Plate Coral

[BamainVA]

First question... so please be gentle.

 

Will work on getting some pictures hopefully this weekend...

 

I currently have a 29g biocube with stock lighting (2)x 36w PC bulbs. one actinic, one 10,000k day bulb

I am letting the cycling process takes its time and have been looking at different options for stocking.

 

Each time I go to the LFS I see a nice plate coral that is sitting on top of a piece of PVC, to keep it from wandering I am told. When asking about my current system and if the lighting would be sufficient for the coral, I was told "yes, just have to put it more towards the upper part of the tank in the rocks." I see where it says to place on a sand substrate. I have seen numerous discussions on here where once you get the LFS answer ask it on nano-reef, so here it is....

 

So after all that..the question

 

Is placing a plate coral in the rocks OK and would my lighting be sufficient?

 

I am not in a position to upgrade the lighting at this time so if the rock isn't an option it will stay at the LFS.

 

Thanks for any input.

[bdare]

No rocks.... it goes in the sand. Perioid.

[dopamine]

I didnt think it could physicall move itself.

 

If so, then how? The bottom is all skeleton.

[jennifro]

Well I can't answer your questions but just wanted to say good for you for checking here before listening to your LFS. I have found that mine is pretty good and usually says the same thing as most of the people here but there have been a couple times when they did give me different answers and I felt that it was best to listen to my nano-reef friends! I don't really feel that my LFS is just out to sell. I just think that everyone has their own opinion and not every one can know everything. The problem is I think some LFS are just out to sell and some people who work in them like to pretend they know everything rather then admit they don't! Good luck and have fun!

[KoolFish]

Placement on the sand bed is very important. Keep it away from any rocks as they could tear the tissue when they inflate or move. PC lighting is enough light and it should be fine. Remember to not let any air bubbles get trapped under it when you place it in the tank. Tipping it on it's side as you place it on the sand bed will help any bubbles escape. They also move by inflating and deflating and using the current but they don't move much, maybe an inch occasionaly.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Chris

[BamainVA]

Thanks all...really appreciate the advice.

 

I defintely have some area in the sand and glad to hear the PC should be sufficient.

 

Once again...thank you all.

[Lmecher]

First of all let me say I am glad you are seeking a second opinion because everything you were told at that LFS is incorrect and would surely lead to the demise of the coral. Plate coral (fungia) are relatively hardy and good for beginers. They do have requirements that need to be met. They need brite lighting, with your lighting it would not survive long term. You should wait until you could upgrade. They should NEVER be placed on rocks or course substrate, this would cause abrasion and eventual death. They have very delicate tissue which can be easily damaged, so be careful handling them. They prefer low to moderate flow. They need to be fed meaty foods like mysis a few times a week. They are mobile and can move although very slowly, mine stay put for the most part. They have a very potent sting to any other corals and they touch so should be given space. I hope this helps.

[abe]

umm... i think you guys have it all wrong... first off, the plate is an LPS, which means its lighting requirements are not very high. almost all LPS will be fine under PC's, thats right mecher, PC's. second, plate corals cannot be easily damaged by LR or coarse sand. in the wild, their birthplaces are always on rocks. i have my own spawning site in my tank, and its on LR. LR does not damage tissue. the only thing i can think of that is importan with this coral is to keep it away from other corals. if you want it to grow, feed it mysis. its a simple beginners coral.

[lakshwadeep]

Okay, there's been some misinformation (more like partial truths) in this thread about fungiids (aka plate, mushroom, disk, tongue, and fungus corals). I have an article in the 2007 Marine Fish & Reef USA annual magazine by Scott W. Michael (whom I hope everyone can trust as an "expert"), and so let's understand the basics of fungiids with a "summary" of the article:

 

---Introduction:

The family Fungiidae is one unique family of stony corals that are mobile and can migrate. Tey are ahermatypic (nonreef forming) and distributed across the tropical Indo-Pacific. Fungiids typically consist of a single large polyp and include the largest polyps recorded (largest fungiid is 3 feet in length).

 

---Moving Around:

All juvenile fungiids are attached to the substrate by a stalklike base (called acanthocaulus stage in life). At a certain size, the stalk dissolves, and the polyp begins the free-living phase (anthocyathus stage). When detached, fungiids are able to move over the bottom (if the physical surface allows this). There are two types of movement: active and passive migration. Active migration is usually at night where the polyp uses a series of inflation and deflation and pushes against adjacent surfaces. Passive migrations occurs when the a fungiid is swept by water movement. This can be dangerous if they end up in a reef fissure, but they usually can upright themselves after getting flipped over (larger species cannot do this, however).

 

---Finding a home

 

Fungiids can be found on reef flats, faces, and slopes. They occur on coral rubble and also on sand bottoms. There are some distinguishing characteristics that should help determine what habitat a fungiid coral lives in: the smoothness of the arboreal surface (underside), the shape/size of the septa (the ridges or skeletal walls on the upper or oral surface) and the density of the skeleton.

