in any tank. I was planning to use the second chamber for a media rack (I've already ordered one from inTank, in fact) with chemi-pure and purigen and skip skimming altogether. Since I'm planning to keep a relatively light bio load, I was under the assumption that I wouldn't be roasted in the fires of Hades for not using a skimmer.

 

Answered this above.

 

Anyway, while I have great plans for the tank, there's probably not a lot I'll be doing until after it's established. I'm planning the inTank basket and a pump upgrade to start off (my reading has pretty well convinced me of going to a MaxiJet 900) and possibly a Koralina nano at some point in the not too distant future (though I'm wondering if I should add that sooner or later). Eventually, I'll want better lighting, and I'm looking at either a nanotuners 3.24 or 3.6 upgrade, or I'll built a DIY LED system (I actually have some spare LEDs and buckpucks from another project sitting my desk right now).

 

If you start to stock corals then get the koralia, you won't need it before.

[cniemira]

Thanks for the reassurance. I thought that those three bullets worth of advise wasn't anything worth listening to. Good thing for N-R, or I might have followed it and probably had a frustrating time.

 

So, the tank is leak free and the stock equipment works. I think I'm off to find a different LFS today in search of better looking LR (the first place had only very large and very small pieces in stock yesterday).

[ReeferFL]

wow, you may want to find a new LFS.

 

+1 agreed.

 

StevieT gave great advice. Keep up the good work.

[cniemira]

I'd gotten some good feedback on that store from my co-workers, but I guess a little first hand knowledge goes a long way. Clearly, I'll never trust that particular sales dude again, but at least their prices are reasonable and their dry goods are in nice shape. There are a few other places in the area that I'll try to seek out more knowledgeable staff from, though.

[cniemira]

Okay, I'm off. The tank is filled and coming up to temperature. So, yay.

 

Another question, though... should I be surprised that a "14 gallon tank" took less than 10 gallons of water to fill? True, chambers 2 & 3 aren't quite full (they're half way between the "min" and "max" levels indicated in the left side window, but I don't think I could get another 4 gallons of water in there without making a mess. ;-)

[blibo]

Less than 10g might be a little off for a bc14. If you do the math out the tank should be about 13g filled to the brink. You need to include the volume that's taken up by the rocks/sand/equipments . That's good that you figured out your tank will hold about 10g of actually water volume. That's the true value you use for dosing. GL

 

P.S. maybe that last gallon includes the hood lol

[cniemira]

P.S. maybe that last gallon includes the hood lol

 

As a matter of fact, I think it does.

 

Assuming the information in this thread is accurate, the exterior dimensions of the BC14 are supposed to be 15W x 15.5L x 17H (which some quick measurements tell me is about right). If you take a 15"x15.5" footprint, you'd need 14.25" of height to get the claimed 14.3 gallons of volume. My tape measure tells me that's well enough above the lip of the aquarium (extending into the hood) to make it impossible to get that volume. Anyway, all that's all inaccurate anyway since those dimensions refer to the exterior of the tank.

 

I went ahead and dumped in the rest of that last gallon (there wasn't much left, and it's easier to measure salt for a round 10g anyway), and noted the exact water position in the "level window" with a pencil mark.

 

 

The only things I have in my tank are the stock pump, a heater, a thermometer, 10g of distilled water, and 3lbs of IO salt. Nothing else. Kinda disappointing to learn that the actual usable liquid volume of this tank is 40% less than what's claimed.

[StevieT]

Most AIOs like the biocubes and nano cubes are not true to their #s. It is more of a part number or like you did the outside volume. It is not a true representation of water volume. 10 sounds about right. where you have your water level. Disregard the min/max line and fill chamber two up to about the top.

[cniemira]

It is not a true representation of water volume. 10 sounds about right. where you have your water level.

 

I wonder how many people get thrown off by this fact? I certainly was... If I hadn't measured the water going in, it probably would have meant a world of wrong assumptions and frustration down the road. Hm. Anyway... I was planning to let the tank run water only for another day or so, then top back up to my 10g mark before drawing off 2-3g to make headroom for LR and sand. Whatever their actual displacement, I should then be able to top back up and have a pretty good measure of the actual amount of water in the tank.

 

Then I get to sit back, relax, and enjoy the cycle and algae blooms. Based on some of my reading (in particular this piece), I'm expecting to wait at least 3 months before doing much of anything. Maybe I'll do an LED upgrade during that time... I expect the stock lights should be fine for the cycle, right?

[StevieT]

A lot are thrown off if they actually measure what they put in the first time. It is much more noticeable in a smaller tank like the BC14 vs a BC29. In the end it really isn't a big deal.

 

3 months sounds a bit long, I would estimate a good cycle to take about one month. It all depends on your rock and if it is fully cured or not. Even if cured any time out of water will create die off which will have to cycle again.

 

Just have a good test kit and let it tell you when to stock. Stock slowly and do regular water changes after your cycle.

 

Stock lights are fine for the cycle, which doesn't need light. You can keep softies and LPS under those lights, SPS would not be recommended.

[reefarchitect54]

Just wanted to say Hi... I have the BC 14g as well and will be setting it up very soon..

 

I ordered the Maxii-Jet 900, Koralia Nano, Marineland Heater, Media Rack, Thermometer, as well as Filter Floss, Carbon, and Rings for the rack.

