New at retro fitting; confusion in placing lights in 5g

[gurnie]

I build a beautiful 5g canopy and stand for my boyfriend's mom who really wanted a small saltwater tank. So i bought t the Current 15" Sunpaq retrofit 2-32w (specifically This auction.) Many hours went into making this and its made of very nice cherry wood. it took about 30-40 hours to build.

 

 

So when i got it yesterday i am totally confused on how to fit it in my tank.

 

1. Do just the lights go into the hood? If not and the ballast is suppose to fit in, i don't think there is any way physically possible to do this with my 5g.

 

 

 

2. So as we all know its a lot easier to drill a nice circle than an oval-ish shape for the lighting plug to exit the inside canopy. Are the wires plugs (that go to the ballast) detachable so i can straight the cord through a nice drilled circle and then reconnect the plughead?

 

 

3. I was told this would fit and the lights most certainly do... but the rest of it not so much. I assume i need to trim down the metal plates. Are there any more adjustments i need to do? Is the ballast meant to be held in say, a cabinet in a tank stand?:

 

 

Suggestion please please please are welcomed.

 

 

[dwolls]

ok maybe I'm just showing my total lack of knowlege here, but couldn't you mount the lights in the hood and just set the ballest anywhere? If that would work, then maybe, just maybe I could go with that to upgrade the lighting on my ecllipse 12 gal. I need more blue light!

Diana

[121a]

yes you need to mount that ballast somewhere else. so you don't drill through the wood and have screws coming out like i do i suggest doing something like this made out of 2x2's

Then mount the bulb clips on the reflectors and screw them into the wood and you should be good to go.

[dwolls]

well on a plastic hood like mine (or wood) could you maybe glue the reflectors in with an epoxy glue or something like e6000 then mount in the lights?

[Rocket]

The thing with gluing though is the heat buildup usually weakens the bonds. If you got the right glue it will work. But I would feel much safer with it screwed into place.

[herranton]

You should mount the reflectors and the lamps in the canopy and put the ballast somewhere else. remember to put a piece of glass between the lamps and the water.

 

Btw, the canopy and base look awesome, I wish I could do work like that!!

[gurnie]

Thanks everyone for the remarks

So i will screw the reflector in place, i'll more than likely have to cut the reflector down. but do the wire plugs (that go to the ballast) detach so i can put the cord through a nice drilled circle and then reconnect the plughead?

 

121a, i can't really do anything else (wood wise) with this project. the woodshop is closed and when working with this hood that i made, there is about 3" between the top of the hood and to the water's edge. so i'll be using lexan to separate the lights from the water. Ps: after reviewing what you wrote, are you telling me to bend the reflectors so they are more vertical then horizontal? thats a good idea

 

So either way i'm more than likely drilling a big hole for the plugs that go into the ballast, correct

 

harranton, thanks for the kind words! i had a great teacher, and it was a nice break to get away from the TV and work on this piece!

[herranton]

Thanks everyone for the remarks

So i will screw the reflector in place, i'll more than likely have to cut the reflector down. but do the wire plugs (that go to the ballast) detach so i can put the cord through a nice drilled circle and then reconnect the plughead?

 

You can clip the wire near the connector that goes into the lamp, then run the wire through a small hole on the canopy. Solder, shrink wrap, and tape the wires back together. Viola, good as new, with no big holes in the canopy.

[121a]

yeah i noticed the little feet on the canopy after i looked again. I would not suggest doing anything to the reflectors unless you want to.

 

do what the above poster said for the wires.

 

Awesome woodworking too.

[Superdave]

I am so pleased, believe it or not, to see this thread with pictures! I am in the process of upgrading my lighting (to this fixture) and building a new hood (for this size tank). I am always leery buying online as I can't get a good sense for the size of the components and the potential "fit."

 

The choice of wood is a good one and I'm impressed with the simplicity of design. My father and I made my current hood way too complicated and I've sketched essentially this exact hood to make things a bit simpler.

 

Some questions...

 

This light kit comes with only one ballast, correct?

It looks as though the endcap wires detach from the ballast--am I seeing that right? From the delimma in your post, I'm assuming the cord does not detach from the ballast though.

What are the rough dimensions of the ballast? I am considering "hiding" the ballast in the base of the stand I'm building, but don't know if that would be a problem heat wise.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread a bit--I've literally spent dozens of hours reading and searching for someone who has used this fixture on this size tank.

 

It looks great and I am anxious to see how it progresses--hopefully you can update us with pics later on down the road.

