nick1912 Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 You know I hope the voltage is the case. Slice the finger and dip. Jk If its voltage then its time to celebrate. If not please trying the opposite and do less water changes remove all chemical filtration and add chaeto. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 well... i've got time. so i guess i can do the one-by-one voltage experiment. it is an easy fix. however, i'm 3-for-3 in confirming that my miniscule voltage is just noise... confirmed with electrical engineers who reef. ... we'll give'er a try. any other opinions on the UV? Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 still not much different. had planned on changing salt anyway... but did my first waterchange with Seachem Aquavitro Salinity salt (about a 15-20% water change). now all chemical filtration is gone. just tank, water, sand, rock and some filter floss in the top of my inTank media basket. back to square one. got my fuge basket made. and this thread is lacking for pics for the past few weeks, so... now just gotta dig us some chaeto. got a few local leads today. also... i've been talkin' about how everything looks great in the other tank. so here's proof: this is a 20L FULL of LR and base rock and 2 huge turbos. i was just using it to cure the LR and seed the base rock, but it's been up for about 2 months now and all the params are great. so what the heck, move the frags over there. there's a Ushio 150w 20k in a Hamilton ReefStar on a Lumatek e-ballast. love the color. my crappy camera just can't do it justice. i think my BC29's becoming a "no Zoa" zone??? bummer... yes, Maddevil... those are ur green zoas... they look great under the MH. i could be becoming a convert??? Link to comment
ulver982 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I'm also beginning to think that my tank is a no zoa zone too. They were great in my 2.5 but I just cannot get them to open up all the way in my 7 gallon. I'm almost at the point where I'm going to get rid of all my zoas and just do a ric garden. I can grow SPS just fine, but can't do zoas. Link to comment
Jerfrog Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Sorry I kind of skipped a few pages from when I posted but, I dont think anyone SHOULDNT be able to keep zoas. They are my favorite coral and Id hate to see people not keep them. It seems like you have done everything you guys can do. Sometimes zoas will open, sometimes they wont. They kinds suck that way. My guess would have been iodine but my iodine was at 0 and i have a full tank of zoas (just started doing a weekly dosing) Sometimes starting over is a good idea if you dont wanna deal with stress. Buts its good to learn why this is happening and how you can solve it. Because it might happen again. Trial and error! Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Sorry I kind of skipped a few pages from when I posted but, I dont think anyone SHOULDNT be able to keep zoas. They are my favorite coral and Id hate to see people not keep them. It seems like you have done everything you guys can do. Sometimes zoas will open, sometimes they wont. They kinds suck that way. My guess would have been iodine but my iodine was at 0 and i have a full tank of zoas (just started doing a weekly dosing) Sometimes starting over is a good idea if you dont wanna deal with stress. Buts its good to learn why this is happening and how you can solve it. Because it might happen again. Trial and error! i hope ur right, Jer... and thanks for the encouragement i'm gonna go back to square one. no chemicals/carbon/etc. just flow and LR and start running the macro. well see if "au natural" works for the zoas. the salt change is a curve ball of a variable to throw in right now... BUT... the zoas look great with just a move fromt he BC29 to the new 20L with the new salt in it? so i keep coming back to -> it's not the zoas, it's not the zoas... it's something in the tank. after i get the fuge goin' (hopefully this weekend) and a few more water changes... i'm going to not touch the tank for a few weeks. if this doesn't work -> i think i'm going to pull the sand bed Link to comment
Maddevil1 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 yes, Maddevil... those are ur green zoas... they look great under the MH.i could be becoming a convert??? Nice! Cant wait to get my MH light up! Link to comment