 

Im going to start the tank up in a few days I think once I get it all installed.. I was thinking of getting the Skimmer but it seems like I dont need it..

 

I cut the tab from chamber 1 to 2 and also busted out the false bottom of chamber 1 for my heater.. Why are people taking out the sponge in chamber 3??? Is it so that the MJ 900 will fit???

 

Oh and another question I have is am I supposed to keep the rack and media out of the tank while it is cycling???

 

Thanks!!

 

PS- Post some picks!!!

[cniemira]

3 months sounds a bit long, I would estimate a good cycle to take about one month.

...

Stock lights are fine for the cycle, which doesn't need light.

 

Here are two examples of confusion for a poor new guy like me. I've read opinions on both sides of both of those statements. "Cycle until your test kit says it's ready," and "you're better off to wait a good while after the kit says it's ready." "You don't need lights for the cycle," and "run the lights on their normal schedule during the cycle." I'd point to specific examples, but I don't think I need to... I'm sure anyone will agree the 'Net is full of contrary opinions. My guess is that these are classic "there's no absolutely right or wrong way to do it" topics. Being both paranoid an patient, I'll probably lean in the direction of the most cautious and slow-going options.

 

Im going to start the tank up in a few days I think once I get it all installed.. I was thinking of getting the Skimmer but it seems like I dont need it..

Hi. All I can say is that I have almost the exact same setup as you describe, and I'm not planning to use a skimmer.

 

I cut the tab from chamber 1 to 2 and also busted out the false bottom of chamber 1 for my heater.. Why are people taking out the sponge in chamber 3??? Is it so that the MJ 900 will fit???

I wasn't planning on removing the tab between C1/2 until after I install the MJ900 (hasn't arrived yet) and observe a reason to do so. I've read that removing the tab is supposed to increase the "rate of flow" in the tank, but I have a hard time believing that. Granted, I'm new to this all, but it seems to me that the rate of flow is driven by the pump. The only thing that tab restricts is the overflow from C1 into C2. Gravity takes care of the rest. Now, if the pump upgrade (stock -> MJ 900) is significant enough that the tab restricts water in C1 to the point where there's a risk of overflowing out of the tank, I can see getting rid of it. But for me, personally, I'd like to witness the effect I'm altering before making mods.

 

My understanding about the sponge is that nasty things can breed on it, and it's an unnecessarily redundant layer of mechanical filtration if you're already using the media rack with floss in the top section. But again, I'm just regurgitating what I've read elsewhere. ;-)

 

Oh, and... lastly, I was planning to put the rack itself in my tank when it arrives, but leave it empty of media until shortly before I add a CUC.

[Jordan_o]

Just wanted to say Hi... I have the BC 14g as well and will be setting it up very soon..

 

I ordered the Maxii-Jet 900, Koralia Nano, Marineland Heater, Media Rack, Thermometer, as well as Filter Floss, Carbon, and Rings for the rack.

 

Im going to start the tank up in a few days I think once I get it all installed.. I was thinking of getting the Skimmer but it seems like I dont need it..

 

I cut the tab from chamber 1 to 2 and also busted out the false bottom of chamber 1 for my heater.. Why are people taking out the sponge in chamber 3??? Is it so that the MJ 900 will fit???

 

Oh and another question I have is am I supposed to keep the rack and media out of the tank while it is cycling???

 

Thanks!!

 

PS- Post some picks!!!

 

You all need to look over the biocube resource guide, it will answer alot of these questions.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180788

 

Do I need to remove the sponges?

Many biocube owners remove the sponges that come in a stock system because over time they build up and trap detritus that will cause your nitrates to rise. The benefit to keeping them is that they filter out large things that may otherwise get sucked up into your pump. If you do decide to keep them it is a good idea to rinse them out every week and replace them every 3-4 weeks

[DoubleD]

You all need to look over the biocube resource guide, it will answer alot of these questions.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180788

 

Do I need to remove the sponges?

Many biocube owners remove the sponges that come in a stock system because over time they build up and trap detritus that will cause your nitrates to rise. The benefit to keeping them is that they filter out large things that may otherwise get sucked up into your pump. If you do decide to keep them it is a good idea to rinse them out every week and replace them every 3-4 weeks

 

I left the one sponge between chamber 2 and 3. I pull it out once in a while to check it, but there are tons of pods and sponges living in it now. It also traps microbubbles from the water falling through your media rack.

[jeremyd]

Just wanted to say Hi... I have the BC 14g as well and will be setting it up very soon..

 

I ordered the Maxii-Jet 900, Koralia Nano, Marineland Heater, Media Rack, Thermometer, as well as Filter Floss, Carbon, and Rings for the rack.

 

Im going to start the tank up in a few days I think once I get it all installed.. I was thinking of getting the Skimmer but it seems like I dont need it..

 

I cut the tab from chamber 1 to 2 and also busted out the false bottom of chamber 1 for my heater.. Why are people taking out the sponge in chamber 3??? Is it so that the MJ 900 will fit???

 

Oh and another question I have is am I supposed to keep the rack and media out of the tank while it is cycling???

 

Thanks!!

 

PS- Post some picks!!!

 

 

Where did you order your Marineland Heater and Media Rack from?

[cniemira]

Where did you order your Marineland Heater and Media Rack from?

 

LFS and mediabaskets.com, respectively, in my case.