 

Sharp spines on the septa or large spines on the arboreal surface indicate species that live on hard substrates in shallow water. The spines help with anchoring and against flipping during surge. However, these species can suffer damage if covered by soft substrate because of the difficulty of shedding sand. Examples: Ctenactis echinata and Fungia fungites.

 

Sand/mud-adapted fungiids have a low, broad septa and have either a high profile or flat in shape. F. granulosa can even survive almost total burial under sand and sheds sediment well (and a "speed demon" at a whopping 1.2" per hour!).

 

Thus, species with a higher septa and looking spiny, it may do better in your tank on top of a rubble bottom. Those that are sand dwellers should not be placed on hard surfaces. The ever-popular (yet most difficult to keep) long tentacled plate (Heliofungia actiniformis) will have its tissue abraded by even a "flat" live rock on the underside and often develop infections. Also, sand-sifting or burrowing fish will be unsuitable with non-sand dwelling fungiids since they may not be able to shed sand quickly and then develop buried tissue that dies.

 

---Competition

Fungiids have two options when dealing with other corals: moving away or a more direct strategy: depositing a thick layer of stinging-cell laden mucus when expanding at night on encroaching stony corals. F. fungites was listed as one of the most aggressive species in a list of 33 stony coral species in the Red Sea. they also exude toxins lethal to the larvae and early juveniles of other stony corals. It must be noted that they are not aggressive to other fungiids, but they can be separated if needed by using large rubble to create barriers.

 

---Fungiid foes

Fungiids are sometimes preyed upon by the cushion star (Culcita novaeguineae) and any other large coral-feeding echinoderm. Macroalgae can easily smother fungiids if left to overgrow unchecked. All fish that are potentially harmful to fungiids are too large for nano-reefs, but it pays to mention them for those interested: a certain schooling bannerfish (Heniochus diphreutes), butterflyfish, and larger wrasse that flip things over looking for food.

 

---What's for dinner?

Fungiids rely on 70% of their daily respiratory (not breathing but energy production from food) carbon from their symbiotic algae. The mucus is also eaten to digest organic particles trapped inside. Plankton is captured by tentacles usually extended at night (for H. actiniformis they are up to 20 inches in length that are extended all day). Target feeding is important to fungiids, and adding finely chopped fish/crustacean flesh on the polyp will be sufficient. It may be helpful to use a plastic barrier (berry basket) to shelter the feeding fungiid from hermits and other thieves. Cyclop-eeze squirted from a turkey baster will also be eaten if it sticks to the mucus.

 

---Other aquarium notes

Fungiids are fairly hardy aquarium residents (the possible exception being H. actiniformis). Handle fungiids with great care; never move them when the polyp is expanded (waving your hand over the animal will encourage it to retract). H. actiniformis is especially prone to injury with its large fleshy polyps and long tentacles. Make sure to check any fungiid for tears/abrasions before taking it home. Fungiids, aside from infections caused by improper handling, are fairly disease resistant. Mushroom corals should be kept in a brightly lit aquarium with low to moderate water flow. A common mistake among beginners is placing them on top of live rock. The fungiid eventually ends up falling off the rock, causing tissue damage or even death. Fungiids should always be placed on a flat sand or rubble bottom (depending on the species). The good news is that if they are properly handled and cared for, fungiids can live for decades in a home aquarium.

[abe]

^ that was informative ^

[BamainVA]

lakshwadeep...thank you very much...agree very informative...appreciate the information

[lakshwadeep]

thanks; I might as well post it separately under a new thread for people trying to search for information.

[el fabuloso]

I agree that was very informative. That answered every possible question I have about plate corals. Thanks!

[phiber_optikx]

Although I am sure you have already figured this out, I don't personally believe that 2.4 watts per gallon is sufficient to maintain the coral.

[jeremai]

lakshwadeep, two questions, since you started this thread about plates and I'm too lazy to search:

 

1. Are there Atlantic sand-adapted varieties? Latin names, please.

 

2. Crap, I forgot the second one, lol. But the first was more important anyway.

[Lmecher]

Cool article

[lakshwadeep]

lakshwadeep, two questions, since you started this thread about plates and I'm too lazy to search:

 

1. Are there Atlantic sand-adapted varieties? Latin names, please.

 

2. Crap, I forgot the second one, lol. But the first was more important anyway.

 

1. Ego dicere linguam anglicam non possum. Cycloseris elegans (from panama). Qualifier: "This shows only records from the GBIF network and may not properly represent the total distribution of Fungiidae." Taken from this really, really awesome source that gives a world map of listed member genera (great for biotopes): http://data.gbif.org/species/13148188

 

2. the answer is 42, courtesy of Deep Thought.

[jeremai]

That was awesome, thanks.