So I bought a RO/DI system...now what?

[Thunderstruck34]

So i have had the RODI system hooked up to the sink and let it run for 15 min to kind of "flush" or get its stuff going...i bought a tds meter and that should come to day but anyways i did what i could do and tested the water...no alk and very very low ph...now my question is what do i do now? in regards to adding this to my reef tank? do i have to add baking soda to raise the PH? what i was told and planned on doing was to do a 100% water change and add the RO water (i used tap before). As long as the Ph/temp/salinity are the same i should be fine...i was also told...so now the big question is how should i go about doing this? temp and salinity are not an issue but does the alk have to be the same too? its a 29G Reef tank btw...i have almost 30G mixed as of now.

[The Propagator]

NO

 

Your not making up fresh salt mix right ? Just pouring in top of water right ?

 

DO NOT DO A 100% WATER CHANGE. Just keep doing your water changes at 20% or a litrtle more each using th4e new RO/DI water as well as using it for top offs. before you know it your tank will be completely ro/DI.

Doing a 100% change will fook you ROYALLY.

[Marteen]

When you add the salt it will raise the PH and alk of your RO/DI water. If you are using it to top off your tank DO NOT add salt. If you are still cycling and feel you want to do a 100% change go ahead, it won't hurt anything. BUT if you have fish and CuC in there do not do this, I do not think the benefit will outweigh the potential for disaster.

[Thunderstruck34]

NO

 

Your not making up fresh salt mix right ? Just pouring in top of water right ?

well...i was planning on doing the water change because that is what i was told...to remove the phosphates and other "impure" things in my tank, i was told that to really get rid of that a full water change was needed then to acclimate my livestock slowly back into the tank with complete RO water. I did mix a 5G pail with salt already tho. but the tank that i have as my RO storage i have not.

[Thunderstruck34]

holy moly fast replies...ok seems to make more sense to me to not do a 100% water change...only advice i was given...very very reliable source btw...but heavily outnumbered...i added phosban into one of my filters so will this along side with the RO greatly reduce my phosphates? any guesses on how long that would take...my phos is about 1ppm...im glad i didn't do the water change without asking...kinda hesitant on it anyway but all this info is greatly appreciated

[Marteen]

Phosban will absorb most of the phosphates in your tank from the tap. I would say just do a big water change like 50%, not 100%. As long as nothing is showing adverse effects from the tap I wouldn't worry about it. Weekly water changes though will help to keep your tank in good working order.

[kgross]

Do not do a 100% water supply, it is very very stressful on the life in the tank. The critters in your tank are used to stable water, and when you do a 100% water change, any parameters that have changed, will change a lot with the water change, so you can cause more problems then you solve.

 

If you are worried about phosphates, any of the good GFO type media will work very well. Phosban, RowaPhos, BellaPhos etc.

 

Kim

[AZDesertRat]

15 minutes is not a proper flush of a new RO/DI system.

Most membrane manufacturers recommend you flush 3 to 5 gallons of RO water to waste before using the unit. The proper flushing technique is to flush each component individually so you do not pass contaminants on to the next component in line. Start by disconnecting the line from the carbon filter to the RO membrane and flush to waste to remove and carbon fines or dust so it does not contaminate the membrane. If you have dual carbon blocks remove the second one from its housing and flush the first one alone before adding the second one and flush them both. reconnect to the RO membrane and now flush your 3 to 5 gallons or RO only by removing the DI filter or cartridge so you do not pass the antimicrobial coatings from the membarne on to the DI resin shortening its life drastically. Finally install the DI filter or cartridge and do a final risne up of the DI resin for about a gallon or until the TDS meter says 0 TDS and you are good to go.

I hate it when vendors neglect to tell new uses the above steps, but again most of them are there to sell you new filters and make money.

[NanoReefNovice]

15 minutes is not a proper flush of a new RO/DI system.

Most membrane manufacturers recommend you flush 3 to 5 gallons of RO water to waste before using the unit. The proper flushing technique is to flush each component individually so you do not pass contaminants on to the next component in line. Start by disconnecting the line from the carbon filter to the RO membrane and flush to waste to remove and carbon fines or dust so it does not contaminate the membrane. If you have dual carbon blocks remove the second one from its housing and flush the first one alone before adding the second one and flush them both. reconnect to the RO membrane and now flush your 3 to 5 gallons or RO only by removing the DI filter or cartridge so you do not pass the antimicrobial coatings from the membarne on to the DI resin shortening its life drastically. Finally install the DI filter or cartridge and do a final risne up of the DI resin for about a gallon or until the TDS meter says 0 TDS and you are good to go.

I hate it when vendors neglect to tell new uses the above steps, but again most of them are there to sell you new filters and make money.

 

Overkill

 

Just flush 5 gal, check with TDS, good to go.

 

Do not do full water change, daily 20%ers will dilute out any phosphate. %100er is wayy to much shock.

[AZDesertRat]

No its not overkill. Use your TDS meter next time you buy a new membrane or change filters and you will see what I am talking about. Long time vendors like Spectrapure and others who have been in this hobby and industry include these directions in their literature and have know the value for years. Membranes are treated with anti bacteria or antimicrobial agents you do not want in your DI resin. Carbons, especially low quality or high micron types and granular produts contain a fair amount of solids and dust which can clog membranes. DI resins are coated with substances which need to be rinsed up before use and the manufacturers recognize this even though resellers and vendors neglect to tell you.

Don't say its overkill when you don't have the facts.

 

 

Overkill

 

Just flush 5 gal, check with TDS, good to go.

 

Do not do full water change, daily 20%ers will dilute out any phosphate. %100er is wayy to much shock.

[NanoReefNovice]

Don't say its overkill when you don't have the facts.

 

Whoa . Actually i used an inline TDS as i broke mine in so i did see what you are talking about. Dont make assumptions when you dont have facts.

[AZDesertRat]

Inline meters are not as accurate as handhelds for one and two they only monitor two points.Which two of the three or four did you monitor? Inlines are not temperature compensated and do not have lookup tables built into the microprocessor to do so. They also monitor room temperature and not water temperature which almost never are the same. I would not rely on an inline, in fact I have two of them but rarely even turn them on since they never agree with the COM-100 handheld.

[NanoReefNovice]