[gurnie]

I am so pleased, believe it or not, to see this thread with pictures! I am in the process of upgrading my lighting (to this fixture) and building a new hood (for this size tank). I am always leery buying online as I can't get a good sense for the size of the components and the potential "fit."

 

The choice of wood is a good one and I'm impressed with the simplicity of design. My father and I made my current hood way too complicated and I've sketched essentially this exact hood to make things a bit simpler.

 

Some questions...

 

This light kit comes with only one ballast, correct?

It looks as though the endcap wires detach from the ballast--am I seeing that right? From the delimma in your post, I'm assuming the cord does not detach from the ballast though.

What are the rough dimensions of the ballast? I am considering "hiding" the ballast in the base of the stand I'm building, but don't know if that would be a problem heat wise.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread a bit--I've literally spent dozens of hours reading and searching for someone who has used this fixture on this size tank.

 

It looks great and I am anxious to see how it progresses--hopefully you can update us with pics later on down the road.

 

 

 

Hey I hope I can help.

 

First of all the design is a bit more complicated that it looks (i'm sneaky that way). If you look at the top picture you will see the hood is one solid *looking* piece... see the seam?

 

The hood is actually divided and existentially makes two "boxes." The bottom box is what will hold the lights. the top box is about 1.5" tall and is tall enough to maybe fit a small canister of food, my auto top off and a pair of tweezers and a few other small narrow items.

 

What your mainly seeing in these pics are the bottom box, that holds the lights

 

Ok so back to the question.

 

The light does come with one ballast. The endcaps (or the plug for the light) does detach from the ballast. My problem is i have yet to drill a hole for the wires to come through. And i was hoping the plugs could be taken off the cord so a small hole could be drilled to feed the wire through. Unfortunately they do not detach (i am not a electrician, So i refuse the screw with the wires.)

 

rough dimensions of the ballast i'd say are... well the tank is 17" long... i'd say its 13-15" give or take by 3-4" (my tank top is about 18"X9")

 

I'm not sure about hiding the ballast under the tank. It's a good 2-3" tall so then you'd have to find a way to support the middle of your tank (you'll have rock sitting on the glass and then a ballast underneath... i think any area unsupported by the ballast will be a weak point in your tank. Your probably likely to get a stress crack unless you put a book under there.) Not to mention the heat issues you brought up. *edit you could always make a stand and then make another box to hid the ballast. I might consider doing that later on if the receiver is bugged by the ballast.

 

Actually the size of the ballast is one of the "problems" of the design. I never anticipated it being so big. because of its size, i think my boyfriend's mom is going to have to put the tank in a different room. If anyone can suggest anything i'm willing to listen.

 

I can't make any my progress until i meet with my shop teacher again. I have to drill that one last hole in the top to accommodate the lights (and we have to use a Forstner bit and a drill press. I don't have either that is big enough for the job i need to do).

 

I've debated on wither i should send back the lights, just because of the dang ballast size, but i don't think i will. see this tank is for a friend and i'd hate for them to want a certain coral at the fish store, only to be told no or for it to die because the lighting in the tank sucked.

 

 

PS: As a second thought you have to remember with my case I'm being picky because its a gift. i think the receiver will love it no matter what; big ballast and all. all of my "problems" are just solveable, and are more a matter of taste, than lack of function.

[Superdave]

Thanks for the info--

 

30 to 40 hours did seem a bit much for *that* simple of a hood--nicely done. Mostly people don't even attempt to take into account storage in hoods for tanks this size. Did you only use glue to "fasten" the pieces together?

 

If you are looking to clean up the access holes for plugs and cords there are number of cabinet component sites that sell a variety of grommets including ones made of wood.

[gurnie]

Thanks for the info--

 

30 to 40 hours did seem a bit much for *that* simple of a hood--nicely done. Mostly people don't even attempt to take into account storage in hoods for tanks this size. Did you only use glue to "fasten" the pieces together?

 

If you are looking to clean up the access holes for plugs and cords there are number of cabinet component sites that sell a variety of grommets including ones made of wood.

 

 

No, i used more than glue.

 

First we used small nails, then we used glue. We used

tightbond glue, which is water proof.

 

we used clamps to hold it all together. A grommet is not a bad idea, but since i am squeezing two wires (this ballast has a wire for each fixture) into one hole, i'll probably just stick to a hole in the back ( it might be good for letting heat out of the top. and could solve any possible heating issues.

 

Make sure you use stainless steel nails when constructing. Oh an use a polyurethane for finish. Its waterproof and won't kill the fishies It's also easy to apply and easy to apply finish in corners

 

 

So are you going to go for that lighting fixture?