ulver982 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Any new news with the zoas? As I stated before, I've been having a much similar problem. I gave my gf a couple of my zoa frags to put in her 2.5 with just a 18watt pc, and they are wide open. I'm using LEDs in my minibow, but I highly doubt it's my lighting because I had the same zoas in my 2.5 with the same LEDs and they were just doing just fine. For some reason, they hate my minibow. At least I know they're not diseased or anything, they just don't like something I can't figure out. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Any new news with the zoas? As I stated before, I've been having a much similar problem. I gave my gf a couple of my zoa frags to put in her 2.5 with just a 18watt pc, and they are wide open. I'm using LEDs in my minibow, but I highly doubt it's my lighting because I had the same zoas in my 2.5 with the same LEDs and they were just doing just fine. For some reason, they hate my minibow. At least I know they're not diseased or anything, they just don't like something I can't figure out. nope... no updates... ... at least no good ones... zoas in the BC29 are still closed up tight. even picked up a big chunk of fire-n-ice zoas this weekend. dipped them (tank water and iodine). and they were open for 1 day. now closed. have the fuge up and runnin. all chemical filtration removed. nitrates = 0 nitrites = 0 amonia = 0 dKH = 8 salinity 1.025 tank's headed down hill i fear... mushrooms pissed off. hammer pissed off. frogspawn pissed off. clown with one cloudy eye. ... may put some carbon back in... the underwater fuge lights has caused my tank temps to go haywire. so now i'm trying to get that back into balance. and it seems that my digital thermo is outta whack... had been running 79-80... but the cheapo alcohol thermo says it's actually about 3 degrees above that... so tank could have been running at 83-85 for months. uuuuugggghhhhhhh... big water change tonight Link to comment
GiantBen Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 nope... no updates...... at least no good ones... zoas in the BC29 are still closed up tight. even picked up a big chunk of fire-n-ice zoas this weekend. dipped them (tank water and iodine). and they were open for 1 day. now closed. have the fuge up and runnin. all chemical filtration removed. nitrates = 0 nitrites = 0 amonia = 0 dKH = 8 salinity 1.025 tank's headed down hill i fear... mushrooms pissed off. hammer pissed off. frogspawn pissed off. clown with one cloudy eye. ... may put some carbon back in... the underwater fuge lights has caused my tank temps to go haywire. so now i'm trying to get that back into balance. and it seems that my digital thermo is outta whack... had been running 79-80... but the cheapo alcohol thermo says it's actually about 3 degrees above that... so tank could have been running at 83-85 for months. uuuuugggghhhhhhh... big water change tonight Removing chemi filtration did nothing for my zoas. I only gave it a week, but saw no change in dKh, which I was hoping to raise. I am going to start dosing when I get back from vacation. Link to comment
nick1912 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Did you check for copper? I can't remember where I read it but a guy used some pad that changed a certain color when copper was present. See if you can check into that. All of his zoas were closed and he could not figure it out. His tank I think was like 150 gallons. Link to comment
Weetabix7 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Poly Filters will change to blue in the presence of Copper. What underwater fuge lights are you using? I had planned on getting some for a Pico fuge, but if they raise the temp like that they would be bad for me, esp since my tank is smaller than yours. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Poly Filters will change to blue in the presence of Copper. What underwater fuge lights are you using? I had planned on getting some for a Pico fuge, but if they raise the temp like that they would be bad for me, esp since my tank is smaller than yours. it's the inTank underwater fuge lights (here) now i may be jumping the gun... could also be over-reacting to my digital vs. alcohol vs. what-the-heck-temp-is-my-tank issues. the two 5 watt lights running 24 hrs x 2 days did raise my tank's temp by about 1.5 degrees Did you check for copper? I can't remember where I read it but a guy used some pad that changed a certain color when copper was present. See if you can check into that. All of his zoas were closed and he could not figure it out. His tank I think was like 150 gallons. will see if i can drum up a copper test kit. thanks. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Did you check for copper? IF it indeed is copper... how do i remove it??? is there a filter media??? Link to comment
Weetabix7 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 it it indeed is copper...how do i remove it??? is there a filter media??? Poly-filter by Poly Bio-Marine will remove it. Link to comment
nick1912 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Sorry thought you found out since I read it indeed is copper. Guess you meant if it indeed is... Sorry. Edit Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Sorry thought you found out since I read it indeed is copper. Guess you meant if it indeed is... Sorry. Edit sorry... thanks Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 well... the GF kindly picked up an API Copper test kit for me while i was at work today. ...drumroll... not a trace of Copper to be seen. absolutely no color change. perfectly clear and colorless. so there goes that idea working late again tomorrow. so she's gonna pick up some of that Poly Filter stuff Weet recommended. we'll give that a go anyway. at least if it's taking something out of the water -> it will at least change color and let me know what it's removing. i like that... 50% water change done also. meh... this is getting very, very frustrating. hobbies are supposed to be fun. this sux! oh, yeah... running some SeaGel now. got some diatoms goin' now after adding the DIY fuge basket. suck out the silicates from the plastic. Link to comment
