Wood Sealer ?

[Grendel0501]

I am planning on putting together a shelf to hang my light fixture from (can't hand from ceiling). Nothing special , just a simple shelf.

Something like a 4' shelf with 6' legs. It would be about 20" above the tank , the legs would be along the side , with wider feet to keep it stable , also no back to the shelf.

Basically a book shelf , minus the back and all but the top shelf. Also I'm gonna trim the side walls , so that the sides of the tank can still be seen. Something like this shape.

 

 

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I'm gonna try and match the finish of the light shelf , as what is on my tank stand.

I figure I am ok with treating the wood , but I'd like to ask to make sure.

What can I treat the wood with? Will anything be ok , or is there a possibilty of something getting into the water over time?

Should I use a different material than wood? I might be able to get some 2x4 vinyl and make it that way. Wouldn't look great , but it wouldn't rot either.

[Rocket]

Stain it to color. Add sealer. Then add interior wood finish. I Like the gloss look but that's me. Nothing will flake off.

[steve0xr]

When you do your clear coat I would do about 3 layers. As in, clear coat, let dry, clear coat, let dry, clear coat, let dry.

[redfishsc]

I'm a professional finisher, so maybe I can reassure you and give some advice to supplement the good advice already given above.

 

First, yes, you are perfectly safe with the finish. I have not seen a finish that I would suspect would cause a problem with a reef once it's cured (ie, give it a couple days to fume off).

 

 

Here is how I would do this, for simplicity sake.

 

1) Use wood stain of choice and allow it to cure/dry for however long the can recommends. Minwax is STUPID-LONG so I rarely use it. Look for a stain that has a 1-hour or less dry time simply to save you some time.

 

2) Buy a can of polyurethane (oil base preferably, water base if it's all that's available). Remove some from the can and thin it with mineral spirits (paint thinner) by about 30%. Doesn't have to be perfect 30%, anything from 30-50% will work. This is your first coat, the "seal coat". Won't need much.

 

3) Brush this on THIN! Do not NOT NOT NOT put on a fat heavy coat or it will drip/run. Use a nice brush (spend $8 on a decent brush, you will be glad). Brush slow to avoid bubbles in the stuff. CURE OVERNIGHT.

 

4) Sand the whole thing with 320 grit sandpaper, sand the finish sealcoat gently until it feels smooth. Wipe off the powdery residue.

 

5) Now, thin some polyurethane around 10-20% and use this for the second coat, BRUSH LIGHTLY and don't put it on heavy. CURE OVERNIGHT. If you like the look when it's cured, then you are done. Personally I usually re-sand this second coat with 320 grit and brush on a third light coat.

 

 

 

 

If you want more rapid results, you can buy "Deft Wood Finish" in an aerosol can--- buy one can of "sanding sealer" and one can of "wood finish". Spray a coat of sanding sealer, let it cure for an hour, sand it smooth with 320 grit, and spray several topcoats of the "wood finish". It's just lacquer. Pretty, and for your purposes, probably durable enough, but I would NEVER finish an aquarium stand with Deft Lacquer since it will NOT stand up well to saltwater (or fresh for that matter).

[Maeda]

spar varnish. the stuff they make for wooden boats...

 

multiple thin coats with a decent brush.

[jcolletteiii]

+1000^2 on the spar varnish. Get it in the spray cans, don't have to bother with a brush at all. Thin, even coats, fine sand or steel wool between completely cured coats.

[masterbuilder]

I dont like spar varnish.... it never actually cures completely. Listen to the professional above.

 

Mark

[Militant Jurist]

I'm thinking of using 2x4's to build the framework for a DIY hood, using PVC pipe as the legs. Should I get treated or untreated, and should I seal the wood?

[masterbuilder]

Google treated lumber and you tell us.

 

Mark

 

p.s. you wont like what your read.

[Militant Jurist]

This isn't my first barbecue. Pressure treated wood has many pros and cons, the weight of which in a marine setting is the subject for which I sought an opinion. Pressure treated wood is great for resisting decay in a high moisture environment, yet without an additional preservative, is still susceptible to the effects of weathering (which I can conceive as an issue with a saltwater aquarium, especially creep). In addition, the chemical process used to treat the wood is considered toxic by many, causing some municipalities to prohibit treated lumber from being used as a post (due to it being buried in the ground and leaching). However, this seems in part due to an old scare, and modern treated lumber is created using an alternative treatment process. Due to the above stated pros and cons, and my lack of expertise in the current methods of treatment and their interplay with the elements of a saltwater aquarium, I'm looking for opinions and experience.

[Grendel0501]

Luckily the previous owner wrote down the finish on the inside of the stand. "Golden Pecan"

 

 

I was gonna get untreated , and seal it myself. Looks better imo.

[Rocket]

Golden pecan- sounds like a minwax stain. I work with it great stuff.

[Jakesaw]

All wood finishes are sealers. Some are marketed as sealers ( like Sealcoat which is just unwaxed shellac ). I think you'd be fine with any type of Varnish / Urethane as a finish coat. IIt's the most durable finish until you get to Marine grade finishes which are an expensive alternative.

[jcolletteiii]

I dont like spar varnish.... it never actually cures completely. Listen to the professional above.

 

Mark

 

I've never had such an issue with spar varnish, and have used it a number of times. It does have some drawbacks - it tends to yellow the stain color a bit, can take quite a while to cure, and smells terrible for a good long time. However, it is very specifically made for marine, high moisture, and outdoor applications. So, if you are after a finish designed to be around salt... I think you would be remiss not to consider it.

[masterbuilder]

Jurist,

 

Didnt mean it to come off as being a smartass. Anywho... treated lumber primarly contains ACQ (thats why its stamped on it) which is Alkaline Copper with Quaternary Ammonium Compound, it also has fungicides and insecticides. Its not something I would put over a tank. For the stand, maybe.....but never on top where condensation WILL drip back into the tank. Treated lumber can be sealed I guess, but then there is no advantage to it over untreated for our indoor aquarium use.

 

Also, all the treated lumber I am able to locate is quite high in moisture and trends to shrink and TWIST so much over time it makes it a major pain to work with. It accepts paint poorly and tends to bleed through most coatings. I am a contractor and for this reason alone, I try to use other types of materials where possible.

 

If you want something that you dont have to paint/finish and will not rot or grow mildew on it, try cypress. Prob cheaper to just use pine and a $5 quart of poly.

[Militant Jurist]

Ok, makes sense. I know a lot of people who use treated wood in marine applications, but the small amounts of copper would have no real effect in those settings (as opposed to ours!) Looks like I'll be making a trip to home depot next week for some lumber, and start building my lighting framework! I'm going to be making the ghetto lighting in my build thread (in the sig) a little bit less ghetto. Thanks.