[Superdave]

99% sure--just waiting until the next paycheck. I had thought about getting the 96 watt quad fixture, but didn't think it would fit in the hood.

 

Good call on using nails with glue--only way to put fine wood-working projects together.

 

Does the "storage" component of the hood hinge? I'm still impressed with the matching of the grain on the hood.

[gurnie]

99% sure--just waiting until the next paycheck. I had thought about getting the 96 watt quad fixture, but didn't think it would fit in the hood.

 

Good call on using nails with glue--only way to put fine wood-working projects together.

 

Does the "storage" component of the hood hinge? I'm still impressed with the matching of the grain on the hood.

 

 

No it actually doesn't have a hinge, but it is very easy to take off. like a glove. I'll post some more pics when i get home from work this afternoon (which will be very shortly).

[herranton]

solution:

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php...products_id=306

 

Its much smaller than the original one.

[gurnie]

herranton:

 

Will this fit the plugs made for this set of lights or will I have to cut wires and retro fit them? I really don't know much on how these things work and would be very appreciative if you could explain it to me. Have you attempted this before? How did you do it? Thank-you for your time

 

Superdave;

Here are some more pics

 

 

 

 

 

It fits on tighter than the last image shows. I just have it slightly propped so you can see where the two pieces before "one." these are also older shots, before I could start cleaning up the wood. the green on the bottom of the stand is natural. i forgot what my teacher called it but its suppose to come out really cool once the wood is treated with polyurethane

[Superdave]

Is that European cherry wood then, on account of the greenish streaks?

 

Thanks for the additional pics!

[gurnie]

Not sure actually. That piece was in the scrap bin and we used it because i came up short on wood for the base. I'll ask my teacher when i see him next week (to drill for the lights )

[herranton]

herranton:

 

Will this fit the plugs made for this set of lights or will I have to cut wires and retro fit them? I really don't know much on how these things work and would be very appreciative if you could explain it to me. Have you attempted this before? How did you do it? Thank-you for your time

You would have to wire the endcaps to the new ballast. It really isn't that hard, if you can build a light fixture like the one you have, the wiring will be a piece of cake. If you do decide to go this route, and you cant figure it out on your own, I would be happy to walk you through it.

 

Here is the [approximate] wiring diagram you will be following, The actual diagram will be on the ballast, but it should be identical.

 

I probably shouldn't link this image but...

[gurnie]

You would have to wire the endcaps to the new ballast. It really isn't that hard, if you can build a light fixture like the one you have, the wiring will be a piece of cake. If you do decide to go this route, and you cant figure it out on your own, I would be happy to walk you through it.

 

Here is the [approximate] wiring diagram you will be following, The actual diagram will be on the ballast, but it should be identical.

 

I probably shouldn't link this image but...

 

I'm going to my shop teacher's house tonight to finish the drilling. it sounds like he might offer to help install the lights (since he told me to bring the lighting system). when i have update i'll let you know. right now i am not going to change the ballast because it'll just be a royal pain and cost me more money. Maybe with my tank that i'll make for myself but for the moment i'm really hesitant buying something else adding onto the cost of the tank.

[gurnie]

Ok so update:

 

So i went to my shop teacher's house last night and we drilled a hole for the lights.

 

 

He was then so kind to help me install the lights (and i wouldn't have done it as well without him). They fit perfectly.

 

 

I thought 64 watts on this tank was going to be too much. I don't think its going to be a problem at all!

 

 

 

 

So tonight I have to do another coat of finish on everything. then sand it tomorrow with 320 grit and then another coat of finish. I'd like to have 3-4 coats on this before I give it to my boyfriend's mom on saturday. I have already started to construct the plexi that will cover the lights. I have not glued down any of my dividers in my tanks (for the pump of cheato). That will come soon.

[evilc66]

Not installing the reflectors?

[gurnie]

Nope. I think with 64 watts its a lot for a 5 gallon. and the interior will be treated with polyurethane, which will have a glossy finish. So the wood will reflect some of the light back into the tank, but honestly i don't think the reflectors are needed.

 

That and i would have to cut them down and i honestly don't have the proper equipment to trim down the size of the reflectors (only one will fit without modifying the reflectors). I could use a hand saw to cut down the reflectors, but it's not going to be very safe and it will leave a sharp edge.

 

Do you all think it's necessary?

[evilc66]

Might not be necessary, but there are simple ways to improve things without the reflectors. Simplest way it to paint the inside with a high gloss white paint. Another way would be to line the inside with aluminum flashing tape. I used that on a retro I did for my freshwater planted tank and it worked very well. You have the lights there, might as well get the most out of them.