iso_n Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Inspire by other members, I'd decided to move to LED lighting on my NC12. My design is base on the following 2 threads http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...170608&st=0 http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=175175 The modification are mainly to fit the HS into the stock hood, and resolve the potential heat problem. Here is the parts list: - The LED I used are from cree (XR-E) binned cool white (10K), and Royal Blue (450-460nm). - Power supply is meanwell S150-24 (6.5A max load) - LED driver Luxdrive from LED dynamic (1A version) - Heatsink from HeatsinkUSA.....(heavy...) Here is the modification: 1. Here is the original Hood (with stock fan) http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 2. Here is the side view of the HS, need to shorten 3 fins in the front (facing to the glass) and 2 fins at the back (filter side) http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 3. Opening (heat channel) also cut for air flow between the splash and the heat sink http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 4. Side bracket for mounting the HS, 4 high flow 30mm fan (4.6 CFM) blow air away from the HS http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 5. Mounting hole on the hood (threaded) http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 6. Additional air slot open up on the hood. Noticed the aluminium sheet cover part of the hole. Nylon screw mount the bracket. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 7. Finished photo on the hood, stock fan is out. (may need to put back in ??) http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ 8. Power supply, one fan blow in and one fan blow out. http://www.flickr.com/photos/33444754@N05/...57612356675397/ How to resolve the Heat problem: 1. fan blow out on one side, this suck the air from the other end and force the air to travel through the whole HS, you want a slow air flow so heat exchange can take place. 2. open up the air channel on the stock hood as the HS width, and cover part of the opening. You want the air go in the HS and exit the HS at the vertical side of the fins. leaving top opening open will reduce the air flow through the heat sink. 3. air channel cut on the side of the HS, so air can flow through between the space between the splash and the HS. Notices the fan is actually mount at the lowest point in the bracket. It is actually directly facing to the air channel of the HS. What you get after all of this?? 1. 3 moonlight LED 9V@350mA (no fan) = 0 degree changes 2. 2 line (6 LED each, 32V@350mA, exhaust fan on) = 0 degree changes (maybe 0.2) 3. 4 line (6 LED each, 32V@1A, exhaust fan on) = 4 degree changes (maybe resolve by putting back the stock fan to blow on the water surface) Link to comment
npain316 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Very sweet. Are those temp readings of the water or the heatsink? Thats an impressive amount of LEDs packed into that hood. Welcome to the club! Do you have plans to get some PAR readings on it? I will hopefully get some today. Cheers, Nick Link to comment
iso_n Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Very sweet. Are those temp readings of the water or the heatsink? Thats an impressive amount of LEDs packed into that hood. Welcome to the club! Do you have plans to get some PAR readings on it? I will hopefully get some today. Cheers, Nick The reading is from the water, I'd 2 thermometer in the tank and both show the same degree of changing when the light is on/off. The exhaust air is little warm when the LEDs is max out, I'd keep my room temperature at around 65F, I still need to find out what is the temperature during the summer time when in side hit 80F... The main 4 strings of LEDs (2 white/2 blue) is running of directly from the PS. The 3 moonlight LEDs is power by a 9V@410mA adaptor (from a old 800Mhz wireless phone). Both of them connected to the Coralife Timer right now. I will try to get some KWH reading for the light in the next couple days. My next plan is to do a control module for dimming, interested?? Link to comment
npain316 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 The reading is from the water, I'd 2 thermometer in the tank and both show the same degree of changing when the light is on/off. The exhaust air is little warm when the LEDs is max out, I'd keep my room temperature at around 65F, I still need to find out what is the temperature during the summer time when in side hit 80F... The main 4 strings of LEDs (2 white/2 blue) is running of directly from the PS. The 3 moonlight LEDs is power by a 9V@410mA adaptor (from a old 800Mhz wireless phone). Both of them connected to the Coralife Timer right now. I will try to get some KWH reading for the light in the next couple days. My next plan is to do a control module for dimming, interested?? No thanks. I would measure the temperature of your heatsink to make sure your not getting to hot. My heatsink runs at about 29 degrees C. I asked Evil what a good range would be and he said below 50C would be safe. You don't want to burn up your LEDs because they are getting too hot. This can be done with a multimeter if you have a thermalcouple and some leftover thermal paste very easily. Nick Link to comment
bonsai reefer Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 tight let's see ti in action. Link to comment
evo72man Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 tight let's see ti in action. Nice, lets see it in action. Also how much was all the parts? Link to comment
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