GiantBen Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Try going open top and put the halide over the tank for a bit. I am really skeptical about the stock lights. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Try going open top and put the halide over the tank for a bit. I am really skeptical about the stock lights. yeah, could be... have UVL PCRs on order from Nanocustoms/Nanotuners. should be here around end of the month (fingers crossed). this should gimme a 50%-ish increase in PAR based on the numbers. if the test has to be MH... you wanna gimme a 250w lumenmax elite pendant??? Link to comment
Dani3d Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 What else is in there? Maybe there is some other coral producing toxin? Or some algae producing toxin? Since when you are transfering those zoa in another tank they reopen, I would suspect something in your water/tank poisoning or bothering them. Some leather coral, sponge or many other corals can start chimical warfare in the tank. I would do a good water change and definitly add LOTS of carbon. I don't think they are sick with fungus or they would still be sick in the new tank. Something is really wrong with the water in your old aquarium, that's obvious. I don't think the light could be the issue as zoanthids can adapt easily to many different type of light. YOu said the new aquarium has a different salt? why not do a few water change with the new salt and see if that help? Maybe your old salt if bad? Obviously your zoanthids are not sick, that's got to be something in the water. nope... no updates...... at least no good ones... zoas in the BC29 are still closed up tight. even picked up a big chunk of fire-n-ice zoas this weekend. dipped them (tank water and iodine). and they were open for 1 day. now closed. have the fuge up and runnin. all chemical filtration removed. nitrates = 0 nitrites = 0 amonia = 0 dKH = 8 salinity 1.025 tank's headed down hill i fear... mushrooms pissed off. hammer pissed off. frogspawn pissed off. clown with one cloudy eye. ... may put some carbon back in... the underwater fuge lights has caused my tank temps to go haywire. so now i'm trying to get that back into balance. and it seems that my digital thermo is outta whack... had been running 79-80... but the cheapo alcohol thermo says it's actually about 3 degrees above that... so tank could have been running at 83-85 for months. uuuuugggghhhhhhh... big water change tonight Link to comment
marinekeeper Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 i have the same problem, tried the majority of what you did. Everything looks great except my zoas. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 What else is in there? Maybe there is some other coral producing toxin? Or some algae producing toxin? Since when you are transfering those zoa in another tank they reopen, I would suspect something in your water/tank poisoning or bothering them. Some leather coral, sponge or many other corals can start chimical warfare in the tank. I would do a good water change and definitly add LOTS of carbon. I don't think they are sick with fungus or they would still be sick in the new tank. Something is really wrong with the water in your old aquarium, that's obvious. I don't think the light could be the issue as zoanthids can adapt easily to many different type of light. YOu said the new aquarium has a different salt? why not do a few water change with the new salt and see if that help? Maybe your old salt if bad? Obviously your zoanthids are not sick, that's got to be something in the water. thanks for the insight... this is the same thing i've been thinking... it's not the zoa's -> it's the tank i am using the new salt for the last 2 water changes. we'll see how things look in a few days. Link to comment
LogansRunRx Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 i have the same problem, tried the majority of what you did. Everything looks great except my zoas. yep... ur zoas in the recent pics look just like mine when all this started. the zoas still in the BC29 are now closed up tight though. started with just not extending their skirts and progressed. move to new tank = fine. still don't know what happend. read ur thread, and you've got a lot of variables going on just prior to current issues (lighting, salt, etc). mine just <poof> happened -> stock lighting, same salt, same everything... tag along. we'll see if i can figure this out??? Link to comment
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